Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

.40 Dies?


jskd82

Recommended Posts

Hi i have heard so much about lee FCD dies and EGW. I just ordered a set of dillon dies and i was wondering if i should get the FCD or EGW dies? Would i need both or just one of those? I shoot a glock .40 and have heard alot about glocks making the brass bulge and the dillon dies won't resize them properly. please help me out on this confusion. Thanks.

-Jason-

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jason. Welcome to the forum.

You couldn't go wrong with either of those choices. One should suffice.

I use the Dillon set with the Lee resize/decap die. It does resize a bit farther down the case.

There's nothing wrong with the Dillon die, I just prefer to resize as far down to the case rim as I can.

Many people in the forum use either those different dies with positive results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is just a hunch, but you may be better off using a Dillon die for a Glock. The LEE and EGW undersize the brass a bit and also help take the "buldge" out of the bottom. This is important, especially when shooting a custom 1911 with tighter chamber tollerances. You may be overworking the brass by undersizing it then "over expanding it" with the Glock's looser chamber tollerances. (This assumes you are talking about a Lee undersize die and not the standard die.) Another thing you might want to consider is the Lee Factory Taper Crimp die. Not only does is seem to crimp better than the other dies, it also resizes the brass again on the crimp stage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lee factory crimp die (fcd) resizes the round again as it crimps.This along with the reg lee resizing die has all but eliminated rejected rounds.My reject count went from 5-7 in a hundred to a 2-3 in a thousand!

I said it before but i have run .357 sig cases through and the only way to id the round was the head stamp.

I did not recover those cases to see how they looked after spitting a .40 fmjhp.I think they are somewhere near stage 3,or was it 4?

I was reloading for a glock but now load for my sti with the blessing of having a good brass hookup.

Bulged not bulged .357 sig i don't care just no cracks please.i'm lucky to shoot mostly once fired brass(hookup ;) )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Lee factory crimp die is a taper crimp die with a carbide sizing ring in the bottom of the die. The carbide ring assures that all the rounds loaded are sized correctly regardless of brass thickness, bullet diameter, etc. Midway USA sells the Lee die for $12.97.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I looked on Midway USA's website and while looking at this die I noticed something. When I first started reloading I bought a Lee Progressive press. Being a bit disappointed with it i bought a Dillon 650. However, I have a set of .40 dies for the Lee press and the seating and crimp die looks exactly like the factory crimp die. Does anyone know if this is the same? if it is i'll use that with the dillon dies.

Thanks,

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think the Lee seating die (which will crimp also) is the same as the FDC. I am fairly sure it is not.

The Lee seating die seats the bullet and can add crimp.

The Lee FDC crimps AND sizes the complete round (with a carbide ring at it's base).

FDC = must have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lee FCD gives you the peace of mind, knowing that your reload is as reliable as ever, out of your reloading press anyway.

The Lee FCD tend to work more on my 9mm and 40S&W brass than the 45 ACP.

try the test, take you barrel out of the slide and drop a reloaded round that has not been thru the FCD and drop another round that went thru the FCD.... Notice any difference.

""Clean the chamber first"" then test.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which is better to have? The Lee FCD die or the EGW. Im getting alot of rejected loads in .40. All of them are bulged at the bottom and won't case gauge. I read a thread in the reloading section and was thinking of getting the EGW in .38 Super and .40. After reading this Im wondering if I'd be better off with the Lee FCD.

Also am I understanding correctly that I can't buy just the Lee FCD? Or do I have to buy the whole set?

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jim, I was having lots of rejects with once fired brass with my 650 and dillon dies(bulged). I changed to a EGW die and my rejects went to almost nil. The EGW die does not have the open mouth like the dillon(which was the problem to start with) and it will slow you some but its a good postive change. Larry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jim,

I started with Redding dies because one grizzled ole timer (GOT) told me they will re-size farther down the case than others. This is good if you are shooting Glocks, or brass shot from a Glock. i.e.get the bulge out, if there is one.

I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die to crimp and "contour" the loaded round.

No problems whatsoever in 9mm.

The only problems I have in .40 are usually with Sellior and Belliot (sp?) brass. I case check everything I may shoot in a match, and if it fails to gauge it is almost always S&B.

For me, success with Glock 9mm and .40 reloading equals: Redding carbide dies (there really about the same cost as Dillion), followed by a LeeFCD.

Be wary of S&B in .40. Case check everything.

TomB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dillon sizing die - funnel at the bottom...rounds feed well in the progressive, but doesn't size as far down the case (where the buldge is)

Lee Sizing Die (regular) - less funnel, sizes further down the case

Lee "U" sizing die (U=Undersized) - sizes the brass to a size smaller (diameter) than spec.

EGW sizing die - They take the Lee U, and mill the bottom...it undersizes like the U AND it gets further down the case

Lee FCD - totally seperate from the sizing dies...this die is the last thing to touch the loaded round...it crimps AND re-sizes the COMPLETE round.

I use the regular Lee resizing die AND the FDC. The idea here is that these dies will "work" the brass the least amount...AND still pass the case gauge. I use Glock brass, with my setup...all my rounds pass the gauge

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a quick question on dies:

I'm thinking of moving to a Dillon 650 from a Lee Pro-1000, and would like to keep all Lee dies on the new press (i.e. I don't want to buy another set of dies).

I'm wondering if the 2nd die (the one for flaring the brass mouth and dropping the powder) will work with Dillon's powder measure assembly?

I ask this because the Lee die is tapped to accomodate the Lee powder measure assembly, while looking at Dillon's manual, the Dillon powder measure assembly appears to lock on the die in a different manner.

I also have concers regarding the powder funnel (that flares the brass mouth too): the Dillon's one looks quite longer than the Lee counterpart, thus the last one might not be able to automatically operate the powder measure assembly with each stroke.

Any Dillon(press)-Lee(dies) user reading this willing to answer?

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...