Loves2Shoot

Here is is from NROI.org 17) I have an approved Production Division gun, and the manufacturer now offers a cool mag-release button on their “custom shop” versions of that gun. Can I use that mag-release button, since it is “an OEM part”? ANSWER: It depends. An external part which extends only the length of the magazine-release button is specifically allowed in section 21.6 of the 2009 interpretation, whether the part is OEM or aftermarket. If the part provides a larger surface area (a big head, a button, a paddle, etc) or is different than the original part in any dimension other than length, the part is only permitted if it is an OEM part available on an approved model of gun. Note that an internal modification to a magazine-release mechanism which results in shifting the magazine-release laterally (i.e., making the part stick out further on one side of the gun) would be considered an “internal modification”, and is allowed. Also note that parts from “custom shop” guns are only considered “OEM parts” if the “custom shop” model is on the NROI list of approved guns. If NROI has not certified the “custom shop” gun for USPSA Production Division, using a custom-shop part may be an “external modification”, resulting in a “new/unapproved model” which would be illegal for USPSA Production Division. Contact NROI for an official ruling before switching to the new part.

TGO uses one and they also got the plastic aftermarket trigger approved and they have been used in EVERY major since the XD came out and been used by Rob. Look in the NROI rulings (or call them) and they will verify what you have already been told. Amidon is pretty good at answering messages. PS. You can buy an XD or XDM with the plastic trigger w/ over-travel stop and magazine release, their custom shop can give you the part number.

Yes, just visit our website, fill out the work order form and send the bolt in.

When carbon builds up on the frame where the trigger bar rubs on it to reset you will get the problems you described. The quickest way to get any XD/XDM related issue resolved is to give the shop a call at 541-480-5546.

http://shop.springerprecision.com/product.sc?productId=140&categoryId=12 This will make installation of a new pin a LOT easier.

http://shop.springerprecision.com/product.sc?productId=167&categoryId=5 We make a 1.9 oz insert system. There is a big difference between heavy enough and too heavy when it comes to starting and stopping the pistol (ie transitions) so the weight you prefer will have a lot to do with how strong you are and how sensitive to recoil you are. A heavy gun will be softer, but takes more effort to start and stop.

We stock a lot of XD/XDM magazines but it looks like we were robbed over the last week. Good thing we had a big order in before the most recent craziness. I want to see the NIC numbers for the last week.

Read my nickname. You can catch me once, but not twice. It is hard on people who rely on being able to buy suplies to run their business, and yes it will put people out of business if it lasts long, but can you really blame people trying to secure arms and ammo. I hope this wakes people up about the importance of it everyday.

You can send them to us.

KG make a pretty good lead remover.

It is made to factory specifications, so it should not be an issue in Production as custom finishes are ok.

That is one of the reason I made these.

All the other pistol sports group the XD/XDm, Glock and M&P together. The Classifier time discrepency make no sense, since there is nowhere ten seconds can be gained due to equiptment differences at the Master level.

They must come off for Ionbond coatings.

Be carefully with crimping, you need to use what is suggested. If the bell is not sufficient or the right seating cone is not used, you can get wacky bullet seating. Please have someone who is familiar with reloading inspect your rounds. I once replaced 3 barrels in one pistol because the gentleman was learning to reload on his own. Once he brought his rounds in for me to look at, it was obvious why he was blowing up barrels, so it is worth the time to make sure you are doing thing properly.

Bad rounds, with lead, make sure they are nut curling the lead when you seat the bullet. If the round got stuck in the chamber, odds are they dind't fully seat, and that is why they didn't fire.

You know that great trigger that 1911's have? They have them because they are already cocked (energized to fire), and most have a small ledge that holds the hammer back. People mistakenly believe that the only safety in a Glock is that little tab on the trigger. While it is the interface with the shooter, it merely functions to keep the trigger (bar) in the forward position. This position means that: 1. The striker isn't fully energized. 2. The safety plunger has not been re-positioned to allow the striker to travel forward and contact the primer. 3. The "sear" surface is locked, as the safety tab wing on the trigger bar has not traveled past the ledge that allows it to drop...which allows the sear to release. #1 is pure fantasy. In a stock Glock, it has plenty of energy to set of a round WITHOUT pulling the trigger if the safety plunger is removed. Well then, that isn't a stock Glock, is it? Also, see #2. Also, see #3. No, but that is not what I was refering to. There is incorrect information repeated often that the Glock is "half cocked" unless you pull the trigger and full load the striker spring. This is simply false. Anyone who has had a Glock slip the trigger bar sear knows it isn't that hard to make them go more than one round with one trigger pull. I fixed one such case last summer on a bone stock Glock.

You know that great trigger that 1911's have? They have them because they are already cocked (energized to fire), and most have a small ledge that holds the hammer back. People mistakenly believe that the only safety in a Glock is that little tab on the trigger. While it is the interface with the shooter, it merely functions to keep the trigger (bar) in the forward position. This position means that: 1. The striker isn't fully energized. 2. The safety plunger has not been re-positioned to allow the striker to travel forward and contact the primer. 3. The "sear" surface is locked, as the safety tab wing on the trigger bar has not traveled past the ledge that allows it to drop...which allows the sear to release. #1 is pure fantasy. In a stock Glock, it has plenty of energy to set of a round WITHOUT pulling the trigger if the safety plunger is removed.

No, because the one we make can be fit to be used in the stock configuration.

A couple weeks ago I scrapped a few hundred pounds of brass for $1.80 a pound, so at scrap rate you have $19,800 worth there. Sure would be worth a trip to AL.

A couple weeks ago I scrapped a few hundred pounds of barss for $1.80 a pound, so at scrap rate you have $19,800 worth there. Sure would be worth a trip to AL.

That is why I made this. You could remove it or grind off the tab if you want, the gun will still work.

I've installed a few thousand pair... They are a good sight.

That is why we make trigger bars and slide releases from high quality stainless steel and don't use or modify the stock trigger bars and don't take the cheap route on our trigger jobs. SA does a great job replacing things that break.

Yes, Dawson makes adjustable sights for the M&P.