Yar

The stock glock barrel has a much looser chamber. It feeds just about all ammo, including fat ammo. A match barrel like a kkm, or barsto has a tight chamber. If you reload your own ammo you'll need to case guage/chamber check your ammo, I also recommend a Lee factory crimp die. If you run a match chamber and have a bunch of fat rounds mixed in your ammo you'll have a pretty disapointing match. If you shoot only factory ammo you can disregard the above.

The Glock is plenty acurrate as is. Changing the barrel will be marginal. I would recommend changing the sights and trigger. Charlie Vanek aka Gunner5 does the best Glock trigger job. Breaks at 1.5 lbs will all safties intact, lights all primers including small rifle. Dawson precision sights are the best drop in adjustables. You even get all the tools to install them yourself, though I would not use the rear sight punch they include.

Charlie has a secret modification. I won't say what it is. It is not a easy modification to do, and there is a real possibility you would do it wrong. It does give you a 1.25 lbs trigger with factory parts (except springs).

It's all about the reset. You'll shoot faster and more accurately if you shoot from the reset. The pre-travel is there just as added protection if you do something stupid like pick up the gun off a table with your finger on the trigger. Incorperate shooting from the reset into your dryfire and range practice. After you dryfire hold the trigger back, then rack the slide back 1/4". Then let the trigger forward back to the reset. Dry fire as usual. At the range practice shooting and then holding the trigger back. Release the trigger back to reset, and fire the next shot.

Charlie if you recall I had that chipped striker. While it still light all primers I found that my primer hits looked deeper after I switched out to a new one. Chp5 could you possibly have a chipped striker?

Charlie Vaneks trigger job will light any primer including small rifle. While he does use a reduced power striker spring he also has a secret modification that greatly reduces the weight of the trigger (down to 1.5#'s) and changes the way the trigger feels. Ask anybody with charlies trigger, it lights all primers reliably. From my experience a reduced power striker spring alone will not cause significantly lighter strikes. A reduced power striker spring and a skeltonized striker will. If you go this route you will have to go to federal primers.

I've shot triggers from Custom Glock, Gunner5 and Tom Novak. I sent Gunner5 aka Charlie Vanek my money. Hands down the best glock trigger.

I shot a fellows usp and notice that the gun has a funny wobble in the recoil. The front sight goes up and flips side to side before falling back into the notch. I think that is due to the double recoil spring. I would recommend a IMSI 15# recoil spring.

Charlie has a secret modificiation. I will not say what it is because people would attempt to do it themselves. Some would be successful, others would ruin many many triggerbars until they got it right. It's not a easy mod to do, and it is his idea so he should benifit from it. Just drop the $$ you will not be disapointed.

The finger notches come off with no problem, I would be wary about removing material from the back strap. There are people who do grip reductions/modifications http://www.customarms.com/glock.htm that include adding material to compensate for material removed or reshaped. There are numerous instances on Glocktalk.com regarding grip modifiction.

I was reading how to check IF a glock could fire out of battery on glocktalk recently. Can't find the thread or remember the exact specifics. Something about checking where the primers on spent brass had been struck (should be fairly centered), and I believe something involving looking up the mag well with a flashlight. I'm sure Matt form CGR will be here shortly to straiten it out.

Sounds pretty dangerous! Your not running a cut or super lite recoil spring are you?

Dawson fiberoptic set, followed by sunken bomar rear with a dawson fiber front

Also check to make sure the wire nubbin from the slide stop is under the locking block pin.

I'm shooting reloads through a Glock 35 at 168 power factor. I'm very happy with my load. Another shooter recommended I water my load down to about 150 PF. The idea is that I can shoot 150 PF for practice and go back to 165PF a few weeks before a match. The lower PF will allow me to shoot faster and the POI will be very close so I won't need to adjust my sights. When I go back to major PF I will still have the speed. I admit this all sounds good, but is it realistic and practical?