Joe D

Welcome to IDPA. 9mm 1911s can be a little difficult to live with. Some feed and some don't. I have a 9mm/40 Kimber that is flawless. OTOH I have seen Springfields that had accuracy and feed issues. The Springfield will put you in ESP. There are a couple of issues with ESP. First issue is it tends to be more competitive. ESP is also where those SSP shooters that have moved up too far tend to shoot. Perfect example is the girl that moved up at the Nationals from MM to SS in ESP. What most failed to notice was she had already moved up to SS from MM in SSP months before. She used the same gun in ESP, that she shoots in SSP, at the Nationals. I would just get a Glock 17/34 for half the cost. There is a reason Glocks own IDPA. They are cheap, accurate, go bang every time and you can't wear them out. Slap a LWD 3.5 connector in and you are good to go. Revolver? What the heck is a revolver? Nobody shoots those anymore.

It is interesting how some have feed issues and others don't. I have two G35 9mm conversion barrels - LWD and Federal. They both have been flawless. I don't even change the ejector. The only thing I change is the mag.

.377" for me also.

Lone Wolf is the best choice. They cost about half as much as the overpriced KKM and Barsto barrels. The quality and accuracy equals both. OTOH what is wrong with your stock barrel?

I ordered one today. Guess I will have to crank up the mill to take a little weight off if I want to shoot .40 in ESP.

That looks like the old style locking block. Is it safe to assume the metal frame does away with any slide peening issues? Wonder why they did not use the new style locking block?

If the Glock website is correct there is 1.6 oz difference in the G35 and G34. Not sure what a Glock mag weighs.

I talked with IDPA today. The frame is legal for ESP as long as you use a G34/35 length slide. Is not legal with a G17/22 slide. My concern is whether or not it will make weight with a G35 top end. 43 oz. without mag will not. Eric are you certain about the weight? If so then a G34 top end might work. I have a certified scale that I will weigh the two top ends with.

My old G35 had a 1 1/4 lb. pull. At the 100,000 round mark I decided to sell it. No good reason to, just wanted a new one. The pull was the same the whole time I owned it. I replaced one return spring at about the 60,000 round mark. Gun never doubled or gave me any trigger related problems. If you clean and lubricate these guns every once in a while they will last forever. The G34 I have been playing with has a 1 lb pull. It has about 6,000 rounds through it. Let off, overtravel and pre-travel are easily controlled. You don't have to tighten a slide to increase engagement. I use a stock trigger spring along with a 4 lb striker spring. How do I get a 1 lb. trigger? The answers are spread over several forums. Look and you shall find.

What is wrong with your stock barrel? Are you capable of better accuracy than it can give you? I suspect the answer is no. We shoot at huge targets. We are not shooting Bullseye. Any gun than is capable of 2 1/2" groups at 25 yards is more than accurate enough for IPSC/IDPA. Rare is the gun that will not group under 2 1/2" with a proper load. If you spend a little time doing load development you will find an accurate load. I can't tell you how many aftermarket barrels I have installed where the shooter seemed to think this modification was going to some how catapult them to Master class. When you track their progress you find they are not shooting any better. You can buy a lot of practice ammo for the price of a BarSto barrel.

How much lower than 16 oz. do I need to go to get a "really good match trigger"?

Tightening a Glock slide is a total waste of time. If you just have to do it, do it right. Measure the thickness of the frame rails. Then whip out your trusty surface grinder and grind some flat bars like you use on a 1911 frame. .002" should be about the right clearance. The bar will prevent you from over tightening the slide. I did this once - complete waste of time and effort.

Guys I am overwhelmed with your out pouring of sympathy. It really means a lot to me. Thank you from the bottom of my heart. I was able to get through my Mom's eulogy. My heart broke when my Dad kissed his wife of 67 yrs for the last time. Time and God's Grace will heal the scars. My Mom was one of those folks that believed her mission in life was to be a witness for Christ. She would ask a total stranger "Do you love the Lord"? The line will be long in Heaven of those that are there because of her. I guess my Grandfather will have to take time away from his quail hunting to spend time with his daughter now that she has come home. My heart goes out to all of you that have lost loved ones.

My Mom passed away Wednesday morning. She had asked me to do something about a year ago. Her wish was to die in my arms. I was able to fulfill her wish. I was holding her in my arms when she took her last breath. What a great honor and privilege to be holding your Mom when she passes from this life into Heaven. It was very peaceful. Her breathing got slower and slower then stopped. The hospice nurses were wonderful. Guys spend as much time as you can with your loved ones. You never know when they will be gone. The hardest part is not being able to see them again in this life. I will always remember how her face would light up when I would go see her. Just her little statement of "Hey son" and that big smile told me everything. Today we will bury her. I must be strong for my Dad. They were married for 67 years. It is hard not to weep.

I don't use the FCD either. I have not found a need for the "U" die. The regular Lee carbide works just fine. I do seat and taper crimp in two operations. Don't need to do this with jacketed bullets, but stops the coating from shaving with Bear Creek bullets.

Have you run your loads across a chrono? I have never seen any "bolt over" issues with a Glock. There is something else going on here. I think it is a combination of limp wrist and low power factor for the 15 lb. spring. I can make a Glock run at a 100 PF or less.

I make Major with 4.2 gr of Clays and a 200 gr LSWC. I need 4.5 gr of TG. The Clays load just shoots softer and is a little cleaner.

It sounds to me like over crimping. I had the same problem several years ago with .40. I would get rounds that would not go all the way into the case gage. About half of the rim would be sticking out. I backed off my taper crimp about a turn and the problem went away. I have found no need for the FCD or the "U" die. I just use a RCBS taper crimp die to seat and crimp. The standard Lee carbide die will size away any "Glock Bulge".

My old G35 had over 100,000 rounds through it. I broke one trigger spring at about the 70,000 round mark.

There is something odd going on with your gun. Wish I could get my hands on it. My Glocks feed everything I stick in them. I have used springs as light as 9 lbs and bullets as heavy as 160 gr with an OAL of 1.160". I run my G35 at a 135-136 PF. It will easily function at 128, but the occasional stiff piece of brass will not expand enough to seal the chamber at that PF. My current 9mm load is a 160 gr RN at a little over 800 fps. I use a 12# Wolf spring for everything - Major or Minor. It is starting to sound like a bullet profile issue to me. One of my shooting buds went in with me on a large purchase of 180 gr. Precision Delta bullets. He had feed issues from day one with these bullets. My two G35s have not missed a beat with them. I wound up buy his share of the order.

I would not call it a trade secret. Just lessons learned the hard way. Not saying you are one, but there are those that are lazy in this world. They want someone else to do the work and experimenting then just give away all their knowledge. My approach is like a trig teacher I had in high school. When students would get stumped he would give you just enough information to get you to the next step in the problem. You had to think and figure out things on your own. One kid asked him why he didn't just tell us the answer. His response was "If I did you would not learn anything". If you want to learn how to do trigger jobs do as I did - buy a dozen trigger bars and crank up the drill press. Flex removed my other post so let me clear up something. I was not advertising. I don't need the money. I was just pointing out there is a cost associated with knowledge.

Forgot to mention that I have posted bits of info on several websites that shows or tells how to do most of the modifications. I think Duck of Death has figured out about 75% of it.

Eric, I tried the drilling a second hole, but got better results bending the tab. You kill two birds with one stone bending the tab. Back when I was drilling a hole I found it easier to just cut a slot above the original hole rather than drilling another one. It is not exactly 90 degrees. There is a dimension that I set it to. I measure from the end of the nose to the end of the tab.

BTW, there is no need for heavy trigger springs. You can get a 1 lb. pull if desired using Glock parts. Well I do cheat a little and use a reduced striker spring for that. I like 1 1/4 lbs. for my guns. I use an 8 lb. connector to get a sub 3 lb. 1911 pull. There is no need for a trigger stop either. One can stop the reward motion of the trigger without them. The trigger can be set to release at different points also. Those with large hands like the trigger to release early. Folks with smaller hands like the trigger to release at the end of the travel. That's enough Trigger 101 today.

OK, here is the simple way to limit forward trigger travel and increase tension on the trigger return spring without drilling. Place trigger bar is vise as shown. Use a propane torch to heat the bend in the tab that the spring hooks to. Heat to a dull red and bend tab forward with a screw driver. The tab will be at about 90 degrees rather than angled to the rear. You will have to play with it a little to avoid deactivating the striker safety. You do not need to reheat the tab to make adjustments.