fastshooter03

+1 on the Magpul follower. Just TRY and tilt it!!! Fastshooter

Aftecs usually require some blending in the lower corner area where the case rim slides up and into place to make it feed perfectly smooth. Not too much though. Just enough so the edge of the Aftec won't scrape or catch sharply on the rim of the case as it's feeding up from the mag. Of course install and test before you do any mods. All guns and parts are different. Fastshooter03

It's more like belt sanding than stoning! I do an inexpensive trigger job for myself and local guys who don't want to spend big money. The hammer gets cut down on the sear hook and lightened like a JP. The trigger requires less or no sanding, just smoothing out. The disconnector needs to be carefully ground down to work with the new, shorter sear hooks. You are making the safe operation window build into a stock trigger very small. You should have a dedicated trigger/hammer fixture for working outside the lower as you'll need to take them out and back in frequently and if you're not completely in understanding of how a safe AR trigger is supposed to work, don't even try it. Results are 3-5 lbs depending on springs with a much shorter pull and reset similar to an original JP adjustable. Fastshooter03

I agree with cutting an 20" down to 18". I would go with a standard rifle length gas system at 18". A machinist or gunsmith could easily cut, crown, and thread that barrel in whatever crown and thread you want. I currently offer three different thread sizes for my local shooters in need. I like taking as little off the barrel diameter as possible. Of course the larger thread sizes require custom brakes unless you can find one you like in brownells. My two new Open 3-guns I'll be using this year have lightened under handguard bull barrels with 7/8-20 threads in 17" and 17.5" length rifle length gas with brakes I made. One is a DPMS and the other is a made-from-blank broughten 5c. Haven't taken any pictures yet. Need to get some serious rounds through them before the CMMG. Fastshooter03

Thanks for the great info. I just looked at a picture album from the 06 DPMS Tri-Gun that was sent to me and found myself doing a reload. Sans bipod of course. Fastshooter03

I haven't shot a USPSA rules event before. Must a bipod be left on for the duration of the match or can it be swapped out at the shooter's discretion? Fastshooter03

Here's my Open gun with my old speedloader chute and old mag tube. I'll have my new stuff at the CMMG match. Fastshooter03

I use that scope on my Open AR but haven't shot past 200yds. The closest I use it for maybe 25yds if the array goes further out or if I have to get close to some no-shoots. I won't use anything with more power and a bell objective as it interferes with my red dot sight picture. No complaints from me using it for that purpose. However, shooting at close targets can be disorienting and/or slower than using a true 1 power. I let tact optic guys try it and they had a hard time being really fast at close range. If Leupold made a true 1x-5x and 2x-10x in that same platform with a brighter reticle, tact optic guys and open guys like me would be very happy. I also stay with the lower power in Open in case the red dot goes down the river. I think the previous posters had it right about the range to sight in being 200yds. Make a ballistic chart for your load and figure out where you will be hitting on the reticle for multiple variable long range targets and wind compensation. Fastshooter03

What class are you going to shoot in?? Do you get over to the Holmen(La Crosse) 3-Gun in WI being in SE Minnesota? Fastshooter03

hey everyone. I've Been following this thread because a local shooter is trying to make a 9 major out of a Para. I cut his slide back because he wanted to used the factory barrel threaded for a comp. It has one of those comps with the top holes only and the cast-in expansion chambers. The gun just won't reliably cycle for more than 3 rds. I'm guessing we're not using the right powder or bullet weight or both. I haven't got the current info of what loads were tried because I'm not personally doing the testing. I do know it has the lightest recoil spring available in it with absolutely no binding or tightness in any of the fitting along with lightening cuts on the slide. What bullet weight should be used? What powders will give the best cycling? I don't think we have any of the powders listed. thanks Fastshooter03

I like to make my own adjustable gas blocks that use stock gas tubes cut off and threaded so they bleed less gas so I really don't need to go through JP. Although I do have a JP block I purchased from a friend a while back I could try. While I'm sure JP could offer some experience with lightened carriers and buffers and so on, I like to tinker around and test ideas. If they offer no real advantage, the idea is scrapped. As far as screwed up parts go, there's nothing that can be damaged unless I throw it away. My buffers are a little longer .005" than standard. Measure once and cut 5 times. Fastshooter03

Funny you should say something about this. I am making a drop-in spacer plug with 3 1" long SHIMS so you can vary your spring length by using a car buffer in a rifle length tube. It is much easier to make a car buffer out of stainless or whatever to vary the weight. As soon as it warms up I'll be testing it for usefullness combined with an adjustable gas block. fastshooter03

I skipped a few pages cuz I don't have time to read everything so someone might have already said this. In WI last year the two major matches(Sectionals and Area 5) were trophy and maybe cash to the winners with a random prize table. Random because some of the SPONSORS asked for it or they wouldn't donate. I just go by the saying"better lucky than good". I take what I can get cuz I have no say in the matter. If I don't like the way something is run, I won't go to/do it. It's an expensive sport to say the least. Fastshooter03

Two friends who went to the Shot Show said they were really Sweet. I'll have mine in March. Fastshooter03

Holy crap! $400 for 3 tubes! Wow, maybe I should revisit my plans to make some. I had deemed it too costly at the time, but I didn't know how much it'd be to buy. Yeah, I should've been more descriptive about "tubes". I remember now that the UK also has pistol tubes. Sorry for any confusion. Chris, I'll PM you a picture and description this Afternoon. There is a problem with attaching the chute to the triggerguard in the obvious best location(middle). It houses the hammer spring and follower. I found out the "cut and notice something odd" way. If I tighten the set screws down too hard, it won't release the hammer. That's why I was thinking of relocating the attachment point to the trigger housing pins like the speedloader bracket. I'll have to look at it again and see if there's enough meat to put a bolt through the triggerguard in a different location. Fastshooter03

Chris, I would say shoot without a dot on your scattergun and see if you like it. You can always add it later. I drilled and tapped my 11-87 rib and put on a $5 weaver base with a channel cut to match the rib. On top of that I have an OPtima, Yes Optima. It is higher than a JP sightline mount but it works out OK. I have tried two different clamp on mounts and they don't work for crap! You might want to hold off on an arrendondo chute. I might be making some of my design that you'd much prefer. That Nordic component +8 mag tube looks really cool. I'll have to get one. I'm having problems with my current +5 tube spring being just a little light. Anyone know who makes the best cut to length or precut spring that would work with the new +8 tube? Also, where should I get the Nordic tube from? I see Brownells has some but not the +8. Chris, I know you know Ronnie Casper. Will I see you at Holmen this year? Fastshooter03

Does anyone else make a speedloader chute that's currently available? I designed and made my own a week before the '06 DPMS Tri-Gun which worked good for me and was thinking about making some additional pieces with a more standardized attachment. I've got mine set screwed to the trigger guard!? Mine is slightly different in a way I think everyone would want but I won't release the info quite yet. I've also been looking for the UK stainless high cap tubes and can't seem to find them on the Net. Do they have a website that you can buy them off of? I'm surprised I haven't heard of somebody here in the US making them? Fastshooter03

Thanks guys. Just have to figure out which one to get. Fastshooter03

Basically you have to drill out the remaining material to the first port and then tap it. My procedure is to set it up in a v-block in a vise, indicate the OD to find center, Drill 1/64" under, ream to .461", then tap to the first port. I also add a couple of vertical holes in the front two ports later on. Fastshooter03

If you do get an AR, Stick with a Mid-Length or Rifle(Standard) length gas system. The 16" Carbine gas block location has too much pressure. My personal choice for Open class is to cut back a standard 20" upper to have a 16-17" barrel. I've also seen rifles that way for other classes just not as often. I haven't had any cycling problems in two years of 3-gun. Worked good enough to win the long rifle stage at the 2006 DPMS Tri-Gun. Fastshooter03

I've been searching the net for a price on Ace AR stocks that's actually less than retail. They have been hard to come by. Anybody have a good supplier who has both good prices and good service? Fastshooter03