Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Trigger Jobs


rmills

Recommended Posts

In regards to all of the "Race" trigger jobs out there that eliminate all of the takeup travel, I know the trigger stop lever on the trigger is still active, but is the drop safety plunger still utilized with a modified trigger bar?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mills,

If the striker interlock plunger isn't functional, I wouldn't want to be anywhere nearby if it ever gets dropped while loaded. No one should ever allow this to be done to a Glock.

Any good competition trigger job on a Glock will leave both safety features fully functional. I have however used trigger setups on my Glocks in the past that would not return the trigger fully when tension is released after cycling with the trigger fully depressed. That is not a real problem to worry over. But I would never abide by a Glock trigger that didn't fully reset itself when cocked without the trigger being held depressed, thats a problem waiting to happen.

One of the nicer feeling triggers I had in a Glock was the first Competition trigger job I ever had in my 17L back in 1989. It was a homebrew job where I just trimmed 2 coils from the return spring and dryfired it a few thousand times to smooth the striker up. Real light, nice & smooth, just not recommended for the general public because the reset was a little limp ;-)

Nowadays, spring kits, proper striker profiling and so on will do much better than a hack like I described. Have Novak, JP, or someone else who specializes in Glock triggers do it for you. Take it from me, hacking triggers is not for the novice, I was lucky and mine turned out to be OK in the long run, but nowadays I let a good Glock smith do stuff like that for me.

Regards,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In regards to all of the "Race" trigger jobs out there that eliminate all of the takeup travel, I know the trigger stop lever on the trigger is still active, but is the drop safety plunger still utilized with a modified trigger bar?

All the pre-travel can't be completely eliminated on a Glock like a 1911 and the safeties still function. But a competent and knowledgeable person that knows what it takes to do can reduce it considerably and keep the safeties intact.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've worked on my Glock triggers for the last 10 years. I've done some extremely reliable and functional tuning in my time (from light and smooth for IDPA, to no pre-travel takeup for USPSA). My question about triggers was in regards to safeties. In the case where I removed all pre-travel, the only intact safety was the lever bar on the trigger ( the lever itself was modified to keep it functional). In seeing a lot of the "Trigger" jobs being offered by Novak's and others, I was just curious as to whether or not anyone had come up with a creative way to still keep the drop safety working (maybe a high gain angled cut on the trigger bar?). I'm going to check the USPSA rules in regards to safeties. As much as I would like to build an Open Glock (I shot SVI Open pistols for years, a Glock Open pistol intrigues me), I want to make certain that it would be considered legal.

:wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gunner5 did an awesome trigger job on my G35. It's so good that my new Advantage Arms .22 top end just needed a little polishing on the striker and the drop safety plunger and it now has under a 2lb pull, too. All the safeties work.

Polish method: Flitz and a cotton wheel for Dremel tool. Use the Flitz WET only.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi,

I just did a "trigger job" on my G17 as well. After a year of intensive shooting I decided to really thoroughly clean my gun during the past holidays. After that, I noticed that my trigger pull had increased and was not so smooth anymore. Probably because I had completely degreased all parts in the trigger mechanism. So I took the gun apart and polished all touching metal parts of the trigger mechanism. And when reassembling the trigger mechanism, I applied a little bit of grease on the touching / sliding metal parts.

The result was amazing ! The total force needed to pull the trigger has decreased and the pull is much smoother.

As I shoot IPSC PD this is the only thing I am allowed to do to my trigger, but I don't even want to do more. I don't want any risk of compromising the reliability and I have no problems handling some pounds of trigger pull (I shoot some wheelguns too ;) ).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regardless of the trigger job obtained, I do not like reduced power striker springs. Many of the ultra-light triggers will ignite most primers, but will not ingite all primers and certainly not high primers (and you will have a high primer sometime).

IMO, a FGC must be reliable, first and foremost - even with the ocasional high primer. The ultra-light trigger jobs are not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Charlie Vaneks trigger job will light any primer including small rifle. While he does use a reduced power striker spring he also has a secret modification that greatly reduces the weight of the trigger (down to 1.5#'s) and changes the way the trigger feels. Ask anybody with charlies trigger, it lights all primers reliably.

From my experience a reduced power striker spring alone will not cause significantly lighter strikes. A reduced power striker spring and a skeltonized striker will. If you go this route you will have to go to federal primers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yar - I disagree. I have a trigger job done by Charlie and it did not ignite 100%. I put the stock striker spring back in and now everything ignites.

It's still a good trigger, but now it's reliable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Charlie if you recall I had that chipped striker. While it still light all primers I found that my primer hits looked deeper after I switched out to a new one.

Chp5 could you possibly have a chipped striker?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It could be a couple of things. As I said before send me the top end and give me a chance to see what might be the problem. I can't correct it by guessing. If you don't have confidence in the light striker spring that's OK and if the stock spring works with high primers then we have a 100% reliable gun with a 2 lb. trigger.

Charlie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

It’s funny I have had all types of trigger jobs done from CGR, Vanek and Novak and to date I have found that Vanek’s trigger is by far the best and most reliable when using any type or brand of primer I cant say the same of the other two.

I did run into a problem with the Vanek trigger lighting small rifle primers but that was with a Glock that was using a Caspian slide. The issue seems to arise from different tolerances between the striker channels of the Caspian and Glock slides. To resolve the problem I removed the lightened striker spring and installed a factory striker spring. Once that was done the problem went away but I ended up with a two pound trigger instead of a 1 ¼ pound.

When time permits I will be sending the Caspian slide back to Charlie so he can address the problem

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...