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Airsoft Plate Racks


Skywalker

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Well,

I know having that much time in my hands I should've spent it practicing, instead of tinkering, but ... it's fun as well... :)

Of course I don't happen to have the woodworking ability of other forum members ( :) ), but anyway here it is: my airsoft home-training range:

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And then, for fun with friends on summer sundays:

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Now I can even practice in my basement! :)

Edited by Skywalker
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Looks good. What did you make the plates out of?

Had a friend of mine cut a 3" diameter bar of Nylon to slices approx 1/4" thick. It's incredible stuff: normal plastic, or even wall, would be dented by the BBs, while these plates show no impact signs at all ... :blink:

The rest of the material is plywood and some furniture building stuff (hinges and pre-drilled slabs).

Edited by Skywalker
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Looks great! I want one!

Now for the lazy ones on the group, like me...you just need to add a "pull-reset" feature and you will have a winner! Actually, if you could rig that up, I'd seriously think about buying one of these from you. Keep us posted.

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Currently working on this ... ;)

Unfortunately it can't be a "shoot this to reset the whole plate rack" gizmo, since a BB pellet, even if travelling @ 300+fps won't simply have enough kinetic energy (to be converted in work) to raise all 6 plates... :(

But a nice hinged bar with pull-to-reset rope should do it... B)

Planned for next weekend. I'll keep you posted.

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Dangit man, I wish you'd posted this yesterday.. I had a free day in the shop.. now I may have to wait for another weekend. ;)

Seriously that looks cool. I feel the need to program up a poly mini popper in the CNC..

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Thanks to all guys, I'm almost flattered ...

Since it looks like y'all liked it, I'm attaching hereby a zip file with Powerpoint presentation on drawings and specs for the 6-plates rack.

Softair_Plate_Racks_Specs.zip

Hope this will help you in building them. ;)

I feel the need to program up a poly mini popper in the CNC..

That would be really great!

I mean, the hinges and slabs concept could work with everything, and if you reverse the hinge, using a longer bottom bolt and a closer front shield, you could even have a workable calibration system for your poppers... ;)

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I feel the need to program up a poly mini popper in the CNC..

That would be really great!

I mean, the hinges and slabs concept could work with everything, and if you reverse the hinge, using a longer bottom bolt and a closer front shield, you could even have a workable calibration system for your poppers... ;)

Here ya go. a 10" tall 'Metric' airsoft popper

post-1846-1144819176.jpg

The plate is made out of a chunk of 3/8" poly cutting board I had lying around. At that thickness, you actually need to calibrate it or it won't fall if it's too far forwards.

10" Popper outline DXF available on request

My second shot at this thing bounced back and hit me square in the forehead, just above my safety glasses.. :o be sure you've got 'em if you shoot plastic plates with an airsoft.

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But.. my second shot at this thing bounced back and hit me square in the forehead, just above my safety glasses.. be sure you've got 'em if you shoot plastic plates with an airsoft.

Nice popper, Shred! :oB)

Can you provide the DXF file (luca.zolla@galileoavionica.it)? I'd like to try and have it cut out of a thinner sheet, and hinged at the base.

Concerning the goggles, you're absolutely right.

There is simply no way I'd shoot airsoft without my shooting glasses, since bouncebacks and ricochets are more than frequent.

I suspect this has something to do with poly targets, since I am getting more ricochets from these than from hits on wood or concrete.

It appears (to me) that this stuff is slinging back the BB instead of getting deformed and cushioning the impact somehow.

I will experiment a bit with target face angulation, to see if I can get the ricochet directed downwards or upwards, instead of straight back... :wacko:

Edited by Skywalker
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There is simply no way I'd shoot airsoft without my shooting glasses, since bouncebacks and ricochets are more than frequent.

I suspect this has something to do with poly targets, since I am getting more ricochets from these than from hits on wood or concrete.

It appears (to me) that this stuff is slinging back the BB instead of getting deformed and cushioning the impact somehow.

Plastic is an incredibly efficient reflector of bullets. When I used to work in a plastics injection molding shop, somebody took a polycarbonate "purge patty" - which is what they shoot out of the injection barrel to clean it out prior to molding parts (looks like a giant cow patty) - took it out to the woods and shot it with a 44 mag. Fortunately they were far enough away, because the shooter took a full 44 mag slug directly in the chest on the rebound.

One thing you could do is put a buffer of some sorts between the plate and the hinge. That would allow the plate to move and absorb some of the energy.

Bitchin' rack. I may be buying an airsoft yet. B)

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I did a little experimenting tonight on anti-riccochet coatings for the mini popper (I also found steel, kydex & hardwood targets have very similar bb-reflecting properties)

Rubber and other bouncy stuff is out-- the elastic collision gets even more elastic. Foam works ok, especially denser foam. The best so far has been a layer of target cardboard with a couple layers of duct-tape over it-- smashing through the tape takes some energy, and the cardboard provides a standoff from the hard plate. Still not an ideal solution, but it's a direction to for more experiments.

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One thought on reducing bounce back... Make the targets just, say, 1/4" or 1/2" wide outlines. Cover with cardboard - two layers, or board and tape or whatever... In theory, the tape and cardboard might soak up enough energy to tip over, but still let the BB pass through, or get stuck, or something??

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Bitchin' rack. I may be buying an airsoft yet. B)

Eric,

it all boils down to how much access you have to live fire.

I am in the situation where the closest range and shooting facility is 55 Km (35 miles) from home, and very few time to dedicate to it (I can livefire train no more than 3/4 times per month).

Forcefully, I had to find another way to train: Steve's book helped a lot, and now I can both dryfire and softair in my basement twice per week at evening, when my family is already asleep... :)

But, if you just want to have some fun, I'll definitely recommend it.

All,

I'll be experimenting as well with reducing bouncebacks as suggested, and will keep you updated. ;)

Edited by Skywalker
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It's not exactly the same thing but, when we were kids, my brother and I shot the plastic bullets that CCI makes, they use primers to propel a plastic wadcutter. A big cardboard box (easy to find the bullet) behind foam cups made a pretty good shooting range. Not as cool looking as the rack and popper though, nice work.

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jmorris,

I have them, and have played with them for a bit, but I found out that they're most useful for outdoor plinking, 'cuz they they have too many drawbacks.

First, and most important, either you are willing to shoot wearing a face mask, or after some 10/20 rounds your basement is going to be a gas room from the primers smoke ... :wacko:

Second, they work well with revolvers, but with bottomfeeders they're a PITA to load... <_<

Third, I usually train im my basement after 10 p.m. while my family is asleep, and they'd be no longer sleeping if I were to use them... ;)

Edited by Skywalker
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  • 2 months later...

You guys were talking about doing the airsoft in your basement. Isn't there a concern about all the confined propane gas that would be building up around your heater and water heater (that have a pilot light/flame)? ...Obviously if you don't have a gas heater/water heater, then you probably don't have a problem. However, if you do..... :wacko:

Darren

Edited by ExtremeShot
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Darren,

I have a heater/water heater with pilot flame in my basement and I do share your concerns, truly.

Up to now my training regimen consisted of 5, maybe 6, full mags (150/180 BBs) per session, and I guess the total amount of propane I released into the confined area of my basement was not enough to create problems.

I do however keep the window open.

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Cool. One other thought...the builders of my house installed a "cold air return" in my basement to help with humidity problems that basements normally have. If you have one of these also, it would probably be a good idea to close it or tape it up. Otherwise it would be sucking up the propane and running it through the heater.

By the way, how are those plates working out? I really like the idea, however, I'd like to figure out a way to get the BB to just drop off the plate so I could collect them in something underneath.

Darren

Darren,

I have a heater/water heater with pilot flame in my basement and I do share your concerns, truly.

Up to now my training regimen consisted of 5, maybe 6, full mags (150/180 BBs) per session, and I guess the total amount of propane I released into the confined area of my basement was not enough to create problems.

I do however keep the window open.

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