FLL1911

Not that uncommon. Over there, a legal document can be delivered by e-mail, and just happened that they used the e-mail address provided by the Facebook. It could be Google, Yahoo, Hotmail, or any other e-mail system. As far as I know, in the US e-mail is not a recognized mechanism for legal document delivery.

Yankee dog, How do you get the frothed milk from that? I do have one Italian machine similar to that one, but it does not produce steam

Nemo, I do not know about PR, but here (Miami area) all Cuban and PR restaurants, even the small ones, have a espresso machine – maybe just because here it is expected to have one. Good to know more about PR – I have friends from PR, and I will take a vacation trip to there as soon I can get one. One thing I found out about coffee is that the brand, although it does matter, being freshly grinded is what counts the most. I do use 100% Arabica (less bitter) beans from whatever brand I found at the nearby grocery store, and it tastes excellent, and I grounded it before brewing. I would try other brands, but whole beans are not a generic commodity found easily (any brand beans freshly grounded tastes better than any high-end brand pre-grounded, IMO). Thanks for sharing. I took note of the brands you mentioned and I will try to find them locally. -Marco

Jim, Probable you are familiar with the Rancilio, the big, top of the line espresso machine you frequently see where you get you café con leche (or cortadito). To make a recommendation simpler, I would classify espresso machines in 4 groups based on their internal operation: 1) Drip; 2) steam; 2) pump 3) boiler with pump. The prices (and quality of the brewed coffee) are higher as you go from 1 to 4. Drip machines are more know as the regular machines for American coffee type. Steam machines looks like more a regular espresso machine, but a lower cost. Instead of dripping, the coffee is brewed by steam. Unfortunately, for around $75 you are only going to find a steam (espresso like) machine, but they have mechanism allow you to make frosted milk needed for the café com leche or for the “cortadito”. Personally I had 2 of those before I bought my first espresso machine with internal pump (you only get the “Crema” – the brown foam on the top of the espresso with a machine with pump). Machines with boiler and pump (like the Rancilio) can keep the water at higher temperature while pouring the coffee, but they are very expensive (it will be close to a new Dillon 65o). For a good steam machine I would suggest the Krups XP1020 or similar: http://www.krupsonlinestore.com/product_de...mp;SKW=krusteam or http://www.target.com/Mr-Coffee-Steam-Espr...2449&page=1 And for a good pump machine the Krups XP4030: http://www.krupsonlinestore.com/product_de...amp;SKW=krupump You can find it at reasonable prices (under $150) in places like Bed, Bath and Beyond. I have been using the XP4030 for about 2 years everyday and it works very well, easy to use, and produces a quality espresso and Cappuccino. This machine is the best cost/benefit I could find for a pump machine, and I strongly recommend it if you would like to invest a little more – it really makes a huge difference from a steam machine. You can find some additional material here: http://www.coffeegeek.com/guides and http://www.coffeegeek.com/opinions/alanfrew/07-01-2002 Hope this helps, (edited to fix a typo ("drip" removed / "steam" inserted on the first link reference)

My bench is in a corner in the garage. It is 48" wide, 12" deep, and 36" high. I do have a Dillon 650 with case feeder and a Lee Loadmaster permanently mounted on it. It has enough space for everything. The only thing I prefer to have in a similar bench next to this one is my scale, notes, the caliper and a few other small things. It works pretty well.

Andy, 30 yards is a long shot, and probable I would like to be as still a could be, but far from that, most of the targets on an average stage design are not that far. What I learned very soon was that is quite easy to lean toward any side while shooting (still with both feet on the ground) without loosing accuracy. It is like there is a barricade I have to lean over to get the sight picture. The point is to break the inertia of the body weight just before start moving. What is still not easy for me is to actually start moving as soon the last shot breaks - sometimes it starts a little early, sometimes a little late. This and other things are my next steps for improvement. Not there yet, too.

What I learned (and still learning) from A and M shooter from my local club is that your body should by leaning towards the next position as you fire and follow-through the last shot in the current position, actually starting moving to the next position (also mentioned by Saul Kirsch in the “Master Class” video). It looks like you where completely stand still on the last shot on position one. Was the last target a steel and where you waiting to see if it fail?

Unless you do not mind the Loadmaster idiosyncrasies drive you insane. I still have my Loadmaster I started loading 45 ACP, 30-06 and 22-250, and I can tell, it works but it is far away what you expect from a progressive machine. It will jam frequently as you try to speed up to – let’s say – 200 rounds / hour. I still have it set for my 45 ACP loads, but I try to get mentally prepared before starting reloading. I do have mechanical abilities, but it is not the case with the Loadmaster. I like the Loadmaster, but in my opinion it has 2 major design problems: 1) the case feeder slider movement is driven by the crank slider, which is adjusted by friction. As you reload and depending the amount of cases you have in the tube, pressuring the feeder slide against its base, the friction amount changes and the case does not go all the way to the shell plate 2) the primer feeding mechanism is driven by shaking (the primer tray), and by a small plastic finger and arm which will be crushed soon or later. There is no adjustment for the primer feeder, and sideways and upside down primer is quite frequent. I found these problems very annoying to the point I stopped using it for my rifle calibers and bought another machine (not Lee) for my 40 cal loads. I also have heard that several people are actually happy with their Loadmaster, but just keep in mind that these problems do exist whether or not they bother you. Case feeder operation: Primer operation:

It seems he is not in stand by position anymore. He is already reached for the grip and it looks like he is about to move forward. It is not possible to see whether or not forward movement is needed for this COF - Left movement is clear to see. Maybe is rotating left - the RO is at his right side, not at his back. Just a guess.

My action plan: 1. Discuss with other shooters how they are going to do, and use it considering their skills and division – their timing might be different from yours 2. What happens after the activation – What is the best time to engage? Close to the activation; the later the better; or something in between? Swingers that are not visible after they stop are better engaged (for me) just after 1 or 2 swings when the speed start to slow down just a little bit. If they are visible after they stop, the later the best. Targets that collapse after being activated, are better engaged (again, for me) iimmediately 3. What targets do I have before and after I activate? Can I hit some, activate, hit some more and they engage the target I just activated? I would consider the time that it would take to have the target ready after the activation and my time engaging the other targets (full paper targets take less time than small steel plates) 4. Build a target hit order based on all items above. There is no single answer as there is no single COF – each one requires analysis that matches your shooting skills and preferences.

I would not do that if what you are trying to do is to avoid the Movie Maker download. Other than having to re-install a lot of things you already have in your computer, and perhaps losing some documents, pictures etc. you might have in folders that will be deleted and recreated during the new install, you are going to end-up having to download a huge amount of Windows update. Windows XP installation files usually are up to date to the Service Pack 2 (set of Windows updates bundle together – aka SP2). The current is Service Pack 3 which will need to be downloaded after the new install, and it is several times bigger than the Movie Maker file you are trying to avoid download. Ask friends, extended family, co-works, for who has high speed interned to download the Movie Maker for you and put it on a CD or on those small thumb drives (small portable USB memory sticks). If you really can’t find anyone with high speed access, I would be glad to do it and mail it to you. Do not try to re-install Windows, unless you really need to do it, and you know what you are doing.

They are pretty good. It does mean that your reloads are very consistent. Small changes in powder charge although changes the final velocity should not change the accuracy of the load if all other components are the same. I get low std dev on my loads whenever I can keep the powder flow consistent from one case to another, and the powder weigh is not very close to the minimum recommended (possible blow-by) – usually between 7 to 15, but as low as 3 – 4 in some loads in 40 cal and 45 ACP (I use mixed headstamps).

Could not watch it to the end – the music is too annoying.

So… Massa lost the championship due to Glock equipment failure?

It looks like T1 and T16 will be at the 180 degrees line once you cross the door.

This is my load data from Dec 2007 in South Florida - altitude 0 ft, temperature 76 F: STI 2011 5" barrel Powder: VV N320 Bullet: Masterblast 200gr FP Moly OAL: 1.170" Grains Low High Avg Spread Std Dev # Shots 3.7 802.00 828.00 817.00 25.75 8.42 9 3.8 818.78 845.02 832.24 26.24 9.27 9 3.9 862.05 871.92 865.45 9.87 3.87 5

It is not exactly you were asking, but I think this self contained hat camera is pretty cool. Last night at our local club match one fellow shooter was carrying one of these small cameras attached on top of his earmuffs – no additional unit or cables to carry. EPIC Action Sports Camera

I am really not sure if the temperature is the cause, but theoretically it could be possible. Case and primers are made of different metals with different expansion / contraction amount as temperature changes. Suppose that brass contracts more than the primer material at 30 F. The direct consequence is that it will require a lot more effort to remove the primer. I not saying that it is happening since I do not know the expansion characteristics of both metals, but you can run a quick test by putting some cases in the freezer until they get the same temperature you have in the winter, and then compare the pressure need to deprime them compared to the cases you kept at 100 F degrees. If you do the test, post the results. It would be nice to know what is causing the problem.

This is my test load data for Clays on my Springfield Armory 1911 5" barrel using Zero bullets 230 gr RN I chrono on Dec 2007 (South Florida, altitude 0 ft, temperature around 76 F). It seems that the lower limit is 3.9 grains. Below this there is blow by, making the loads inconsistent (higher spread). Grains OAL Min Max Avg Spread Std Ded 3.8 1.260 639.62 710.26 670.99 70.64 31.35 3.9 1.260 659.42 707.47 688.79 48.05 25.70 4.0 1.260 710.71 751.06 724.94 40.35 18.11 For OAL comparison, my Precision bullets 230 FP are 1.221. 1.200 seems too short for RN. Hope this helps,

On the 3 Masters DVD from Double-Alpha (I think), Angus Hobdell made a mention of his grip style having his finger around the trigger guard – works for him but he had a neutral position on which grip would work better for someone else. For me, having the finger around the trigger guard feels that my left hand hold is weaker than having my finger normally over my right hand fingers, not extended over the trigger guard. Try it and compare.

I make a comp for Angus and I think that was the thread. I would have to find the tap and look. It was for a CZ factory threaded barrel. Also from CZ: Threaded barrels and compensators (and other CZ Champion parts) are no longer imported.

Sharing the info I got from CZ: Thread size (metric) 14 x 1 mm Right Hand

Thanks to all for the replies. phig, PM is on the way. It would be great to have your input.

Does anybody has the exactly barrel / compensator thread size for either the CZ Champion or the Tanfoglio / EAAWitness? I have one reference from the EAA compensator as thread size being M4 x 0.7 (quite standard metric thread size) or M4 x 0.75 (this one not so common). I do not remember which one. Anybody? I am building a similar open gun from a CZ SP01 with a help of a good friend, the local CZ guru. The project is very similar to this one: Revamped SPO1 "OPEN", but the main differences are the option for the barrel and the compensator. For the barrel I can’t find any barrel with external diameter that could accommodate the standard thread size used in most 1911 barrels (.575 x 40 tpi for straight barrels and .685 x 40 tpi for bull barrels) so I need to use a smaller thread size. I am using a compensator blank, so I can accommodate any thread size, but I would like to use something that would allow me later to used a standard barrel / compensator from either CZ or Tanfoglio. The CZ SP01 (and the CZ TS) use a .40 cal barrel chambered in 9mm. It is .551” thick, compared to the .502” from the standard 9mm CZ 75 barrel.