dhenry132 Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 (edited) Well after over 30 years of reloading I finally did it. I blew up around 100 primers while they were in the primer tube. I made a mess and the 1050 looked the same. I thought it was a case that had a burr on the case head but it was not. I had been having some cases sticking in the shell plate because of the burr thing. But this time it was a primer. So when I really pushed on the handle "BOOM". The aluminum tube that hold the primers and the plastic rod that follows the primers down the tube are history. Had to dig the follower rod out of the ceiling. All I got was a few burning freckles of powder on my arm, no burns just a bad smell form me. Not I get to call Dillon and order some new parts and tell them how stupid I was. http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n297/dh...er/DSC_0050.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n297/dh...er/DSC_0052.jpg Edited July 20, 2009 by dhenry132 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Yikes! Glad you didn't get hurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Dont feel bad, welcome to the club! Check and make sure it isnt Speer brass. You may have primers not getting punched out all the way. If that is what is going on bevel the tip of your decapping pin and that should take care of it. I got a "deal" on some 30 year old brass and found that some of the primers were staying in the pocket. I punched out the end, but the "ring" stayed in and of course, "BANG". Sucks but it happens. Get the new parts in and get back to loadin! DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kar45 Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Well after over 30 years of reloading I finally did it. I blew up around 100 primers while they were in the primer tube. I made a mess and the 1050 looked the same. I thought it was a case that had a burr on the case head but it was not. I had been having some cases sticking in the shell plate because of the burr thing. But this time it was a primer. So when I really pushed on the handle "BOOM". The aluminum tube that hold the primers and the plastic rod that follows the primers down the tube are history. Had to dig the follower rod out of the ceiling. All I got was a few burning freckles of powder on my arm, no burns just a bad smell form me. Not I get to call Dillon and order some new parts and tell them how stupid I was.http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n297/dh...er/DSC_0050.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n297/dh...er/DSC_0052.jpg Large or small primers, what brand? The explosion was at the very bottom of the stroke? Are your ears still ringing and will the stain come out of your drawers? I have a 1050 in 45acp I bought in the early 90's that I'm just now beginning to use, have only loaded 9k rounds on. You guys are scaring me a little with this 'welcome to the club' bidness...Regards, Kirby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhenry132 Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 Well after over 30 years of reloading I finally did it. I blew up around 100 primers while they were in the primer tube. I made a mess and the 1050 looked the same. I thought it was a case that had a burr on the case head but it was not. I had been having some cases sticking in the shell plate because of the burr thing. But this time it was a primer. So when I really pushed on the handle "BOOM". The aluminum tube that hold the primers and the plastic rod that follows the primers down the tube are history. Had to dig the follower rod out of the ceiling. All I got was a few burning freckles of powder on my arm, no burns just a bad smell form me. Not I get to call Dillon and order some new parts and tell them how stupid I was.http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n297/dh...er/DSC_0050.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n297/dh...er/DSC_0052.jpg Large or small primers, what brand? The explosion was at the very bottom of the stroke? Are your ears still ringing and will the stain come out of your drawers? I have a 1050 in 45acp I bought in the early 90's that I'm just now beginning to use, have only loaded 9k rounds on. You guys are scaring me a little with this 'welcome to the club' bidness...Regards, Kirby Only a small stain, can not hear anyway. Bottom of stroke and cci primers. Took me about 30 min's to clean it up and rob another 1050 and keep on going. I have about 750000 on this 1050 and like they say there is a first time. Just my first for a stake of a 100 at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kar45 Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Well after over 30 years of reloading I finally did it. I blew up around 100 primers while they were in the primer tube. I made a mess and the 1050 looked the same. I thought it was a case that had a burr on the case head but it was not. I had been having some cases sticking in the shell plate because of the burr thing. But this time it was a primer. So when I really pushed on the handle "BOOM". The aluminum tube that hold the primers and the plastic rod that follows the primers down the tube are history. Had to dig the follower rod out of the ceiling. All I got was a few burning freckles of powder on my arm, no burns just a bad smell form me. Not I get to call Dillon and order some new parts and tell them how stupid I was.http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n297/dh...er/DSC_0050.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n297/dh...er/DSC_0052.jpg Large or small primers, what brand? The explosion was at the very bottom of the stroke? Are your ears still ringing and will the stain come out of your drawers? I have a 1050 in 45acp I bought in the early 90's that I'm just now beginning to use, have only loaded 9k rounds on. You guys are scaring me a little with this 'welcome to the club' bidness...Regards, Kirby Only a small stain, can not hear anyway. Bottom of stroke and cci primers. Took me about 30 min's to clean it up and rob another 1050 and keep on going. I have about 750000 on this 1050 and like they say there is a first time. Just my first for a stake of a 100 at once. 750k...are you cranking the handle on all of those or using the PW autodrive? Just curious, that would kill my arm...Regards, Kirby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Dont feel bad, welcome to the club! Check and make sure it isnt Speer brass. You may have primers not getting punched out all the way. If that is what is going on bevel the tip of your decapping pin and that should take care of it. I got a "deal" on some 30 year old brass and found that some of the primers were staying in the pocket. I punched out the end, but the "ring" stayed in and of course, "BANG". Sucks but it happens. Get the new parts in and get back to loadin! DougC I am Not a "club member" yet myself...LOL.. But... IMO the above (on the 1050 machine) is the gospel.... I have Many times found an old primer stuck under a crushed down new primer. Not a booming sound yet but it could happen any time I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 (edited) This is what happens when you remove the ratchet assembly from the machine. You get double feeds... Edited July 21, 2009 by Merlin Orr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhenry132 Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 Only a small stain, can not hear anyway. Bottom of stroke and cci primers. Took me about 30 min's to clean it up and rob another 1050 and keep on going. I have about 750000 on this 1050 and like they say there is a first time. Just my first for a stake of a 100 at once. 750k...are you cranking the handle on all of those or using the PW autodrive? Just curious, that would kill my arm...Regards, Kirby Mostly with the handle. I have a P/W drive but I'm thinking about selling it. I need the feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 You guys are scaring me a little with this 'welcome to the club' bidness...Regards, Kirby Christ!! I was thinking the same thing. I just ordered my first 1050 from Brian about two hours ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 WHile I have munched a large number of primers in owning two different 1050's, I've yet to light one off on the press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz1911 Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Dont feel bad, welcome to the club! DougC Call me antisocial, but I'm not looking to join that club... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
35WLN Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 I lit off about 50 once and I am not sure what exactly happened. I always wear my safety glasses and either plugs or my ipod now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill J Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 The part that I don't understand is how the whole stack goes off if it happens while the new primer is going in. After all it isn't in line with the stack and is in it's own "compartment" I have a 1050 and have read the posts about it happening although I just can't see how it does. And I'm hoping I never find out how it does either. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kar45 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 You guys are scaring me a little with this 'welcome to the club' bidness...Regards, Kirby Christ!! I was thinking the same thing. I just ordered my first 1050 from Brian about two hours ago. CSE, I guess we can get a case feeder, PW auto drive with a 20' cord, put in our ear plugs, safety glasses on and watch it run from across the room. then when we light off a stack at least it won't be right in our face. lol, Kirby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 You guys are scaring me a little with this 'welcome to the club' bidness...Regards, Kirby Christ!! I was thinking the same thing. I just ordered my first 1050 from Brian about two hours ago. CSE, I guess we can get a case feeder, PW auto drive with a 20' cord, put in our ear plugs, safety glasses on and watch it run from across the room. then when we light off a stack at least it won't be right in our face. lol, Kirby Great idea!! Or get one of those plexiglass safety shield things they use in Mythbusters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kar45 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 You guys are scaring me a little with this 'welcome to the club' bidness...Regards, Kirby Christ!! I was thinking the same thing. I just ordered my first 1050 from Brian about two hours ago. CSE, I guess we can get a case feeder, PW auto drive with a 20' cord, put in our ear plugs, safety glasses on and watch it run from across the room. then when we light off a stack at least it won't be right in our face. lol, Kirby Great idea!! Or get one of those plexiglass safety shield things they use in Mythbusters. I meant to say bullet feeder, not case feeder. All joking aside, I'm sure I've had worse ideas. I know the machine has a steel tube to contain the blast and direct it upwards, I'm just leery about primers in general...Regards, Kirby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredr Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Mostly with the handle. I have a P/W drive but I'm thinking about selling it. I need the feel. /thread drift/ interesting to hear your thoughts on the P/W system. I bought one as well - very well built, no complaints, but ultimately decided not to use it because I really didn't feel comfortable running the machine without the "feel" of actually operating it by hand. I've got my 1050 set up for .223 and use two toolheads - one for brass prep (deprime/resize/trim/neck expand) and then another toolhead for loading. * while running the autodrive for brass prep, i found that I was breaking way too many decapping pins on berdan brass - when I tightened the P/W drive clutch enough to resize tough military brass, it would break pins on the berdan cases that worked their way in. When i loosened the clutch enough to slip when encountering berdan brass, it would often stall when resizing mil brass. * could probably use it for actually loading prepped brass, but .223 runs about 50,000 PSI and the chamber is about 4" in front of my face. I just can't bring myself to crank that ammo out without actually running the handle and feeling exactly what kind of resistance i'm getting with each turn of the shellplate. Also - when just running brass prep, i can actually get about 2,000 cartridges an hour through the machine running it by hand, so it's more effective to run the machine by hand rather then use the P/W system. much higher output when you factor in the far fewer screwups that I create running the machine by hand vs. letting the autodrive system move the lever for me. my $.02, everyone else's mileage may vary... /thread drift off/ -jared Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Jared, thanks for your observations! I have 3 machines, and have the same set up for .223. I have held off on the P/W system mainly due to finances, but I too had the concerns you found. I appreciate your information! DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhenry132 Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Mostly with the handle. I have a P/W drive but I'm thinking about selling it. I need the feel. /thread drift/ interesting to hear your thoughts on the P/W system. I bought one as well - very well built, no complaints, but ultimately decided not to use it because I really didn't feel comfortable running the machine without the "feel" of actually operating it by hand. I've got my 1050 set up for .223 and use two toolheads - one for brass prep (deprime/resize/trim/neck expand) and then another toolhead for loading. * while running the autodrive for brass prep, i found that I was breaking way too many decapping pins on berdan brass - when I tightened the P/W drive clutch enough to resize tough military brass, it would break pins on the berdan cases that worked their way in. When i loosened the clutch enough to slip when encountering berdan brass, it would often stall when resizing mil brass. * could probably use it for actually loading prepped brass, but .223 runs about 50,000 PSI and the chamber is about 4" in front of my face. I just can't bring myself to crank that ammo out without actually running the handle and feeling exactly what kind of resistance i'm getting with each turn of the shellplate. Also - when just running brass prep, i can actually get about 2,000 cartridges an hour through the machine running it by hand, so it's more effective to run the machine by hand rather then use the P/W system. much higher output when you factor in the far fewer screwups that I create running the machine by hand vs. letting the autodrive system move the lever for me. my $.02, everyone else's mileage may vary... /thread drift off/ Almost exactly my same problems. Plus I also tear out index paws when I get the clutch tight enough. -jared Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kar45 Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 The part that I don't understand is how the whole stack goes off if it happens while the new primer is going in. After all it isn't in line with the stack and is in it's own "compartment" I have a 1050 and have read the posts about it happening although I just can't see how it does. And I'm hoping I never find out how it does either.Bill I mentioned this thread to a friend of mine who is a commercial loader. He immediately said "failure to decontaminate"...Regards, Kirby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdice Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Dont feel bad, welcome to the club! Check and make sure it isnt Speer brass. You may have primers not getting punched out all the way. If that is what is going on bevel the tip of your decapping pin and that should take care of it. I got a "deal" on some 30 year old brass and found that some of the primers were staying in the pocket. I punched out the end, but the "ring" stayed in and of course, "BANG". Sucks but it happens. Get the new parts in and get back to loadin! DougC Could you explain a little bit more? I've had this same problem on a batch of 40S&W brass and I've been pre-processing the brass and looking for the rings. How does the bevel help this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Sure. I and others have found that Dillon decap pins have a little "Flat" on the bottom. On tight primer pocket brass, as Speer, instead of the spent primer popping off the decap pin when it gets punched out of the spent case, it can stick to the decap pin and get sucked back in a little bit into the case. This jams up the works..... By just beveling the pin end a little bit, knocking the edge off, it alleviated this. Hope this helps! DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdice Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Sure. I and others have found that Dillon decap pins have a little "Flat" on the bottom. On tight primer pocket brass, as Speer, instead of the spent primer popping off the decap pin when it gets punched out of the spent case, it can stick to the decap pin and get sucked back in a little bit into the case. This jams up the works.....By just beveling the pin end a little bit, knocking the edge off, it alleviated this. Hope this helps! DougC Got it, thanks. I've been having a problem with only the bottom of the primer being dropped and a ring being left in the case. It doesn't sound like this change will address that. I detonated another primer last night in my 1050 and that wasn't fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 A "Ringer" as you described is typically caused when fired brass is exposed to moisture, such as rain, and it gets down into the interior of the primer. The resultant corrosion weakens the corner area of the primer, so that when the decapping pin pushes down, the end of the primer and the anvil push out, leaving the sidewall of the primer cup. Sometimes I can feel them at the swaging station of the 1050, but not always. Scary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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