Loves2Shoot

Waiting times (especially in the winter months) have been very long, but they added a new facility early this year, so they have dropped very recently. The cost is about 25% more than Metaloy HC.

It will work with Slide Glide.

Link to info and work order form w/ pricing 6-8 weeks is typical. We are heading out of the super duper busy coating season, so lead times will fall back into these time frames.

Not too hard if you know where to look. We've had them in stock since they were released.

That is what we have seen. I know before we started using it, they did have some issues, but I know they have made changes in the recent past to improve performance, and I have only seen adhesion issues a few times.

I think you are missing a 0. I think a lot of the mixed reviews come from choice of application, and a lot of people assuming IonBond is a coating and not a coating company. IonBond has many many coatings and not all of them perform as well as their DimaondBLACK product. They OEM coat for a lot of major manufacturers and not all of them choose their best coating (cost would be my guess) but other lesser performing products. Locally, there is a IonBond facility that coats the parts we make and though it is much better than a lot of options, it is NOT to the performance level of DiamondBLACK. If the metal will wear due to disparities in hardness or whatever, the coating can only protect a part for so long, that is why plating's appear to wear so long. The fact is they are thick and if you made them as thin as the ultra thin PVD coatings, the wear would show quickly. PVD coatings aren't magic though, you need to know what applications are appropriate, and if you have a soft substrate, it will improve the performance, but not prevent all wear. That is why I don't suggest putting it on aluminum, when hard anodizing is more appropriate.

New gun or decent quality metal of any age gun. The quality of the substrate has more to do than the age.

Better than a stock trigger in a real one.

IonBond's DLC is only 4 microns, so actual "flakes" are very rare. I say rare in that we've prepped parts for coating about every day for the last 4 years and only seen it happen a few times. There are other DLC coatings that are done differently and at higher temperatures, and they have different coating properties also.

The only way for it to flake is if is was not cleaned properly prior to coating, it is applied to a poor quality metal or there was a massive coating failure. Nitro is inexpensive and that appeals to a lot of people.

Why don't you just tilt your head to your strong eye? I can shoot either eye right handed and do not notice a difference on which one I use, but both eye see ok. I made GM shooting with the whole left lens taped over with black tape.

I had an experienced shooter try to do this to me and it was a total waste of effort for me. Putting a blurry dot on your off eye worked fine and if you are not inclined already to be ambidextrous, much easier and faster IMO. I use a sandblaster to lightly blast the spot I need a blinder on for my left eye.

Since they have oil under the sight, I don't think heating is involved but those Crotatians can put in a set of sights

I'm not sure, the SA folks aren't real big on sharing what they are up to. Have a great match!

We have changed XD/XDM sights about every day for the last 4-5 years, and even with the experience that comes with removing that many sights, there are still days that I go over to the mill and remove them that way. If it seems super tight, it just might be.

Oh, if only that were true, you don't want to know how many jacked up slides we've seen from people who did not have you basic ability, let alone the ones from people who can't use a punch either. The punch that comes in the package is for installation, not removal. Dawson has a video on their youtube channel that will work for the average install IF you can hold the slide tightly. I only suggest using a hardened steel punch for sight removal. Some can be a bit stubborn.

fixed

Split time alone has no value. Bullet placement is a key component in scoring well, as well as the time it takes to get to the next target. Generally fastsplitters will have slow transitions because they aren't seeing both shots, and just hammering the trigger and hoping for the best. The top shooters will see the shots and get the shots to the next target in the time it takes them to see the shots, which makes for a lower time to shoot an array of targets. I'm one who spent many tends of thousands of rounds trying to be a fastsplitter, and now I try hard to not do it when I want to shoot a good match. Though there are times when it does come in handy, but they are few and far between in a well designed stage. Here is a video example of a good time to have it and a bad time in the same match. 3:00 in I fired 5 or so shots when I need two and and I had all the hits on the target and I only needed 2, but I lost control and puked some bullets and lost the stage by one extra shot, even through it wasn't slow. 4:35 I saw the first shots, but knew I had to go fast or wait for it to go around the no shoot which would be slow (I think we had to have 5 hits on the target) and the last were just gas down. I would much rather have every shot accurate and in the right spot than have sub .15 splits on any target. You can see .10-15 with an open gun, but I don't know that it is possible for many folks to actually see sub .15 with irons consistently.

They added parts that hold down the sear so that you don't have to pull the trigger to remove the slide. Apparently someone at SA thought that was a big issue with users not being able able to safely take the gun apart. From the other side of the counter: Can you restore this 1911 that my dad found on the beach at Iwo Jima during the war? Me - No sir, we do not fix toys (it was a replica 1911 die cast pistol that apparently was some sort of plastic pellet toy.) Ps, He had already paid to have it sandblasted so it could be refinished.

GM's are capable of using the appropriate split for the shot and the acceptable scoring hit they want. The B Class shooter will generally shoot some of the fastest splits on targets on a stage, but generally that is because they don't know what the proper split for them on the particular target is.

Especially since the guy filming the riding was his wife (my mom.) I talked to my nephew more today and he said he thought he has killed him at first and he was totally freaking out. He actually cracked the helmet on the skid plate of his bike. I talked with dad today and he said he is feeling great (I think the drugs were talking) but he escaped with just some serious bruising and doesn't recall a thing, so in his words, "It wasn't that bad." "Not bad" to him is a very relative thing though, as he spent a lot of years in his younger years breaking his body on cross country moto racing before bike became so plush. Needless to say, with a dad like him, whining was not put up with growing up. I really appreciate that now.

This is just plain lucky he walked away, but my nephew who is a MX racer takes Grandpa off his 4 wheeler this weekend, but the old man walks away after a near decapitation. 2:06 into the video it is a wow moment.

I think you should shoot the gun stock. You don't need a gun that can perform better, just practice more, so spend the money on bullets, even if your gun doesn't want to do what you want it to you and you have no idea how to practice properly. You'll never need accuracy on for IPSC type shooting, as it is all just hosing targets anyway. You aren't good enough to make that partial shot you want to anyway that other folks won't have the balls to take. Glock Perfection isn't just a motto, and you can not possibly improve on perfection. Beside if you replace you barrel to a match barrel, the gun will no longer be reliable enough for competition shooting. There, that is the standard internet forum advise in a nutshell on barrel replacement. I've used a lot of Barsto barrels, and they are pretty good when properly fit (and contrary to internet lore, they will actually run reliably also.) The only use I have for drop in barrels is for suppressors, as the fit is more important than the brand if you can get a properly over-sized barrel to fit. Glocks are like any other millions produced item, so keep that in mind. Many folks get a good one and don't realize that of the millions of others produced, there might be some that aren't to the same standard.

Excellent way to kill a thread!

Maybe I'm just stirring the pot, but the ATF is huge on intent, and from what the letter says "FOR RESALE", if you made the ammo with the intent to sell it, you need a license, if not (ie you intended to use it yourself, but no longer had a use for it or had more than you needed,) the sale would not be looked at in the same manner. I have yet to see the BATF say you do not need a license to do anything, as I think they want the right to "get" anyone they choose to. I draw this conclusion from my direct conversations with my ATF agent and his response about straw purchases. If you buy a gun with the intent to resell the item and you "intend" to sell the item for profit, then you need an FFL, if not, you just need a background check and fill out their forms. This is why the BATF firearm transfer stuff is just a bunch of crap. You can go into a store in this state, buy a gun, then immediately turn around and sell the gun to anyone that you do not know is a felon (there is no requirement to ask) and that is A OK if your "intent" when you bought the gun was to keep it for yourself. There is no requirement to record the transaction either. If you buy it with the "intent" to sell to someone so they do not have to do the transaction with the FFL, then you are breaking the law. You can also buy a firearm and "gift" it to someone, again intent is the ONLY factor on it being legal or not if the person is not known to be a felon to you.