sinnsyk Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 The new H042 Trigger Pin, the H092 Sear Pin and the H046 hammer pin pin is now available along with reamers for installation. These pins doesn't wear like the factory and the sear / hammer holes need to be reamed to the new pins. After installation the hammer and the sear will sit tight in the frame and allow for an ever crisper trigger. Factory pins have slop which allows the hammer and sear to wobble. It's not huge wobble, but enough to prevent 100% consistent hammer and sear movement. These pins are made from 416 stainless steel and hardened to Rockwell 45. They will not wear and when you've upgraded your gun with the nice EGW hammer and sear you will want to make sure they are installed in the frame as tight as possible. These pins allows for that. I've written a whole article about it, with pictures showing how to install. All reamers necessary available in the shop. You probably want to use a hand reamer tool (reamer holder). I haven't sourced those yet, but as soon as I do I'll put them on the shop so it's easy to get everything you need at the same time. Check out the article and see for yourself. The new Hammer Pin Pin (H046) has a new pretty cool feature that lets you disassemble without any difficulty.. New Henning Trigger Parts Pins Article Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
askomiko Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 (edited) Yay! Looking forward to upgrading my three guns with the full trigger set. Costs as much as getting a fourth complete gun, but hey.. Life is expensive. Maybe I'd get a volume discount after four sets. Edited September 27, 2009 by askomiko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 (edited) once my Limited gun is set up with these parts I will leave some feedback. thanks for posting the tech on this.....my LImited gun is nearly all Henning parts. Edited September 28, 2009 by Mo Hepworth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 If anyone wants more than one set, please email me and I'll definitely do a deal for you. I've also made 3-packs of the hammer pin pin etc. You won't break 'em, but those little pins are easy to lose and good to have as spares. Hell, all parts are good to have as spares, just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
askomiko Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 (edited) Is it possible/easy to ruin your frame/hammer/sear while fumbling with the reamer? I just ask because.. well... not that I would have any history of ruining any parts in the past.. eh. Edited September 28, 2009 by askomiko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 (edited) No it's not possible to ruin the frame, sear or hammer with the reamer. If you are not used to working with reamers let me assure you first of all it's a pretty cool tool and it can actually make you feel like you know what the hell you are doing... ;-) A drill bit as we all have used could easily ruin parts by change the direction of the hole or make an oval hole etc. These reamers have 4 flutes and the reamer has to follow an existing hole to remove material. The only thing you should focus on when using them is to line the reamer up as well as you can with the direction of the hole. If you don't line up 100% (and you probably we won't be doing it 100% lined up) the little material removed ever so slightly off-center at the beginning won't make a difference. To run the reamer through the hole it will need to be centered as it's not a drill. Run it through the hole once, clean the part and try installing the pin. If it's tight, run the reamer again (with oil always) and the hole will eventually be 0.1200" or 0.1470" depending on which one your are reaming. We are only talking about removing a few thousands of an inch on either of the parts or frame. All parts and frame is very hard and you should use oil on the reamer to make the cutting job easier. You will need a hand chuck of some sort like shown in my article to hold the reamer. I'm trying to source a reasonable one right now. Before you do any reaming on these parts, first check the parts against the sear, sear housing, hammer and frame. You might discover that the sear pin will slide in and out of the sear housing or you can tap it in. In several cases, the sear housing is already big enough and won't need reaming. In some instances I've noticed that it needs just a very easy run-through with the reamer to ensure the pin slides freely. You don't want it to be stuck as you want the sear to move easy, but tight in the sear housing ! These pins can be installed in any generation EAA / Tanfoglio pistols. The frames can vary quite a lot and the "Custom Frame" (Limited, Limited Custom, Stock II, Hunter, Gold Match, Gold Team, Gold Custom, Limited Pro etc) have been around since 1990 until present. They haven't changed drastically in design since then when it comes to the frame specifications like these pin holes. This is why a 0.1200" sear pin a 0.1470" hammer pin can be used in all these guns. Some are sloppy and some are tight. By reaming to these exact dimensions you are allowing for installation of pins made from the best material for the job. 416 Stainless steel is widely used in custom rifle barrels (JP, Lothar Walther etc) and serious aftermarket 1911 parts manufacturers use 416 in their stainless parts. I use 416 in my Thor compensators for AR-15s etc. 416 can be hardened to Rockwell 45 which is very hard. For instance, the EGW sear is Rockwell 50 which means if any of them ever was to wear out in an insane, impossible usage scenario, the sear pin would wear before the sear. But both are so hard that you won't see any change in the parts geometry. With the factory pins on the other hand I have some pins that have worn smaller which means the trigger job over years of usage has changed. If you're ever scared of doing the reaming yourself, you can send the gun to me and we will do it. You can also mail your gun in for a trigger job. ps. make sure you use the 0.1470 reamer for the hammer holes only, not the sear. However it's such a huge difference in size that if you don't realize which reamers to use, you should probably send the gun to us ;-) Edited September 29, 2009 by sinnsyk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 The new solid trigger pin and a nut which will replace that silly roll pin that holds the trigger in place will be available soon. It will be part of the new straight trigger kit, but also available separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritinUSA Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 You're telling me this now ??!!!??? After I took the whole thing apart to clean it last week and spent about 2.5 hours trying to put it all back together again! I am going to smack you one of these days... Let me know when it's ready to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 For my new straight trigger I've commissioned a new style trigger return spring. All the issues of trying to get the trigger back with the factory return spring will soon be of the past. My machinist is just putting in the final cuts on the trigger, but they are gorgeous little things. Made in 416 stainless. All adjustments will be easy, though the pre-travel has to be adjusted while the trigger is outside the frame. However taking it in and out won't be a problem any more. Plus I should have the trigger pin and nut any day now. There are many little things that has to come together at the same time. Paul stop by today or tomorrow if you've got time. We'll put the new sear pin, hammer pin and pin pin in your pistola. The new shiny little parts are pretty and they do a good job of holding the trigger parts tight which improves the trigger pull/feel. Plus when you try to disassemble the trigger parts, the new sexy hammer pin pin is easy to take out. Neat stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Arrrg, Tanfo really needs to sell your stuff so it's Production Legal!!!! I want pins!!!!!!!, I want a new sear and hammer, I want I want I want!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritinUSA Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 I think Hennings grips/base pads are already legal for IPSC Production. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 grips are, but I don't think his pads are, if he "made" his own mags we could use his pads so long as the overall length wasn't greater than factory mags with the rubber base plates on them. I've been thinking of getting some CZ mags, as they are a tighter fit to the bottom of the grip, and help send the slide forward automatically on insertion, whereas the factory ones don't do that. If I ran those mags, I could use his pads. hmmmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) grips are, but I don't think his pads are, if he "made" his own mags we could use his pads so long as the overall length wasn't greater than factory mags with the rubber base plates on them. I've been thinking of getting some CZ mags, as they are a tighter fit to the bottom of the grip, and help send the slide forward automatically on insertion, whereas the factory ones don't do that. If I ran those mags, I could use his pads. hmmmmm NOOO...the tanfoglio mags are so much better IMHO, and from owning a Shadow at one time. I was taking to JP about this at Summer Slam,...he was mentioning about liking the Tanfoglio mags over the CZ ones. I have never had a nose dive with my mags like I had with the Shadow mags. The Tanfoglio mags are smoother inside as well. The Tanfoglio (blued) mags don't rust as easy as my CZ mags either.. the Chrome mags are much smoother and if by chance the trigger bar rubs against the mag body in DA,..you may notice the blued mags are not as smooth as the chromed ones......(slight but noticeable difference) Edited September 30, 2009 by Mo Hepworth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Arrrg, Tanfo really needs to sell your stuff so it's Production Legal!!!! I want pins!!!!!!!, I want a new sear and hammer, I want I want I want!!!!!!! I agree,....Henning Sear and Hammer I have in my Standard .40 are great. The Firing pin allows me to use the 14lb hammer spring cut by 2 coils,...I would say my Limited Custom has about a 2.25lb trigger press with this set up. If Henning offered the firing pin, hammer and sear VIA Tanfoglio Italy, (as MATCH trigger components)...you would be definetely be able to improve the DA and SA trigger press. I think my Limited .40 trigger press was around 3.5lbs+ before the trigger job with the match components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shooterbenedetto Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) ATTN HENNING!! BETTER PARTS!! I would like to see better springs for Tans as the factory springs are brittle. any thoughts on this? I see that your new trigger set will go with a better spring. I know my small frame gold team came with a straight trigger and the spring just sits on the frame and the trigger just sits on top of it..very easy to take in and out. How about NEW stronger sear spring and mag catch spring? SB Edited September 30, 2009 by shooterbenedetto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 hmm CZ mags, polished with Tanfo internals maybe? I've also thought about making minor adjustments to my mag catch to allow the mag to seat slighter higher in the grip, as I've seen some guns allow that. But not sure how much to adjust for, obviously one would have to be careful. As well the mag could bottom out on the slide if allowed to go to far in. Or perhaps a thicker lipped base pad would solve the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 (edited) I have the parts, and have a few questions Henning. I will put them here in case others have the same questions. The sear pin went in fairly easy. I actually did not even ream the Henning sear I already have in it,...I used the factory sear pin as a slave pin and tapped the Henning sear pin in......it fits and moves easily enough (although it does take away any movement other than up and down) ,...does this seem ok? Is it possible that the sear hole does not need to be reamed? The Henning Hammer pin went in a lot tighter. the Frame needed little reaming,....but the Henning hammer I previously had needed a LOT of reaming. I actually said to hell with it after reaming it for a while and assembled it in the gun. I needed to tap it in with a small tool hammer. ,...and then used the new Pin-pin. IS the hammer pin supposed to not move in the hammer? The hammer and hammer pin now move as one,...and the only movement is the hammer pin turning in the frame hole. I tried the trigger,....and it feels great. It sounds crazy, but it actually feels lighter??, and the break is cleaner and consistant. I had a great trigger before, and had RElliott do the stoning/assembly. This is just like icing on the cake; It definitely feels more solid. All in all I like it. **O h yeah,..... I like the new Henning shirt. Very comfortable. It will be my new indoor shooting shirt Edited October 6, 2009 by Mo Hepworth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritinUSA Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Henning and I installed the new pins in my gun the other day. The hammer pin is tight, it rotates in the frame and works perfectly. We had to tap the pin to go through the hammer just as you said. The break felt crisper to me also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Yes it's almost surprising, but the hammer and sear pin makes a difference and it also allows for the sear to be stoned to an even nicer crisp, fit. It's quite a bit of work to ream the hammer pin though the frame is easy. However it's the only way I could make the hammer sit in the frame this tight. If you ream the hammer a few times the hammer pin will sit in easier. It doesn't matter if the hammer pin follows the hammer or not, it's made from 416 stainless and hardened so it won't wear - or to be more correct... it'll take a very, very, very long time before you see any wear at all... :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerburgess Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 I use a elite match for limited class, so I looked at the pin kit and was wondering if the hammer pin will or can be made to fit in the standard frame or only the copetition frames? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan 259 Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 The new H042 Trigger Pin, the H092 Sear Pin and the H046 hammer pin pin is now available along with reamers for installation. These pins doesn't wear like the factory and the sear / hammer holes need to be reamed to the new pins. After installation the hammer and the sear will sit tight in the frame and allow for an ever crisper trigger. Factory pins have slop which allows the hammer and sear to wobble. It's not huge wobble, but enough to prevent 100% consistent hammer and sear movement. These pins are made from 416 stainless steel and hardened to Rockwell 45. They will not wear and when you've upgraded your gun with the nice EGW hammer and sear you will want to make sure they are installed in the frame as tight as possible. These pins allows for that.I've written a whole article about it, with pictures showing how to install. All reamers necessary available in the shop. You probably want to use a hand reamer tool (reamer holder). I haven't sourced those yet, but as soon as I do I'll put them on the shop so it's easy to get everything you need at the same time. Check out the article and see for yourself. The new Hammer Pin Pin (H046) has a new pretty cool feature that lets you disassemble without any difficulty.. New Henning Trigger Parts Pins Article I have some reservations regarding this pins. Definitely the fitting of the sear to sear housing will be better but what can we do regarding the fitting of the sear housing and the frame. I noticed that the sear housing is not fitted tightly with the frame. If that is the case the sear will still move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 dan 259> As Henning stated before you can reduce the sear cage to frame fit by using some silver solder on the sides of the sear cage to reduce the gap between the two parts. I have seen other guns where actual set screws were put in the side of the frame that press into the sear cage to secure it into one location. I am on the fence about taking out all of the sear cage to frame fit "Slop". On one side you could make a super consistent and crisp trigger by eliminating the slop. On the other side you gain some fudge factor in building the trigger and also gain some reliability when it can move around a little bit. The tighter and more precise you make the fit of the parts the more susceptible it becomes to malfunctioning due to misalignments. The pins Henning came out with do eliminate the wobble of the hammer and the slop of the sear within the sear cage. These two things together do make a significant difference in the quality of the trigger pull even if the sear cage is still a little sloppy. I can build a very nice and reliable trigger without eliminating the sear cage slop so why try to eliminate it? Doing so will just add another fine tuning variable to keep on top of to ensure its still aligned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan 259 Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 dan 259> As Henning stated before you can reduce the sear cage to frame fit by using some silver solder on the sides of the sear cage to reduce the gap between the two parts. I have seen other guns where actual set screws were put in the side of the frame that press into the sear cage to secure it into one location.I am on the fence about taking out all of the sear cage to frame fit "Slop". On one side you could make a super consistent and crisp trigger by eliminating the slop. On the other side you gain some fudge factor in building the trigger and also gain some reliability when it can move around a little bit. The tighter and more precise you make the fit of the parts the more susceptible it becomes to malfunctioning due to misalignments. The pins Henning came out with do eliminate the wobble of the hammer and the slop of the sear within the sear cage. These two things together do make a significant difference in the quality of the trigger pull even if the sear cage is still a little sloppy. I can build a very nice and reliable trigger without eliminating the sear cage slop so why try to eliminate it? Doing so will just add another fine tuning variable to keep on top of to ensure its still aligned. Cha-Lee> Thank you, now I'm more confident even with sloppy sear housing fit. I'm just wondering, is the oversized sear pin a little longer? I think if it is longer it will reduce the movement of the sear housing too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) The sear pin is not wider than the sear cage. Even if it was longer it wouldnt stop the sear housing from moving around because the sear housing would just shift on the sear pin. Edited October 24, 2009 by CHA-LEE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now