RevolverJockey Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I am looking to get into revolver, and stumbled across this: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem....?Item=153567872 What is the story with these. Seller says it started life as a model of 1989 625. Would this be a good platform? I noticed it has a hammer mounted firing pin. Any info would be appreciated. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mainus Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Loks like an older 625. Not sure of the years when they switched from hammer mounted firing pin to the frame mounted. Pinnacle is one of the best revolver smiths out there. He has done a number of guns for me and his work is top notch. Looks like they took a regular 625 with a full lug and milled some metal off of the bottom of the barrel. Should be a good gun for USPSA. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Mitch, I had a 625 Model of 1989. I could not keep my bullets from tumbling. Until I changed my barrel, then all was well except how I shot it. NOT all of the 1989 barrels were a problem, and mine may not have been but I changed it and the sympton went away. The nose pin on the hammer was never a problem. It does look nice though with the metal removed from the barrel. Good luck with your decission. Later rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Most barrel problems on Smiths relate to forcing cone or muzzle crown. A lot of times recutting these properly (no need to remove the barrel) will make it shoot accurately. The other common problem is when the barrel is screwed in too tight and is smaller diameter in the frame than the rest of the barrel. That can be fixed by firelapping or removing the barrel and cutting the back face of the barrel a couple thou. so it doesn't screw in so tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 I appreciate the replies, but waht does it all mean? Are these worth having? Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 The quality was a little up and down back then. They can be as good as any, but sometimes need a little work to bring them into spec. If you can get a good deal on one and are willing to detail it out, it's worth getting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 The quality was a little up and down back then. They can be as good as any, but sometimes need a little work to bring them into spec.If you can get a good deal on one and are willing to detail it out, it's worth getting. I don't think there is any "dealing" on this one, it is an auction and I think the buy now is 750$.. I was more curious how the quality stands up to say a new -8, or a certain era over another one. If it ends up being something I like, it will be seeing a lot of rounds would rather spend the money now then later. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calishootr Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 it was made back when S&W were going thru their 'upgrade' phase, from hand fit to CNC, so the quality left a lil to be desired, ive got one, had tuend by a friend of mine who used to do Bianchi cup guns,and PPC guns, strapped on a tasco PDP3, I'm really happy with it, on occasion i surprise myself by hitting 5 out of 6 plates on a plate rack at 50 yrds with it, tho back in the day i paid quite a bit less for it than 750.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Pinnacle work is top notch as I have had him do a number of revolvers for me. You might want to check on the milling of the barrel to make sure that is allowed in USPSA. They might only allow stock barrels with only recrowning and work on the forcing cone along with sights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 We re-wrote those rules, Dean. In USPSA, you can run any barrel you want, as long as it's not ported or comped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Shows you how much I stay up on the rules. I might have my barrel milled down just for something to do. You know its not all about how you shoot but how you look. Look at Cliff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 thats a fine looking rev..buy it,,wish I had the money Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atlscrog Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 I thought hammer mounted fireing pins are desirable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mainus Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 I thought hammer mounted fireing pins are desirable? In the hands of a good revolver smith, they can get a frame mounted firing pin action lighter than the hammer mounted ones. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brynjulv Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Most barrel problems on Smiths relate to forcing cone or muzzle crown. A lot of times recutting these properly (no need to remove the barrel) will make it shoot accurately. The other common problem is when the barrel is screwed in too tight and is smaller diameter in the frame than the rest of the barrel. That can be fixed by firelapping or removing the barrel and cutting the back face of the barrel a couple thou. so it doesn't screw in so tight. Lifting this. Got a 625-8 that measures ,450" at the threads and ,451" at the muzzle. It's got a ,001" threadchoke. If the barrel is unscrewed will i spring to original its dimension or has it been permanently "crimped" to some degree? I've only firelapped a ,22 lr rfle in desperation and it improved a lot but removing a ,001" by firelapping seems a lot. My plan is to have a gunsmith fix this by reinstalling the barrel but I guess I just need a second opinion on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 (edited) Most barrel problems on Smiths relate to forcing cone or muzzle crown. A lot of times recutting these properly (no need to remove the barrel) will make it shoot accurately. The other common problem is when the barrel is screwed in too tight and is smaller diameter in the frame than the rest of the barrel. That can be fixed by firelapping or removing the barrel and cutting the back face of the barrel a couple thou. so it doesn't screw in so tight. Lifting this. Got a 625-8 that measures ,450" at the threads and ,451" at the muzzle. It's got a ,001" threadchoke. If the barrel is unscrewed will i spring to original its dimension or has it been permanently "crimped" to some degree? I've only firelapped a ,22 lr rfle in desperation and it improved a lot but removing a ,001" by firelapping seems a lot. My plan is to have a gunsmith fix this by reinstalling the barrel but I guess I just need a second opinion on this. When you have the gunsmith set the barrel back (what Toolguy is talking about) it will go back to it's original dimension and improve accuracy. Toolguy told me about this a while back and recently I purchased an older L frame with a 2.5" barrel. While recutting the forcing cone and crown I noticed the brass collet that comes with the kit would get stuck at the barrel thread area (a very noticeable constriction). I removed and set the barrel back, I removed enough material so the barrel could be secured hand tight with red locktite. After this the collet slipped through easily and the accuracy improved dramatically. The original was barrel was cut so that it was very tight with a little more that 1/4 turn left to tighten. So essentially what's happening is the bullet travels from the cylinder into the forcing cone at .357 then is constricted to .355. when the rest of the barrel to the crown is .357. This leads to poor obturation and accuracy especially in a short barrel. I think this is where the idea of Taylor Throating originated it essentially makes a longer forcing cone past the constriction. I would have the barrel set back instead of removing material from inside the barrel. Edited December 3, 2012 by toothguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brynjulv Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 Thank You Toothguy. Gunsmith next for a setback barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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