Joe D

Hope things work out for you. I had a very interesting thing happen to me about 6 years ago. I had worn glasses for 35 + years. I started having severe headaches so I decided it was time to have my eyes checked. I had not had that done for 15 years. I figured I would need stronger glasses. Sitting in the chair I did the usual "which is better" thing. The doc read my prescription again, scratched his head and informed me that I no longer needed glasses. My eyes had gone from 20/100 to 20/40 in left eye and 20/30 in right. No real good explanation other than eyes can change with age.

I never could get Clays to work with heavy 9mm bullets. I switched to Solo 1000 and the tumbling went away. I load a 160 gr BC bullet in my wife's Glock. No tumbling issues.

I had a Norton just like this one. Current bike is a '01 Kaw Concours. I have had too many bikes to count over the years. I even had two "Death Machines" - Kawasaki H1 and H2. Currently looking at either a '08 1250 Bandit, '08 SV650 and a FZ1. The Connie is a great bike - just a little heavy for around town. The Concours is a pretty darn good touring bike. Kaw made very few changes over 20 years of production. http://www.roncobb.com/Norton1971.html

I can't imagine a better trigger than the one on my 41 - 1 1/2 lbs. I put these grips on it the other day http://www.herrett-stocks.com/h41.htm It points just like my Glocks now. I did round off the front edge of the grips to match the radius of the front strap.

I could not get Clays to work at all. Bullets tumbled badly. Try 3.2-3.4 gr of Solo with the 147s. What is your OAL? I tried some lead 160 gr bullets from Valiant - no go tumbling. For some reason they did not tumble out of a LW barrel though. Try some of the BC 160s. You will love them.

I have not used TG in a couple of years. I used it very briefly with the 160 gr bullets. I don't recall any tumbling issues. I have since switched to Solo 1000 in 9mm.

Kevin, what powder are you using? My wife shoots a 160 gr BC 9mm - no tumbles.

They are called "Pig Nose" Glocks. There are multiple threads on Glock Talk about how to fix that condition. I would not be caught in public with one. It is kind of like taking an ugly girl to the prom.

I read some of Mark's (MarkCo) dribble over on Glock Talk years ago. What he had stated made zero sense to me. I knew shooters that had shot lead bullets through Glocks for years because no one had told them not to. Sooooo that being said I decided to test some lead bullets myself. He had broad brushed all Glocks into the "Lead will blow up your Glock" category. I loaded up 500 125 gr Lead Valiant bullets with 3.5 grs of Titegroup. This load was to be my wife's practice load - 1060 fps. After a couple of hundred rounds I pulled a Bore Snake through her Glock - no leading. 500 rounds no leading. At 1,000 rounds there was just a very slight trace of lead. I realize there is very little common sense left in the world today. OTOH lead shooters have know for years that proper l bullet diameter, hardness and lube are key factors to successfully shooting lead through a Glock or any other gun. BTW I forgot to mention my Glocks have not had a jacketed bullet through them in years. I have been using Bear Creek bullets with very good results. Yep, I still use lead bullets for practice.

Will the Glock barrels and lead bullets myth never end. I can't begin to tell you how many tens of thousands of lead and moly bullets I have shot through stock Glock barrels. Will the madness never end????????????????? There are three major Glock internet myths/wives tales - lead bullets, firing out of battery and unsupported chambers.

Duane, my wife mostly shoots a G17. We have a couple of G34s. Sometimes she wants to shoot a G34 length slide. It is much easier to just put one of the G34 slides on her frame. That way she has the same trigger pull.

OK here comes the same dumb question I asked on the USPSA Production thread a few weeks ago - what difference does it make as to what frame you put the slide on? The frames are exactly the same. Beyond that how can anyone tell what the frame started out as. Please no "Well you would know" dribble. Once again the frames are exactly the same. Is Robert also saying that you can't put a Glock 34 upper on a G17 lower?

I had a conversation with Robert about the 5" G21 slide legality. He told me that side is legal for CDP and ESP only if the slide does NOT have the hole in the top like a G34/35. Neither it nor any other LWD slides with front cocking serrations would be legal in SSP.

Here's how the rules work - IDPA guns have to be blessed by Robert Ray. USPSA has an encyclopedia to handle all the "Range Lawyers". There is probably some happy medium between both. I won't even go into the USPSA mess, but here is an example of "Robert Rayisms". A Lone Wolf stainless steel slide for a Glock is not legal in IDPA due to front cocking serrations. OTOH one can tri top, scallop or whittle away the slide of a STI/SVI 2011 and still be legal in ESP/CDP.

The .45 can also be used for ESP.

Where has the common sense gone in USPSA. Let's see you can slather Tru Grip all over your gun, but you can't have a RTF lower. That makes about as much sense as an earlier thread that stated you could not put a G35 upper on your G17 lower.

If your LWD barrel shoots high just remove some material from the little step where the barrel meets the chamber. This will raise the rear of the barrel up. I had to do this with a 9/40 Federal barrel.

So someone has finally come up with a way to get past the old "action/reaction" thing.

Waste of time and money.

3.5 with a 200 gr LSWC = 690 fps. You will need a 12# Wolf spring. Your stock barrel will work just fine.

Mine has been resting in the safe for years. I may have to shoot it some. Some of the local IDPA clubs are starting to have a .22 Division due to lack of primers.

When we lived in Atlanta I kept up a local indoor range's guns. I have worked on Glocks with over 400,000 rounds through them that functioned perfectly. The only thing that ever broke was the trigger spring. I traded in a G35 a couple of years ago that had well over 100,000 rounds through it. It was just as accurate then as when I bought it.

Most LE gun purchases are based on cost. In other words who will give them the best deal. Bear in mind 95% of LEOs can't hit their butt with both hands. I worked with three agencies in Atlanta when we lived there. I was good friends with one of the LT/Training Officers at Norcross PD. I told him I thought their Qualification course was way too easy. His comment was if he made it harder they would not have any Officers on the street. I never see Sigs or HKs at IDPA matches. IMO they are just too difficult to shoot with speed and accuracy. Yes I know CDP has been won by guns other than 1911s. OTOH those that won could win with any gun. The M&P is the only gun I would consider for CDP other than a G21 or 1911. It does not work for me. None of the grip panels felt right. The G21 I had would feed 200 gr LSWC without any issues. No leading problems either. If you are having feed problems just switch to a 230 RN. Here's a suggestion. Set up a simple IDPA stage with little to no movement. A 12 round stage has enough shots. Run 10 strings with your G21 and 10 with the Sig. Time and score each string. Throw out the best and worst string with each gun. This test will give you a pretty good indication of which gun you shoot the best. I did this same test with a 9mm Kimber vs a G35. It felt like I was very fast and smooth with the Kimber. When I shot the G35 I felt slower. OTOH when I totaled up the scores my time was a good bit lower with the Glock. The G21 can be shot in all three Divisions. A G21 at a 135 pf makes a pretty good SSP gun.

The chamber diameter was too small. I was getting a 25% FTF rate. Rounds that would fall into the Glock barrel would not chamber in the LWD. I had a conversation with JR at LWD yesterday about this issue.

There are better choices for CDP. Sigs and HKs are known for their high bore axis.