FLL1911

It started as my first Open gun, but I haven't used it for a while still shooting Open. Basically a Standard SP01 with compensator attached to the original barrel, double action firing mechanism switched to single action.Shoots 9 Major.

Unless your magazine is perfectly flat and square (I think most magazines aren't), only a small part of the mag actually is touching the base of the mag gauge. I tried 6 STI mags, all clearly shorter than 140mm and 2 SPS exactly 141mm, and only a very narrow part of the mag touches the base of the gauge – if you do not pay attention, it looks like they are not even touching the gauge. I had to double check it. The bottom part of the mag lips is not supposed to touch the gauge. There is an indentation cut in this area. The gauge surface where the mag rests looks like this: \ | \_____----------_______________________________----------- | |______________| I thought that the procedure was self evident, but I just realize that if you do not pay attention, it could lead you to an incorrect reading. Have you tried to check it again with a mag gauge?

Under the rules, lost, incomplete or missing time score sheets are treated the same way regarding reshoot.

You follow both rules: 1) you do not grant a reshoot due to the squib; 2) (in a separate event) you grant a reshoot due to the score sheet missing;

There are 2 unrelated facts: 1. A squib situation that did not warrant a reshoot, in fact got it. It was a RO mistake, but it is now done; 2. In an independent scenario, the score sheet was lost / misplaced; If we analyze the rules with this in mind, it looks pretty much straight forward. Rule 9.7 deals with score sheet, and 5.7 deals with malfunctions – Competitor’s equipment. Rule 9.7.6 is related to the reshoot due to an incomplete / missing score sheet. The text -“In the event that a reshoot is not possible or permissible for any reason..” cannot be used related to the squib, because that reshoot already happened, so it can’t be denied again. The “not possible”, is to handle situations like: the shooter already left the range; the stages were taken down, etc. or other reasons that would prevent the reshoot to actually take place. The “permissible” would handle situations like a “DQ” after the “squib reshoot”. The reshoot should not be granted due to the squib, but it happened, but the reshoot due to missing score should be granted.

I think it will depend of the specific comp and how far back the lens is from it. In my case a blast shield would be nice since the lens still gets hit, not bad, but still gets it. The distance from the C-more lens ring is 2.25" to the rearmost comp port.

CZ SP01 9mm Major

It is legal under the current USPSA rules disabling the grip safety on a 1911 / 2011 type gun, by any means. During a major match at our local club last year, I had my 2011 grip safety disabled with a wide rubber band, and some shooters pointed out that it was illegal. The issue ended up being ruled legal by the match designated CRO, but some shooters still had restrictions on disabling the thumb safety by other means other than pining it down. One of the shooters e-mailed a question to NROI, which replied that it has always been allowed to tape or pin the grip safety. Based on 8.1.2.4 – the thumb safety is the primary safety on those guns.

Beven, thank you for the comments, Marco

How did you shorten the CZ 26 mags,I found a source for them. Venry did it. You can contact him directly at Radical Precision. I do not know the details. If you would like to share the CZ26 mag source, I would appreciated it. You can message me if you want. Marco

From the conversation with Beven today regarding how the round tendency to keep the nose down is related to how the magazine taper handles the transition from double stack to single stack, I put my magazines side by side, and noticed that they have different taper transition– the Tanfoglio has the longest taper, the CZ a little shorter than the Tanfoglio, and the big stick the shortest of all. Coincidence or not, the tendency to nose diving is greater with the Tanfoglio, still occur with CZ mag, but does not occur with the big stick. If I change to a follower that has legs, forcing the round nose up, the FTF nose dive does not occur in any of my mags. Not my area of expertise, but the taper length / angle seems to be a close relationship with the FTF described earlier– correct me if I am wrong. I put some masking tape on the mags, right on where the taper begins and took some pictures:CZ SP01 Open Magazines

I gave a call to Beven today as mentioned - It was a pleasure to talk to him! Among other things, he explained to me how the transition from double stack to single stack works inside the magazine and how important is the magazine shape close to the top to handle it properly. I will follow Beven’s suggestion posted earlier, but more likely my mags need to be tuned, and this service is planned be available from Grams Engineering in the near future. Thanks Beven, Marco

Yeap! 24 rounds with Grams kit, and easily reloadable. To double check, today I got one of my magazines, replaced the guts and tried it again - it looks like the actual capacity is 24 1/2 rounds - it can be compressed back easily and would get a clean reload. Remember I am using Pearce Grip basepad which could be a little longer than the one you are using. The reliability issues I mentioned happened with 22 and 23 and 24 rounds on the mag. Yes, 22 rounds are plenty enough for the vast majority of stages where a reload is needed, but in my opinion, if a magazine is reloadable with the maximum capacity, loading less rounds will not make it more reliable - my 2 cents.

I have those. I can get 24 rounds with the CZ 19 rounds mag and the Pearce Grip basepad, but they are unreliable. I have tried almost everything I could think of to make it work. They are not reliable with the Tanfoglio mag either, but the 9mm Grams kit works flawless with the big stick made of a CZ-26 mag. By the way, they are the standard Grams follower made for STI/SVI, roughly shorted to fit a standard 9mm mag. Hello FFL1911, From your description of the Grams Follower Kit you are trying to use in your CZ75 mags, you are not using the FKC-11. This new follower kit is designed closer to my Tanfoglio follower not the Grams STI/SV follower. At current production, the follower is marked "TC" in the bottom of the follower. You may be having problems because of this. But, I would also suspect that your 19 round mag tubes are not shaped right, compared to your big stick, since the big stick seems to be working fine (J-Hon touched on this issue in a previous post). I would also assume that you changed to a 13 coil spring for the big stick. I welcome any questions on this, just give me a call. Hello Beven, You are right, I am not using the new FKC-11 follower kit. I got those from ShooterConnection, and I believe they were initially designed for STI/SVI 9mm mags. Their appearance clearly showed a standard follower with the back cut (roughly I might say) to fit a smaller mag, but that was what were available by beginning of 2008, when I bought it, before the gun was built. I am not sure I have any problems with my CZ mags - they were factory mags, and I have 4 of them, plus one Tanfoglio mag, and I had experienced the problem in all of them - I made sure to rotate mags and spring and followers between them. I was using 11 coils spring with the CZ 19 rounds mags and 13 coils with the Tanfoglio and the big stick. I am not sure, but it also could be the cycle rate of the 9mm Major ammo (115 gr MG, 8.6 gr HS6). The CZ SP01 open is my first Open gun, and I started shooting 9 mm Minor with Winchester WB for about a 6 weeks before starting reloading 9mm Major, and I do not recall having any feeding problem with Grams followers with standard 9mm ammo. I am glad to know that there is a kit for CZ, and I will give you a call during the week to try to sort out what is going on with my mags / Grams follower combination - I have been using Grams kit on my STI limited for years and they always proved 100% reliable to me, and it works on my 9mm big stick - so they MUST work with my other magazines. Thanks, Marco

For me, it works on the practice range, it works on some stages, it sometimes works for 3 stages in a row (our weekly matches), but it is not reliable for matches. I never tried the Angus +2 basepad, but my guess is that you should get 22 with the original follower and 24 with the Grams follower. I do not have any experience with the CZ 26 rounds mag, but my guess is that if the indentations are in the way, removing it will increase capacity. I have seen similar solutions with Beretta mags, and it works. I do have a Tanfoglio 26 rounds mag that has no indentations and with or without Grams follower it is still 26 rounds – loser with Grams follower, but still 26 rounds.

I have those. I can get 24 rounds with the CZ 19 rounds mag and the Pearce Grip basepad, but they are unreliable. I have tried almost everything I could think of to make it work. They are not reliable with the Tanfoglio mag either, but the 9mm Grams kit works flawless with the big stick made of a CZ-26 mag. By the way, they are the standard Grams follower made for STI/SVI, roughly shorted to fit a standard 9mm mag. Thats good to know, what is the bullet doing? nose diving? what would you say is reliable 22rds? how about 23? Not reliable with any number or rounds. I did almost everything I knew trying to fix it - longer loads / shorter loads / cycle springs / cycle mags / file the mag release to make clearance close to the feed ramp. It nose dive before the first 5 shots are fired. In the video I posted I started with the big stick and reload a CZ mag with Grams follower - FTF at the end of the stage. On the other hand, it works flawless with the big stick. It was built by Venry and I think he tuned it (I never asked). The CZ followers have legs that keep the bullet angle up all the time. When Grams follower is used, the bullets do not keep the same angle - it is lower. On the big stick, the bullet angle is always up, like the CZ follower angle - that is my only clue to go to the root cause of the problem, and why it works fine with the big stick. I get 22 rounds reloadable and reliable on the CZ mags with the original follower and the Pearce Grip basepad - they are not great, but at the time I bought it they were the only basepads available for CZ SP01 (Angus only had it for the TS). Now, by filling the bottom of the follower longer leg, allowing it get deeper into the mag, I can get 23 rounds instead of 22.

Oh man that is too cool! Do you have to unscrew the comp to get the barrel out for cleaning? No I do not. I can clean it with the barrel / compensator in the slide. The compensator is attached to the barrel by threads and thread lock glue (Loctite).

I have those. I can get 24 rounds with the CZ 19 rounds mag and the Pearce Grip basepad, but they are unreliable. I have tried almost everything I could think of to make it work. They are not reliable with the Tanfoglio mag either, but the 9mm Grams kit works flawless with the big stick made of a CZ-26 mag. By the way, they are the standard Grams follower made for STI/SVI, roughly shorted to fit a standard 9mm mag.

CZ SP01 Open 9mm Major in action (with a screw-up on reloading just before the end of the stage -

I think the link is working now (I am new to Flickr). Now when I use the link it does not ask me to log in. Let me know if it is not working for you.

Here they are: CZ SP01 Open 9mm Major I haven't seen Venry for a while, and I not sure he is working on these conversions. The key element is the compensator, especially if you are using the original SP01 barrel which does not have an extra length over the end of the slide. I think it could be a little easier using a longer barrel. Initially I bought a 6" barrel from CZ think it would be a must to install the compensator, but Venry figured out how to do it with the original barrel. Compensator by Venry; Single action conversion by my shooting buddy Shay1911, sight mount manufactured by another shooting buddy and installation by Derek (Millennium Custom), big safety and magwell installed by me - it was a long span, multiple hands project - we all are from the same club SFPC

I forgot to mention that the 170mm mag I borrowed was made by Venry trimming the bottom of the original CZ 26 mag. It is very reliable - the mag owner, Shay1911 has been using it on his CZ Champion for over a year. I used the mag on our weekly match last evening - flawless.

I have been shooting my CZ SP01 Open for about 6 months. It is a standard CZ SP01 converted to single action with standard drop-in factory parts, added a compensator built by Venry d'Aiguillon (Radical Precision) and added a C-more red dot sight, a magwell and a large safety release (I have small hands) from CZ Custom. I am using the original barrel with 9mm Major loads. The compensator is very efficient and it shoots very flat, flatter than a CZ Champion Open with the same ammo. Unfortunately I do not have any pictures at the moment, but I will try to get some very soon, and I will post it. Magazines are the standard CZ 19 rounds with a extended base pad from Pearce Grip (for Berretta 92 / Browning HP) giving 22 rounds count. Big stick is a Tanfoglio long mag (the one that is made by soldering 2 mags together) for 26 rounds count. Yesterday I borrowed from a friend a big stick made from a CZ sub-machine gun mag cut to 170mm). It holds 29 rounds, and I will be using it at the Sunshine Games in Orland later this month.

I am using 8.6 grains of Hodgdon HS-6 with Montana Gold 115 grains bullets and 8.2 grains with 124 grains bullets. Nice 9 major load for my CZ SP01 converted to Open division gun. HS-6 is quite popular around here for 9 major loads, but not sure if it is an easy to find powder in Italy.

Brian, I do print high resolution prints from my Nikon or from old slides or negatives I have scanned. For high end prints I gave up printing it myself – it is hard to get a very good color rendition with almost any domestic printer with any photo paper if you compare it with professional printing. There a few things that needed to be taken care before getting a good quality print. First of all, the original file must have high resolution, and it looks like you have it. You just mention 5x7 and 460 dpi. 240 to 300 ppi (pixels per inch is the correct term) are very good resolutions for a high quality print. The problem is when you enlarge the size of the of the print, the file resolution does not change, and the same number of pixels are now in a larger area, but it looks like you can get 11” x 14” prints with very good quality. These are consideration regarding where you are going to have it printed, at the lab or at home. I strongly suggest you to use a professional lab, but there is a catch – to make sure you are going to have a good print at one particular lab, with the specific professional print they use, you need to make sure the colors and brightness you are seeing on your screen will be rendered exactly the same at the lab – which is not that easy to do. First of all, you have your screen calibrated (with a colorimeter), and ideally use the print profile provided by the lab (somehow equivalent to the printer driver for your printer). Trial and error is often used until it gets done, and it could be costly using a professional lab. What I do is a compromised solution. I do not have a colorimeter, so my computer screen is not calibrated, and I do expect to have some shift in colors and brightness on my prints. Instead of expensive photo labs, I do use COSTCO and Sam’s Club – and believe it or not, COSTCO is a professional quality photo lab which is used extensively by professional photographer (I am an amateur photographer). They even provided printer profiles for their photo printer, by COSTCO location). Sam’s Club is also has a good printing service and I have used it several times. Both are very inexpensive, and currently I am paying $3.99 for a high quality 11’x14” print. Now, how to get the right color and brightness: From my computer I create print files with small changes in brightness and sometimes color correction and I have it printed in 4”x6” size. Based on the results I make additional corrections and print it again until it is right, and then I generate the bigger file for a large print. Important: It does not work if you are uploading the files. It must be done at the store, and the reason is that when you upload you have no control do disable the automatic color and brightens correction that usually are turned on at the print machine. When placing the order at Sam’s or Costco, asked the printer operator to do not apply any corrections to the print (print “as is”) – they will be happy to follow your instructions. Hope this helps, Marco