Triggerbender

I found this place before the above link, hope it is the same stuff. I ordered some, know more later. http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/index.php/h...fluorescent-rod

For small touch up jobs I have had good success with Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Paste. Clean ALL oil off surfaces rub in with a clean nylon toothbrush until you get an even color. Was told the toothbrush trick by an old timer, said cloth, Q-tips, and alot of other things you would apply with have some natural oil in them that hampers the bluing action of the chemicals. Don't know for sure but the guy never lied to me before . So I grind err in with the brush and get better result than the other ways I tried. As always YMMV.

I am looking to replace the rods in my sights as I want to change the colors. The originals are melted on each end to hold them in. What is the best way to duplicate this without screwing them up so they don't end up a gob of goo that don't transmit the light? Thanks for any tips, tricks and info.

As is Kings hardball or MGW or combo of both. Narrow tenon front. Rear sight cut same as a Colt Government. As far as machine work, anything that can be done to a Colt Government slide would be the same.

None at all unless it does not fit the contour of you bbl. or comp set up. Some like a more seamless look with peel washer and you also have more fore/aft wiggle room with the comp with a peel.

If you are using the "lock nut" install the comp where you want it, hold it in place and turn the lock nut back into the comp to hold (lock) it in place. Unless you got real lucky or machine the bbl or comp to clock properly you will always have a gap between the bbl. shoulder and lock nut with this system. A peel washer would serve no purpose other than cosmetic to cover threads or fill gap. I have never tried to put A Miculek on without the lock nut. There would be one big stack of peel washers to fill in the space. IMHO Miculek should thread their comps a little deeper so they did not bottom out so early and or redesign to eliminate the lock nut and install with a crush washer or peel washer like everyone else.

I found some clamps to change my POI when tight, could watch them spread the barrel and tube when clamping. One day I decided to contour the clamp to the exact shape and spacing of my bbl and tube no more spread or POI change. Then they moved under recoil. Fix was sliding a small section of bicycle inner tube on the mag tube and barrel (not vent ribbed) clamp as usual no more movement or POI change.

You did not say what clay sport you were starting her in. Depending on the size of your daughter, sub gauge tubes will make the gun pretty heavy, the last set I bought were around $400 per gauge. 410 is an unforgiving round for a beginner, 28ga. is about the most expensive round for skeet or sporting clays. A 20ga. automatic like a 1100 Remington fit to her (youth model maybe) would be recoil friendly and will break any properly pointed bird. My late shooting buddy was BAD-A$$ with a 20ga., he could break any skeet or sporting clay thrown with his "racers" 3/4 lead in a 20ga. Trap is a 12ga. sport.

Sorry for the loss to you and your club. I know your pain too well. Godspeed Sir!

Could not figure out how to edit first post to add a link to pics of the man or add pics to my first post. Sorry. From the club website. This is where they will be for the month I think? Sorry, if this is not appropriate please delete. http://www.bluewatersportsmansassociation.com/

A true gentleman, last of the breed and a man I was proud to call my friend. A guy that always had a big smile and "Hey, how ya doin _______?" to anyone he knew and really did want to know how you were. Korean War Veteran with the Air Force. Avid highpower shooter for many many years. Was evident by his ability with a rifle. Bullseye and three gun shooter at our club until a few months ago. A major Wealth of knowledge on shooting and guns that he would willingly share with anyone with a true interest. A great and well spoken ambassador to the shooting sports. Loved to watch this guy at 78yrs. young shoot our club 3gun matches. He just came to have fun and we did! Slow, steady and deadly with an M1 carbine I think he paid like $65 for from the CMP away back, a single stack 1911 9mm he built himself and a Chinese shotgun he picked up someplace cheap he dubbed "Onehunglow". He did not want to mess up his good Model 12. You know the old joke about 2 bulls at the top of the hill and the young bull says "lets run down there and do some of those cows" and the old bull says" lets just walk down and do em all". Kind of fitting to our situation. He will be missed by many and by me a bunch. I wish he was still here but am glad he is with his wife and daughter in a better place.......... GOD SPEED, SIR!

Swap your stock from gun to gun and see if the length changes at all. If they fit each other as far as tube dia. and the length of pull does not change on either weapon. (Smith still short) Order a Bushmaster buffer tube only and use all other parts you already have. Mil spec tube O.D. is 1.140in and usually angle cut at butt, Commercial tube is 1.170in and usually longer than mil-spec and square cut at butt. Mil spec tube+comm stock= way loose stock. Comm tube + milsec stock= nogo.

Nope, no problem at all. All lower receivers have the same thread. The comm spec tube O.D. where the stock itself slides back and forth is 1.170in. The milspec is 1.140in. So if you use a comm stock + milspec tube = way loose stock and milspec stock + comm tube = no-go.

Check this out http://www.maxicon.com/guns/optics/one_pie...iece_mounts.htm For reference if you get a good cheek weld with irons, an Armalite mount gets a scope at the same height.

Shot 1000's of both and are good to go. In my rifles PMC has been more accurate. UMMV. The Federal brass is less desirable for reloading unless you get lucky and you get Lake City brass, they are known to use both, I never got LC in any I ordered. If those are shipped prices it as about as good as it gets right now.

Shot one of our local club matches with clays painted like camo making them harder to see and also had golf balls set on tees scattered around to tip toe through. Also we have had a Jungle Run with trip wires to set off small kabooms. One shooter at a time, cold with no idea what or where the targets were. You could not break a 180 and if you passed them they were misses. This was a side shoot deal that you had to shoot up all the targets that were planted all around a trail cut though the woods and get to the end of the stage before you ran out of a preset time. Nobody made it through without getting blown up or timing out, 1 guy came real close though. The slow and careful timed out and the fast loading on the run got blown up.

They are once fired Remington brass. I don't think they are annealed or least not much, they are not discolored around the neck from heat as some others brands I have seen.

I hope the sparks are coming out the bbl. Receiver? I have had "sparks" come out of my guns, usually with a slower burning power that does not get used up pushing the bullet out of the bbl. and is still burning in the air. Look in your bbl. when you are done shooting sometimes there will be unburned flakes of powder in it. I have wondered if it is lead and wax in the mix, since lead does make way more smoke than jacketed. Power Pistol comes to mind in a 4in. 45acp.

What is your percent of split necks on your reloads? I am still new to reloading rifle (.223/5.56) and have noticed I get 1 or 2 split case necks per 100 on my reloads, these are once fired Remington brass. This is a middle of the road load, 55gr. Hornady bullet with TAC at about 3000fps using the Sierra data with no other signs of pressure. The bbl. is an LMT and should be of decent quality. TIA for any light shed on this subject.

Move the rear sight the same direction you want the bullet to go on the target.

Sounds like disconnector click, it is annoying to me also. Did you try swapping back to your original disconnector? Might try that. You can polish your disconnector not changing it's dimension. You can take a pocket screw driver and grind it to the width of your disconnector slot in your slide, cut a strip of 600 or finer W/D sandpaper (depending on how rough the channel is in your slide) to the width of your ground tip, wrap the sandpaper over the tip of the driver and SMOOTH the disco channel in the slide with a drop of oil and your tool. Don't get in there and carve it out or anything radical just smooth and polish. Check to see how much for and aft movement your disco has in its bore in the frame. If too much it can be corrected by staking the frame if you are brave enough. Try the top 2 first. Worked for me. As always YMMV, Good Luck.

Trigger, I wish that you were somewhere within 100-miles of me, I'd like to bring my press and have you set it up correctly for me. It's my first progressive and I've only got the basic mechanical skills of a retired certified aircraft and powerplant mechanic. I'm use to things being +/- .001 and have found this simple press very daunting. Target 1.250 o.a.l. ranging 1.245 to 1.255 to be clear on what I get. I struggled for a while until I found out most of the problem for me was the variation in the bullets themselves and found the same thing and worse with bulk .223 when I started to reload for rifle. I had a good local caster for my pistol but he just gave it up so I will be back to square 1 when I use up what I have. You can forget about that +/- .001, I could not get there spent 25yrs as wrench myself and I know how you think.

I have one of the older Pro Diamond scopes made in the Philippines and works great and wanted another so I ordered one and was sent a completely different scope that was made in China Labeled Pro Diamond Master Series. Crapped out on the second outing. Packed it up sent it to the address in GA. as the paper work instructed for repair, 48hr. turn around promised in the paper work, waited and waited 3rd week finally called to see where the replacement was. They moved to another state and just got it that day and I was told I should have called to see where they were before I sent it, WTF I said NO PROBLEM won't happen again. No more Simmons. The newer model is not as clear, not as bright, adj. not smooth, the Diamond on the reticle is larger, and IMHO ugly, also not as compact. Not the same as the original in anyway other than name and power. Model 7791D P.N. 899608 is the older model made in the Philippines. If you can find one it is GTG. Model 517791 is the newer model made in China. Pass, Get the Weaver.

Same load, same machine, 20,000 rounds or so no issues with 1.250 O.A.L. +/- .005 . Be sure you have the right bullet nose insert in your seating die (best contour for your bullet tip) and watch for wax build up from the bullet lube in your dies.

Sorry for your loss. Godspeed Sir! I know your pain well, time helps and now I think about my Grandpa remembering certain things and I hear his laugh in my head, I get this stupid grin and can't wipe it off my face.