Now my pistol starts to jam.

[calishootr]

back in the early 90's I used to run an indoor shooting range, and while everyone wanted a beretta 92(cuz the military just gotthem so they must begood) Glock was juuuust coming onto the scene, and we had one for a rental, and in 6 or 7 months we ran 60,000 rounds thru that gun with nary a hiccup, in 60k of rounds thru it, that gun broke a trigger return spring, fixed in 5 minuted and back out it went, buuuut this was waaay before all the aftermarket parts started to become all the rage too.....

[98sr20ve]

back in the early 90's I used to run an indoor shooting range, and while everyone wanted a beretta 92(cuz the military just gotthem so they must begood) Glock was juuuust coming onto the scene, and we had one for a rental, and in 6 or 7 months we ran 60,000 rounds thru that gun with nary a hiccup, in 60k of rounds thru it, that gun broke a trigger return spring, fixed in 5 minuted and back out it went, buuuut this was waaay before all the aftermarket parts started to become all the rage too.....

To a degree I agree. All I have changed is the striker spring and the guide rod and recoil spring. I changed to a Wolfe because the captured steel one I borrowed seemed poorly made and I had jams it it as well. I have run this Wolfe for a long time with no issues. I am going to order some more springs and see if that helps. Still have not had a chance to shoot the thing after the good cleaning I gave it.

[98sr20ve]

When installing the slide stop, you go top (locking block) pin first, then the slide stop, then the bottom (trigger pivot) pin. It is not possible to "get the spring on the wrong side of the gun." I'm thinking that what was meant was "get the spring on the wrong side of the pin." If you install the slide stop first, before the locking block pin, it's possible to wind up with the slide stop spring on top on the pin instead of under the pin. When the spring is under the pin, it's thus under spring tension holding it down until pushed up by an empty magazine's follower. If it's on top of the pin, it's not, and you tend to get premature slide lock.

Got it. I had assmbled it right. But thanks I wanted to be sure. I have some internet instructions that I use when I do a detail dissassembly.

[racerba]

It could be as simple as that the gun was a little dry. Glock do not require massive amount of lube, but it does require some.

FWIW - I use a 12Lb Wolf recoil spring and have not replaced it yet. I have had it in there for at least 3 years, most likely 4-5 years.

[Duane Thomas]

Got it. I had assmbled it right. But thanks I wanted to be sure. I have some internet instructions that I use when I do a detail dissassembly.

Have you tried replacing the extractor with a new, ideally non-LCI part?

[98sr20ve]

Got it. I had assmbled it right. But thanks I wanted to be sure. I have some internet instructions that I use when I do a detail dissassembly.

Have you tried replacing the extractor with a new, ideally non-LCI part?

Not yet, I want to test it first. I have marked all my magazines, cleaned it really well, I will start keeping a log, and making sure it was lubed well. Not saying it wasn't, but if you don't keep track how do you even know for sure it was. If it still fails then I will start ordering parts.

[Duane Thomas]

The amount of lube on a Glock really has very little if anything to do with how well it will run. One of the great advantages of the Glock over many other auto pistol designs is there's very little slide-to-frame contact area, the only places they touch are those four small metal tabs sticking out of the polymer. Compare that to the long slide/frame rails on some other guns, the Glock will run with much less in the way of lube. Put it all together, I'd say the chances of your problem being caused by "not cleaned and lubed" or being cured by cleaning and lubing, are zero percent. Sorry. Also, the sort of malfunction you describe is obviously not magazine related.

[Boats]

Everything everybody else said about cleaning and changing springs. Particularly Mags. Drop one wrong and it can go sour. Numbering them and keeping clean is the only defense

Also Last IDPA match at our club competitor had 11 malfunctions with his Glock. All with American Eagle Ammo. It's not impossible your loads are weaker than you think. Powders lot to lot are not the same and with the current primer shortage most of us have had to substitute. Watching this one fail while scoring I am convinced it was all ammo related.

Boats

[racerba]

The amount of lube on a Glock really has very little if anything to do with how well it will run. One of the great advantages of the Glock over many other auto pistol designs is there's very little slide-to-frame contact area, the only places they touch are those four small metal tabs sticking out of the polymer. Compare that to the long slide/frame rails on some other guns, the Glock will run with much less in the way of lube. Put it all together, I'd say the chances of your problem being caused by "not cleaned and lubed" or being cured by cleaning and lubing, are zero percent. Sorry. Also, the sort of malfunction you describe is obviously not magazine related.

While Glocks do not need much lube, it does need some lube. I bought a new upper and without lubing it, I took it to the range. I figure that the lube on the frame was sufficient. I was getting stove pipes left and right - every third or forth shot. So I took it apart and gave it a small amount of lube, the problem went away. So the chance of the gun being dry IS more than ZERO percent.

BTW - you also need to lube the outside of the barrel.

Edited November 1, 2009 by racerba

[Duane Thomas]

My perception was the OP was not saying "bone dry" but instead thought that cleaning and lubing an already reasonably clean and lubed gun would possibly somehow cure his falure to eject problem.

My advice:

(1) Replace the extractor; this is your most likely source of the problem.

(2) Check the overall length of the recoil spring by comparing it to a brand-new spring that's never even been in the gun. If it's been compressed more than three coils, toss it and replace with the new spring.

(3) Replacing magazine springs will have no effect on this sort of problem. Don't waste your money.

(4) If (1) and (2) don't solve the problem - and they probably will - then we're into the area of major problems, but I'll only address that at such time as (1) and (2) have failed.

[98sr20ve]

I lube my pistol every time I clean it. I clean it about once every month or two. It does vary. I lube the barrel, slide, rails. Cycle it a couple times wipe off the excess. I have done that since I had the gun. Never had problems before, I don't think it's the basic cleaning lubing routine.

I had NOT cleaned the extractor recently. If it's not something "broken/worn out" I think this is the likely issue.

I chrono regularly. I did load up some rds with more powder just to see. They always worked before at the same PF.

[Jim Taylor]

I lube my pistol every time I clean it. I clean it about once every month or two. It does vary. I lube the barrel, slide, rails. Cycle it a couple times wipe off the excess. I have done that since I had the gun. Never had problems before, I don't think it's the basic cleaning lubing routine.

I had NOT cleaned the extractor recently. If it's not something "broken/worn out" I think this is the likely issue.

I chrono regularly. I did load up some rds with more powder just to see. They always worked before at the same PF.

Mark your mags. Shoot until you have the problem. It will be that mag. Take some nippers and adjust the feed lip opening, or replace it with a new mag. It is not your extractor, lubrication, etc.

Here is how the malfunction occurs. Spread magazine feed lips allow bullet to ride a little higher in the mag. As the slide moves to the rear, the bullet in the mag contacts the case, blocking it from extraction. The extractor pulls off, leaving about half the case in the chamber and the jam you describe. This on is a real chore to clear as you well know. Glocks are pretty sloppy tolerance-wise so it won't happen every time.

Somewhere on the forum is a picture where a magazine has been adjusted like this. In a CCF thread, I believe. The CCF Raceframes are tighter and this is a more evident problem with them.

Anyway, replace the mag and all will be well in Glockland.

Best regards,

Jim Taylor

[Jim Taylor]

I lube my pistol every time I clean it. I clean it about once every month or two. It does vary. I lube the barrel, slide, rails. Cycle it a couple times wipe off the excess. I have done that since I had the gun. Never had problems before, I don't think it's the basic cleaning lubing routine.

I had NOT cleaned the extractor recently. If it's not something "broken/worn out" I think this is the likely issue.

I chrono regularly. I did load up some rds with more powder just to see. They always worked before at the same PF.

Look at mag pictures in this thread.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...7661&hl=CCF

Best regards,

Jim

[Duane Thomas]

Replacing the extractor in my gun cured my problem. I didn't replace any magazines. And, after another 24k with the same magazines, the gun is still running fine.

[Black Dog]

Did this issue ever get resolved and how ????

[RAZZ]

Just curious for those recommending the non LCI extractor...What is the difference between the two (other than the LCI raised surface)? Is there a difference in the angle, quality of the metal, something else?

Now there will be a run on old 2nd gen extractors

[twodownzero]

Gun is G34, Wolffe Guide rod, 15lb spring.

In my experience, reduced power springs need to be changed more frequently than factory springs....

You might be due....

Is a 15 lb a reduced power spring for a G34? I thought G17s and G22s both had 15 lb springs from the factory.

I'd take a look at the ejector tip as well.

[Flexmoney]

17lb is factor

[RH45]

You might also check the condition of your magazines and mag catch. Mark the magazine base pads so you can track whether the jams happen with a certain mag or mags.

At >=130pf why are you using a reduced recoil spring? Go back to the stock recoil spring assembly.

Even though my Glock 35 will run right down to 125pf with stock springs, my 34 won't run 130 pf with the stock recoil spring.