Shay1911

Here ya go: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...l=limited+minor http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...l=limited+minor http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...l=limited+minor http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...l=limited+minor There are also a few threads on this subject for Single Stack minor. Later, Chuck Thanks, I found the discussion on 9mm major for limited interesting. I'll stick with .40 major, thanks.

Alright, I guess my searching skills are not up to par, because I couldnt find any of those discussions... In searching major matches, I see that Taran, for example, gets forced into minor scoring sometimes and still does well. Henning was also shooting minor for a while. Off balance shooting - one leg as you exit a box for example. I, for one, feel that you need a more solid base to shoot a major caliber than a minor caliber. I am not saying that minor is the way to go to win Nationals, I am no where near that level of shooting.

Let's assume one consistently shoots A's. One is a C-B shooter that almost always gets 95%-97% of points available per match. One is starting to work on speed and movement, and can, usually, place in the middle of the B pack. When one does shoot Limited minor, one places at the exact same place. If one stays with Limited major, one has: - better scoring - coolness factor If one moves to Limited minor, one has: - higher capacity, 23 round mags - cheaper ammo - faster, flatter shooting - no difference in scoring steel - lighter gun - easier to be off balance while shooting - a miss is a miss, an A is an A, steel is steel I am not sure if Limited minor is really faster, never did a timed test, but in theory, it sounds good. Any opinions?

dohboy, I highly recommend running 115's or 124's in the SP01. Light slight, heavy frame, much faster cycle. You will notice that they will be more snappy, but a lot more accurate and the front sight will return much faster. With the 115's, it feels as if the front sight doesnt move at all. I found the 147's to be very inaccurate at 25 yards plus. Also, change your mag springs to the +10%. That will solve most reliability problems.

If I remember correctly, it is closer to the Tanfoglio than to CZ. That means different size pins and other small details.

I tried epoxy, but felt it added too much weight to the gun...

Yep.

I have changed all my mag brakes to the stainless steel one from Angus. It is only $10, mags drop free and no risk of breaking the mag brake. It did happen to Angus in a match, the flimsy mag brake crumbled, that's why he offers the stainless steel ones.

Some of the Witness barrels will fit in as well with some adjustments.

I think BarSto makes a run every once in a while, but hard to find. The stock CZ barrel is excellent. The SP01 is a match barrel, very heavy with a tight chamber. Can I ask why you are looking for an aftermarket one?

If I may add... Decockers are a pain in the butt to work on. The sear cage needs to be taken apart inside the gun and then on assembly takes slave pins and so on. Most gun smiths hate working on them. I highly recommend the safety version, not the decocker version. The Shadow is a great deal, well built for a reasonable price. I would recommend letting Angus or Matt clean it up for you. I know Angus has the best prices on CZ's. Avoid the extra shipping costs and just order from him.

Ok, I ran a little experiment... Lee sizer station one, U die station two, LFCD station five. Brass is police range glocked. Out of 100, about 10 did not pass my Lyman case gauge. Inside diameter of Lyman case gauge is 0.424. Outside diameter of glocked ring on bottom of rounds that failed .4245-.425. Inside diameter of chamber, CZ Tactical Sport, .427. In other words, none of the ones that didnt pass the case gauge would cause a FTF, they all pass the barrel chamber test.

The easier way, for me, is to use a slave pin. A short pin that just holds the spring in place inside the trigger. Then when you drive the trigger pin through, the spring doesnt move.

A couple of additional differences that I noticed: Tanfoglio uses lesser steel on their sears and hammers, they are porous and rough. They can be replaced with EGW parts. CZ uses a 1911 style mainspring that runs all the way down the backstrap. Some of the newer Tanfoglios use a much shorter spring that hides in the frame itself, making it a real pain to replace or adjust the weight of the spring. Tanfoglio has really nice safeties, much wider and longer. For me, the CZ's have a tighter hammer mechanism, much crisper. Unless you get the competition models, they will both need a trigger job and parts replaced.

1.09 for the CZ SP01 with Precision 147's. Otherwise, the bullet gets stuck in the rifling. I did not like them at all.

The only thing I can think of is that the extra 2mm makes the round, the brass, too long. In other words, the chamber is 19mm long and you are inserting a 21mm piece into it. Slam that into battery with the slide and you have a bulge around the rim. http://www.czub.cz/index.php?p=32&idp=...208〈=en I think you may have to lengthen your chamber to fit the 9X21 since the gun is built for 9X19. That is the only thing I can think of that will cause a bulge around the rim. Added: I just measured my chamber and it is 18mm from barrel hood till end of chamber.

al, I highly recommend that you deal with the US CZ, www.czusa.com. Call and ask for Mike or CJ, two great guys. They wont just send you one spring, they will send you out spares as well, just in case. Everytime I have had a problem, I called them up and they ship me spare parts, sometimes without any charge. Let me know if I can help, Shay

Hey Stefano, Can you please describe exactly what kind of jam you are having? Round stuck on feed ramp not going into battery? Round fully inside chamber but wont go all the way in? Can you describe the ammo you are using? If you can take pictures it would be great. No worries, we have 8 of these guns operating at perfectly here. I am sure we can solve this. Thanks, Shay

The stainless steel mag brake from Angus is great, I use it on all my guns.

Full auto I have played with it before I leave it as it is now. Also, an overtravel stop on the trigger helps a lot. Making the trigger pull too light and cranking on the over travel stop can also make you go full auto. http://czcustom.com/catalog/product_info.p...18a8afbd95bb2d0 I stay on the conservative side on the reset and over travel. I want a solid, crisp and reliable trigger pull that you can take to a match without a DQ

Hello Stefano, Glad to hear you are happy The Angus hammer makes a world of difference. What do you mean by "how to reduce the reset-excursion of the trigger" ? Do you still have the firing pin block in it or did your Shadow come without one? Do you have an over travel adjustment on your trigger?

CZ with pics: http://czechpistols82792.yuku.com/topic/14...ts-of-pics.html

When the slide moves back, the case held by the extractor hits the ejector. The ejector then flips the case out of the opening. If the "flip" is not consistent, you will get inconsistent flight pattern. In my CZ, I have to shorten the ejector a bit and angle it down and out. This allows the case to hit the case a bit later when the ejection port is fully open and the new angle makes the flight pattern consistent. Hope this helps...

Very few people know as much about these CZ's as Stuart does. You picked up the ultimate setup, imho.

Hey Stefano, Make sure they are even thickness, more important. Take it down to .14 first, test your trigger pull. .11 is in order to shorten up the double action. The hammer will not go all the way back, only half way, which makes the double action stroke much shorter.