fastshooter03

I don't want my hand holding the shotgun anywhere near the trigger in case something goes wrong and then gets worse. I load with the weak had holding the gun right at the end of the receiver and load with the strong hand. If something goes wrong with the reload and a round pops up off the gate and sticks, I can squeeze my weak hand fingers to push the round back into the gun and keep loading rather that dump the whole thing and start over. Of course nothing ever goes wrong at a match, especially the bigger ones. Nick

There is no way you can get the trimming burr off the case by vibratory deburring without aggressively cutting the rest the the case. Don't even try it. Or do try it and tell us what happens . Nick

Are you going to be using an expander ball with your bushing sizer die or are you going to be turning your case necks? If you size your neck on the outside only without uniforming your neck thicknes, you will be seating your bullets off center due to varying neck thickness. Your rifle may not like this accuracy wise or it could not matter if your rifle isn't that accurate to begin with. I think Redding sells a few different bushing type dies. IMO you would be better off with a normal die especially if you're going to be shooting your 223 out of an AR. Nick

I'm selling a p16 lda 40 in the classifieds. It is a standard not limited model. Nick

What do you consider long range? AT the CMMG match this year I had a first shot center hit on the 320 yd bonus steel. It was a good size steel round. 55 grain blitzkings I believe. Nick

I had 2 that I sold after putting in Magpul followers. The Magpul followers had to be trimmed to fit without having to press them into the mag body. So my guess is the inside of the mag body is tight. If you like the stock green followers you probably won't have a problem. Nick

I have a good source for Meopta 1-4 k-dots if anyone is interested. Please PM for a price. Nick

I replaced the charging handle and stock on one for a friend and the charging handle is much weaker in the front area compared to a MIL-SPEC piece. I don't remember their prices being anything cheaper than what I could get from RRA or Dpms. Note: I have not seen the friends upper fail in any way SO FAR but it is only used 2-3 time a year maybe 75-100 rds each session. Nick

Do an internet search for "sightlink Front sight" . That'll get you close. You can refine from there if you don't like the companies that come up. You can get them with 3 different dot sizes. There are others that some pros like Ted Puente use but I can't remember the company. That style has a fiber optic behind a machined hole to control the dot size and shape. Nick

I wonder if the results would change with barrel length? Nick

Miculek comps usually have an exit hole bigger than 1/4" which gives you at least .012" per side on bullet clearance if the threads are done right. They have very short length of thread so you can't use just a peel washer. I think they are mass produced on a multi-axis lathe so it is doubtfull that it is that far out of whack but YOU NEVER KNOW UNTIL YOU INSPECT IT. Whenever somebody I know wants/has a miculek comp I will take it and cut the threads all the way to the first port so you can install with a peel washer and save about 5/16" worth of OAL on your barrel. It also allows for cleaning of the crown. I will also add a couple of top holes too just to make it interesting. If you know a machinist, see if he/she can help you out. A machinist should be able to tell you if the thru hole and threads are indeed concentric/straight as well. I charge $20 per brake to do both the thread lengthening and extra holes at whatever position(righty or lefty) you want. I make my own brakes but the miculek version is very cost effective for it's performance. Normally. Nick

If you mount a j-point/optima close enough to your face it will work as well but it probably won't look as nice as a c-more. I have an extended rail that brings the scope mounting surface back past the charging handle and then a 45 degree mount to the right with an Optima on top. It works well with a straight tube scope(no bell) but the lense and dot are sorta fuzzy. But for 50 yds it doesn't matter too much I guess. Nick

Vhit N330 6.4 grains behind 125 tmjrn wsr 1.185"oal = 1360 AVE FPS in Nowlin barreled 5" open gun 10 ft form muzzle. CED Millenium chrono. Not very loud for an open gun. This is our first 9 major blaster and I am impressed that it was so easy to make major. Not sure about reliability feeding and ejecting though. Probably won't use it for anything but local shoots for now. Fastshooter03

How popular is this rifle? Anyone using a MS for MOR matches? I have 3 in various calibers but was thinking of selling the 308 to get a semi-auto or higher capacity bolt. The mags hold 5 but it'd be nice to have more. I've never shot a real MOR match just the local sniper stuff. Is there a lot of time to reload after 5 rds or would having a bigger mag be worth it? Thanks for any experienced opinions in advance. Fastshooter

Does the Uspsa have a mag tube capacity restriction for Open class? I was under the impression that you could only start with 10 or 10+1 and after the buzzer load up to whatever your tube capacity might be. Trying to get legal for the Multi-Gun. Fastshooter

Every year this match is great fun and reminds me how out of shape I am! This year was the best prize table I've ever seen! Probably the best run match I can remember as well! Staff was friendly and fair as usual! I hope to be there again next year! Nick Kalishek DVC

My 7 rd stainless tubes will only go to local people I know to "Rent". So if there's anyone going to Area 5 or Tri-Gun, I may be willing to rent them to you. Fastshooter03

You must really trust your Wife! I don't even trust Myself loading mags! Fastshooter

We often discussed starting a stage with a tube on the ramp in some fashion but never tested the theory. Was thinking of using a rubber band or something that would break away but have enough force to keep the tube on the chute all without jamming things up or getting in the way. Is there a rule that says you can't hold a tube on the gun with one of your hands before the buzzer and then go for it? Maybe we just need a tecloader magazine attached to the chute and when you strip one, another one springs into place. Just like an AR mag! Might have to experiment before the tri-gun Fastshooter03

I use a forster bonanza press for all my rifle sizing. If I'm really bored I'll rotate the case 180 degrees and resize. I've tried rifle sizing on the 650 and it just seemed to take a little more effort than I like. I do use the dillon if I need to size a bunch of cases with my dillon electric casetrimmer. For anybody using a dillon electric casetrimmer, the die dillon uses squeezes the neck so you need to run them back thru a sizing die after trimming or any neck thickness variation will be transferred to the inside of the neck to mess with your neck tension. I also use two forster seating dies in the last two stations of the press to try and cut down on OAL variation issues. The second die is set to push the bullet done only .001" past the first. Buy a case base to bullet ogive measuring tool and see how much variation you have. You'll probably be surprised. The dillon die head moves up and down as well. I try to use paper shims to tighten it up. Just make sure you can get the pins back in. This might be overkill for most AR shooters with 5.56 chambers but you may feel better about your loads. I am using 223 chambers now. The first time I accuracy tested my new 223 ARs this year, I was pretty impressed with 3 different "just pick it and go" loads. The gauge you MUST HAVE is something to measure your case base to shoulder(headspace). Primer must be out or filed flat to measure accurately. I know a lot of people who don't use a headspace gauge(caliper attachment or die with indicator) and wonder how they can do it. They're usually the ones who have problems all the time. You need to measure your fired cases to see what size your chamber is. Then set your sizing die to push back the shoulder .001-.003" . Jamming tight a case that is too long for your chamber is not fun in an AR. You'll be beating the charging handle open hoping it won't break! If you have more than one AR or 223, chances are you have more than 1 headspace to deal with. If you're going to use ammo in more than 1 gun, Make Sure it fits the tightest chamber If you use varget or any other extruded powder on the 650, you must be very careful that the powder doesn't get bunched up in the powder drop funnel. It's a pain in the $%# when you notice too late that the case isn't full and then powder starts falling all over the press! Slow down your press upstroke so the powder falls a little slower. Any specific questions let me know. Fastshooter03

Works great on my Open 11-87 shotgun. I don't think it will work with the Arrendondo speedloader chute though. Grip sticks down too far. I made my own chute so it doesn't matter. Never had rounds come out of the stock holders. But now I don't put anything in them but maybe an "ohh crap!" round or two. Fastshooter

Tried mine out for the first time at a 3-gun match this past weekend and it's going to take some getting used to! The reset travel is actually too short and too light for me to get fast double taps off conistently at 3lbs. I'm going to try increasing the pull weight to get some feeling back. If that doesn't work it'll have to go into another lower not intended for speed shooting. Fastshooter

You said it was a used tube right? Uppers are not index threaded so they will all be different. The previous user or Rock River most likely put the tube on, then drilled and tapped for the bipod stud. You'll have to do the same if the hole won't line up and you want a correctly aligned bipod. The other option is to buy a 3-piece tube setup like Les Baer or Sabre Defense. The gap between the upper and tube is normal as the tube is bottoming out on the barrel extension flange. If the tube would hit the upper, the barrel would be loose. I use the Dpms claw, I think it's called that, and it works very well. It is easier to use than the clamp type. You just drop the upper onto the claw(which is in a vise) and push the pins in like it was on your lower. Go as tight as it takes to line up a gas tube hole with the upper after you've tightened it till it stops moving freely. Be careful with the antiseize as it is very messy and will go everywhere if you use too much and get it on your hands. Put something white behind the upper so you can look down the barrel and tube to see when the holes are lined up. Fastshooter

Out at the range last weekend I couldn't figure out why one of my new uppers starting not cycling at all. Put in a different carrier assembly and had no problems. Stuck an allen wrench into the carrier key hole(gas tube hole) of the nonfunctional piece and it only went 2/3 the proper distance. Upon further inspection: A PRIMER WENT INTO THE CARRIER KEY HOLE!!!!!!!! I can't believe the bolt would even close and fire in such a situation but it did. The primer had to be drilled out. Cases where once fired Winchester police rounds if anyone is curious with a hot but safe load. The odds must be 22.3 billion to 1!!! Has anyone else had this happen????? Fastshooter03

I bought a couple to see how they compare to the 4-rd aluminum extensions I make. Can't go wrong for only $5 right?? Wrong! I like Ace stocks but I can't reccommend the 5 rd extension. The "Wire" that holds the plastic extension on is very small in diameter if you can actually line it up how they want you to. You'd have to be very lucky for them to be installed right and then hope that they'd actually stay on. Sorry Ace. Fastshooter