MemphisMechanic

Particularly for action pistol uses... I'd have the chamber throated a few ten-thousandths to ensure reliable feeding. I've never had that cause accuracy degradation, and I like "Glock loose" chambers that swallow any around that gauges successfully.

Does your trigger stop moving forward the movement it resets? With Tanfos the ability to feel/hear the click is irrelevant to shooting them in USPSA in my experience. The trigger stops. That's where it resets. You come out past there and pull again. Shoot it like you will in a match (bill drills, fast pairs, etc) and paying attention to the way you don't use the click. I went through this with the M&P when switching from the "super click" Glock reset. A local GM convinced me the lack of click wouldn't be a problem with a few short practice drills. We don't actually use it. But everyone on the interent tells you it's important, so surely it must be.

Awesome! I appreciate you doing the legwork for the rest of us. I couldn't in good conscience run an EGD Light spring in a defensive gun, though. I'd want more of a hit to my primers than that.

I think once you practice with it, Mike, you'll be surprised what you can hit with a 6.5 pound DA, as long as it's smooth. (And by extension of that ... how little all our pull weight obsession actually matters)

I agree there - I went back in twice for additional rounds of polishing. To ensure the pull was as smooth as possible, but also trying to lighten things. Why? I realized that the lighter the trigger got (I got mine down around 5lbs in DA with a PD 13# hammer spring)... the heavier a hammer spring I could run to return the trigger to 6-6.5 pounds and have a gun that really whacks primers reliably. If you just polish things "good enough" you might be a pound heavier with the light springs, and the trigger won't roll back into the gun like it's on ball bearings. That's what really makes a gun shootable with a 7 pound trigger - the complete lack of gritty and jerky trigger motion.

Have you considered doing a gofundme for the kids? I bet a few of us might chip in $20 for the kid's guide rod, bolo, etc Well done, John. The more I dryfire and shoot mine with a seven pound DA (heavy hammer spring) the more I'm inclined to leave it alone and shoot it as it is. I'd take that SA in a heartbeat though. That's going to be a crisp trigger!

So it's purely a psychological comfort and you seem to know that. Gotcha. I can't fault you for carrying what makes you comfortable and confident.

Carrying the Tanfo hammer-down with a firing pin block between the pin and the primer is pretty much exactly the same as carrying a Glock. Except in the Glock the striker is partially cocked... so theoretically the Tanfo is actually safer. I'm not sure how this gun is causing uneasiness. I do however, agree that it's less ideal than a G19 for carry. That grip is long. The gun weighs over half a pound more than a similar Glock model (about 10 oz). I plan to grab one of the compact models eventually to play with, too. But have a feeling I'll still carry my 9mm SHIELD almost all the time.

After some serious time spent discussing things like this with IDPA HQ back when I ran matches, I'm going to have to agree with them, @Brooke ... When it comes to fault lines type things you can do anything, as long as you do exactly what they are saying you have to do. And nothing they don't. Delete any assumptions you had based on words that used to be in a rulebook. When they take something out it has always been because "Our requirements were too particular and we want you to be able to do _____ ... so we removed the words prohibiting it."

Here's my reasoning behind it being a non-issue. When the gun goes off decocking, it's invariably someone who tries to pinch the hammer down (as in the video above, and the two times I've seen it live) and they lose their grip way back at the rear where the hammer spring has the most force. Whether they were going to stop at halfcock or proceed to fully down is a non issue - they got their finger on the trigger before they had a good grip on the hammer. Its going to go bang and result in a DQ either way. Start fully down. Make people learn to shoot the DA pull well. Put the CZ / Tanfo guns in the situation where they were designed to be carried in a holster.

You're only next if you don't lay off the "provocative" meme posts.

Thread bump - glad there's a solution in here. Red loctite on my Henning grips won't stop the right one from shifting. I'm a lefty, so that's the side my fingers crush into when shooting. I'm going to try the O ring trick first.

Damn. Maybe I'll stop with the pencil tests.

Whereas I see sitting at a bench hand-priming as time spent tinkering in the pits, instead of out on the track learning to be a better driver. As I've mentioned before, I've handled the guns of three national champs in Production, and they all had average to downright horrible triggers. My gun runs 100% now. If I manage to trick the 650 into drilling primers deeper then yes, I'll drop spring weight. In the meantime, I have a stockpile of 2,000 rounds of this old ammo that I'm going to go practice with and get better.

Giving up the ability to rapidly bang out 800 rounds an hour just to have a lighter trigger... That seems just as insane to me as 7 pounds of DA seems to you.

My gun eats ammo yours won't, and runs without immaculate quality controlled ammo. With a very shootable 7 pound trigger. I don't see that as a "problem"

The biggest difference between IronArcher's ability to pop CCIs and mine likely isn't gun related at all. The lighter your springs get, the more crucial properly-seated primers become. Since my stockpile of Glock/M&P ammo doesn't have completely buried primers and they're really hard ones, I need to run more hammer spring than @IronArcher does.

He's reluctant to do that since a heavier spring will increase pull weight on his DA shot. Suggestion: Up your spring weight and shoot 10+ yard pairs out of the holster every time you practice at the range from now on, first, when cold. And dryfire the hell out of your DA. They aren't hard to shoot decently - I was working on that tonight. Head box, hammer down, two rounds from low ready or holster at 7-10 yards.

That's exactly the plan. Buried primers and a PD 13,14, etc are my long term goal. I wanted to see what it would take to make the gun run on my stockpile of crappy ammo first, though! Now I know how to configure a Tanfo if it starts acting up in the middle of a major match and it MUST work 110% perfectly on the next stage without any test-firing... or how to spring a carry gun if you still want a pretty damn good trigger. I learned. Now I dial backward if and when the ammo situation improves.

...and for @emjei too it seems. He's running CCI primed Freedom and other bulk factory stuff and a Wolff 13 and PD 14 weren't 100% for his gun either. If you don't mind a 7 pound DA (with polishing!) and need the gun to eat anything, right now the EGD Medium is the best option I have found. If you do more QC to your ammo or change primers or both? Then 4 or 5 pound triggers with Wolff or Patriot springs are achievable.

Just got back from the range. Still running that old batch of marginally-seated CCI primers (all flush or below, but "flush" isn't good enough for CZ/Tanfo guns with light hammer springs)... 19ish inches with 14 pound PD spring and OD heavy firing pin still wasn't 100%. One round went click in the first 75. I switched to the EGD Medium spring and my DA/SA Pulls went up 0.9/0.4 lbs respectively... but it truly eats anything with that 7-pound trigger. Fed if my oldest, crappiest CCI ammo loaded with Precision Delta FMJs and WST, and it ate 200 rounds of it like candy. Even rounds which definitely weren't below flush by any stretch of the imagination.

An 8# with 133PF 135gr and 147gr ammo wouldn't run reliably in my Stock III no matter how tightly the gun was gripped. I just ran 250ish rounds through it without a single malfunction after switching to a 10 pounder.

An easy way to work on roll pin fitted components. I do that a lot at work on things that weigh a few dozen tons. A very small punch to align the parts, around half of the hole size. Feed a larger one (just small enough to fit easily by hand) through to get them pretty much perfectly aligned, using the first punch to pry them into place as you feed the large punch in from the other side. Drive that larger punch out with your roll pin and a hammer. I also grind a small bevel on the end of the roll pin through the extractor and the right-side ambi safety that goes in first to make them even easier to install.

My gun was launching pencils 15.5" with PD 14 pound spring and the factory Tanfoglio firing pin. It would set off anything except CCI's that weren't below flush in the case... and even then it was down to 3 clicks in 150 rounds of double action. (Do you have any idea how boring it is to decock and shoot 150 times in a row?) Switching to the PD firing pin bumped the pencil test up 23% to 19" and I'm hoping that's enough to slay anything I load into the gun. I'm shooting 200 of those same rounds tonight.

Shoot the gun lefthanded in a 2-handed grip. It'll be super awkward but all of your mistakes will be in the opposite direction. Always the first thing I do with a user's "the gun shoots left" (Since I'm a lefty I've been asked to help diagnose guns for my righty friends who are new to the sport.) I'm not a fan of moving the sights because you don't learn to grip the gun properly and pull the trigger straight back nearly as quickly if you've set the gun up to hide your mistake. But to each his own. If you're not (1) Gripping the gun really really hard with your support hand - harder than strong hand - you're inviting the gun to pull left. Also (2) play with your index finger placement on the trigger. Choke up to the first joint then push out nearly to the fingernail and shoot groups. See what changes.