MemphisMechanic

I only asked because I tried yesterday and couldn't duplicate with my Stock 3. Perhaps, as others mentioned, the non-EGD pads don't allow it to rise far enough. https://www.cdnnsports.com/eaa-witness-large-frame-9mm-17rd-afc-magazine-oe.html That's the mag / basepad I currently have. Keep us posted on what fixes this!

Keep in mind too that you can sand down the thick ones if you want, so that they're closer to the middle of your adjustment travel. To run M&P mags in the CR Speed pouches I just sand down the Glock or CZ polymer inserts, for example.

Here's my video from the match. (First person view is a pair of Pivothead glasses)

If you insert the mag with a normal/moderate amount of force and thumb the slide stop (instead of driving it home with the hope of the slide auto-forwarding) does the gun function 100%? I'm not saying you should change the way you handle your gun because I'm a firm believer in making your equipment suit you, I'm just curious how easily this happens.

Looks like this was posted twice. 35 replies in his original thread: http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/240382-when-should-you-use-and-undersize-sizing-die/

I used to be like that, even though I started with the Glock platform. When I began shooting an indoor match every Tuesday, and either live-fire practice or a second match on Saturday, that OCD habit calmed down rather quickly. Eight cleanings a month? Nah. (Cleaning a gun is a slightly zenlike relaxing thing to do, but not when you're getting home at 11:00pm after having a beer following the indoor match, and work is early the next morning.) Fast forward four years and I've learned it runs just fine with a cleaning every wheneverIfeellikeit.

I may disagree with the others - if there's nothing there that you can feel by touch, that might be okay. But that's absolutely the most crimp I'd want to use on any bullet type, including FMJs. We don't want any deformation or inadvertent resizing on the surfaces of the bullet that engage the rifling. As long as they case gauge or chamber check, you're crimping enough. But it's also likely that most reloaders are crimping too much. And you might be - try a bit less and see how it looks. (as the others said, your bullet drops into the hammerhead of the puller then bounces back up into the case mouth and your find that mark on it. Ignore those.)

And save your money on the Xtreme firing pin. Your gun comes with one identical in weight and length. The IPSC just need a slicker finish since they cannot polish their internals. If you're swapping to the Titan hammer, might as well toss a BOLO in for sure. Patriot Defense BOLO Xtreme sear FO front sight from Dawson PD firing pin spring PD Trigger & Sear springs 8 or 10 lb recoil spring XP extractor spring PD hammer spring. Generally 10 lights federals, 13 or 14 eats absolutely everything. Factory mags are still $15 each from CDNN Sports.

Swap back to the factory base pads and see if it still happens. If not, sell yours and try others.

Valid point on slugging the barrel. However... I don't know any USPSA competitor who cleans their gun bieeekly, much less every 200 rounds. My M&P looked like this 90% of its life - a few drops of oil on every range day, and a good scrubbing every ~5,000 rounds unless a major match is approaching. (And I'm not plannning to treat the Tanfo any more kindly. It needs to work when dirty, and work 100%) I don't think that's just me. It's the norm with 90% of the guys I've shot with, at multiple clubs.

Dryfire tonight was interesting. The bladetech body for my BOSS hanger showed up shockingly quickly, so I was able to begin relearning my drawstroke and practice a few loads. Here's the holstered blaster, and a comparison of the magazine & magwell sizes on the Stock III and my M&P 9L. Reloads are tougher to stick, but that's because the grip angle is off a few degrees and I need to relearn where to present the gun to eat the incoming mag consistently.

Like the Stock 2, my Stock 3 arrived with polygonal rifling in the barrel. In the past I've occasionally shot lead through my conventionally rifled S&W and (gasp!) my poly rifled G34. Anyone have direct experience with feeding their polygonal Stock 2 or 3 a lead diet? General advice is to use quality bullets, avoid hot light-bullet loads, and to keep an eye on things at first , which worked well in the Glock. Just looking for anyone with direct experience with it.

This post originally said I feared the gun was too fat due to the added width from the epoxy and silicon. I just dryfired with it (draws and loads) for half an hour and I'm quite happy with it. Finished product: (Until it gets sights and cerakote)

As WST is my favorite powder short of now-unobtainable Solo1000, that's a very heady recommendation. I'll be ordering 8(.8) pounds of it shortly.

How long have they had the gun? It hasn't been a month, has it?

No. Making the Open/Ltd shooters buckle down on the sight and going 1-for-1 like they're running a wheelgun is a good change of pace and a legitimate challenge of shooting skill.

It's only been a week. Dryfire more. A lot more. If necessary, bring the gun up from the holster with the front sight elevated and centered in front of the rear of the slide, then roll the muzzle downward as you press out until the dot appears. This way you know your dot will be centered L to R in the glass as you finish your draw - you just need to find your elevation. Obviously, you'll want to remove that extra "muzzle high" step in your drawstroke as soon as you develop a good index with the new optic. It's wasted motion, but it's more consistent and faster than hunting for the dot in random directions.

He replied in another thread that they are indeed LOK grips for a CZ. They'll only fit a small-frame Tanfoglio, which means that 97% of Americans are SOL on making them fit.

http://www.therockshed.com/grit.html Since someone asked via PM, this is where I ordered a pound of 60gr silicone carbide from. Cost about $12 and was at my door in three days.

I have extensive experience with cerakote, and you cannot get it to flake if properly applied. I wouldn't worry about that at all - if you media blast the surfaces and then hit then degrease them to Cerakote's specs, it's not going to flake.

All my previous guns were polymer and I didn't have removable grips that I could do the carbide treatment to. In person this looks much, much nicer. I'm going to take a brass gun brush to them when I get home and knock the loose grit off - right now they shed sand every time you play with them. Sunday is it's very first range trip. Don't look for a before & after comparison - I never fired the gun with original grips.

That's why I didn't buy $100 grips and did this instead. How guns fit you is highly individual - picking this thing up for the first time felt like it was custom molded to my hands. So I decided to give them traction, and keep that shape. The fact that this cost about $25 was a nice bonus over Henning or EGD grips!

The biggest surprise is how much difference that thumb groove made. It feels like my thumb is 1/4" longer, and I could already reach without flipping the gun. I'll get them installed tomorrow and let you know what I think. I will say one negative thing! This stuff, well, it... sparkles. You could market these as "GlitterGrips" if you wanted. Picture that really shiny black sandpaper you sometimes see and you've got it in your head. That's exactly the material I used. I'll probably cerakote these black. The highest points on the grips will undoubtedly wear down, but it'll kill most of the sparkle.

Painted a thin even coat of epoxy onto one panel, being careful to avoid getting any onto surfaces which touch the gun, or the hole for the grip screw. The best technique I found for compressing the media down into the epoxy was to pile it on good and deep, then put pressure downward evenly with my flattened hand. I was also careful to pack it inward on all four sides. The epoxy won't be dry enough to let me dust the excess off and screw them down until tomorrow night, but here's a few teaser shots of the finished grips. Next up? Cerakote and trigger work... someday, I'll get to those!

First modification to my Stock 3 is complete. Ordered 1 pound of 60-grit silicon carbide for $12 shipped. Then I picked up a couple of packs of epoxy and a set of fine brushes from Home Depot. Used a dremel to carve a groove for my thumb to better access the mag release on both panels, first. Mixed up 1/4 tube of JB Weld original epoxy - not the 5 minute JB Qwik.