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Does Anybody Reload With A Factory Glock Barrel?


jimmy1

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B) Jimmy1:

I have reloaded for this gun (Glock 35 -40S&W) and plan on doing more of it in the coming year. There are some limitations and issues, but as with most mechanical things-you can get around almost all of them.

Some limits that come to mind with the STOCK BARREL:

1. No lead heads

2. Barrel does NOT have a fully supported chamber so pressure must not be over SAMMI spec, fast buring powders should not be used unless a low charge is used and only good condition brass should be used.

3. Underpowered ammo in a non-modified gun will result in some stovepipe-type jams

Some solutions and info:

1. IF you insist on shooting lead heads-get a replacement Std cut bbl-a lot of guys I know get KKM barrels. There are others, like Bar-Sto and Federal. The prices start around $150.

2. Other than reloading for IPSC major this should not be an issue. And even then, powder selection can solve this problem. Stay away from fast buring powders OR heavy heads (180 and up). A lot of IPSC guys want a soft shooting load. Powders like regular Clays do that, but when you don't have a fully supported chamber

any weakness in the brass can cause the case to rupture. Then you get at least a scare, and maybe worse!

3. In an unmodified gun low powered ammo will not always reliable cycle the gun. You can solve this problem by lowering the recoil spring weight by 3 or more pounds. (Something that you need to test to see what works for you).

Anyways, that is the "short" answer. Let me know if you want some more specifics.

Dave M.

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Reloading ammo is no problem at all with my G35, but I only shoot jacketed bullets. I won my Glock in a random drawing, and while I was waiting on it to arrive, I did a lot of internet research on the ka-boom phenomenon.

Seems like the number 1 cause of that is shooting lead bullets in 40 caliber. I had previously owned a G20 in 10mm caliber and had no problems with reloading lead, but I know that 40, with its shorter OAL in the Glock, is a totally different animal.

I have NOT seen any real problem with cases expanding too far behind the supported area of the barrel, and that's while using TiteGroup powder - one of the fastest and softest-shooting powders available. I have seen even less of the "coke-bottle" effect when I shoot nickel-plated brass, which I got cheap from brassmanbrass.com. Btw, that also applies to 38super - less expansion on the back of the case with nickel.

I highly recommend you shoot only jacketed, regardless of the barrel in your gun. This sport is a vision-oriented sport, and when you shoot any sort of lead or even moly-coated lead, you just can't see as much. In my humble opinion, that will hold back your progress in practice, just as much as in matches. I shoot Zero 180 JHP, but their JFP and also Montana Gold's jacketed bullets work just as well.

Safety point: don't spray case lube into the interior of the case when loading .400 caliber bullets - there won't be enough bullet pull to keep the loaded cartridge from shrinking as it hits the feed ramp. Lube outside, lube the primer pocket from the back, but not the inside where the bullet seats.

dvc - eric - a28026

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In the end,,,,it all boils down to safe loading practices....

I squibed a load in my G22,,,,I've had squibs before, but I didn't hear or feel anything. It was the last shot before a reload and I was expermenting with a lighter firing pin spring,,,,figured it was a light strike,,,ejected the "dud", loaded the next one without checking the ejected cartridge to verify a loaded round came out and went back to shooting........

The gun didn't miss a beat,,,,shot another 100 rounds that day without incident. When I went to clean the gun that evening, I found a bulged barrel.....I was exceptionally lucky.

But that wasn't the gun's fault,,,,that was my fault. I found my powder measure had started throwing some inconsistent loads,,,,,,had to pull a ton of ammo.

I bought a Wilson barrel,,,,,runs great and I'll continue to load for the .40......but with my new press. :)

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On ka-booms - You're right. I was mainly talking about .40 Glocks - lead buildup is a problem with factory barrels.

For all guns, double-charges ARE the worst offender. The 10mm and 45acp cases are huge, compared to the volume of powder people use now.

Easier to do with the Dillon 55O - although if you really try, you can double-charge a SquareDeal or a 1050 or anything else. Determination to screw up can go a long way.

Lucky for me, the handful of times I double-charged, it overflowed the case and I never put a bullet on top. (whew)

ALWAYS shine a light on the charged case and LOOK before you seat a bullet. The best safety device is between your ears; I wouldn't trust a powder-level alarm any further than I could throw it.

eric

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  • 3 years later...

*********BRINGING THIS BACK FROM THE DEAD*********

Does anyone reload .40 using the factory barrel w/ Glock'ed brass, moly coated bullets and is NOT using the EGW U die?

Here is my set up.

Modified Glock G35 w/ factory barrel

Load

180 grain FP moly coated Bear Creak bullet

4.1 grains of Titegroup

1.135 OAL

Winchester WSP primers

Mixed brass mostly Winchester

Press

Dillon 550

All Dillon dies except the Lee FCD (set a 1/2 turn as directions state) in station 4.

I have fired about 150 rounds without any issues. All loaded rounds (700 so far) pass the Dillon case gauge. I hand chambered some of these rounds in my friends .40 KKM barrel and a LW barrel and they are tight. So I know if I plan on using one of these barrels in the future I will probably have to get the EGW die. But for now I just want to use the factory barrel.

Is there anything I should worry about?

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Yes - load with molly bullets, by the tens of thousands. Have never used anything but Dillon dies for the 40. Never have tried an EGW die. If any don't case gauge, throw them away.

My preference is WSF and 200 grain bullets. The 200's seem to feel softer to me.

Everybody swears by their own setup. If what you have works for your equipment than it's good. Don't assume there is something out there that is going to take the place of good reloading technique.

If you shoot lead, check your barrel and determine how soon it need to be cleaned, don't let it build up. A Glock running lead seems to like it's barrel cleaned every 100-200 rounds. With molly I have never had any buildup in the barrel.

KB's happen in any caliber - run a search for the reams of opinions on those things.

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I've got over 50,000 reloads through my 35 factory barrel with no problems. Pay attention and you should be fine. Pretty much THE load for .40 in Production seems to be the following:

180grn MG's

3.6 grn TG

WSP Primers

Mixed brass

1.135OAL

It might take a bit of tweaking here or there but that seems to be all I've ever needed. I load on a 650 with a EGW U Decap/size die, Redding Comp Seating die, and a Lee FCD die.

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I reload with a factory barrel and have no problems

Currently Reloading:

180 gr. FMJ Precision Delta

4.5 gr of N320

WSPM = Winchester Small Pistol Magnums

For major Matches i reload once fired brass. For local Matches it is mixed

That is a good Major Load.

Minor Load

180 gr. FMJ Precision Delta

3.1 gr of N310

WSP

Mixed brass

I use that for steel matches and it is very nice shooting load.

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I too reload .40 S&W using moly-coated bullets for use with the factory barrel in my Glock 35.

I do not use the EGW U die, this is my setup:

Redding die for resizing/de-capping.

Redding competition seating die.

Lee factory crimp die.

My current load for USPSA Limited is:

200 grain Bear Creek Moly Coated

3.7 grains of Vit N320

WSP primer

Winchester brass

OAL: 1.127 (If I recall correctly)

Cor

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Thanks everyone for the replies.

How many times are you loading the same brass? Could resizing the same bulged over and over cause a failure at some point? I have read that some people reload the same batch of brass 4 times then dump it.

I am not too worried about it but was wondering what are you guys doing?

I also reload .45 ACP (fired from a 1911) and never even concider it to be an issue on how many times the case could be reused.

Edited by PLINK
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.45 and .40 are entirely different beasts when it comes to reloading, due to pressure. My general rule is that I'll pick up practice brass, but leave match brass. This keeps me to 1 or 2 reloads on brass, max. .40 is cheap enough that I can eat the cost. .45, on the other hand, is something I intend to pass down to my grandchildren, if I can keep up with it that long.

As for my reloads, Dillon dies, Glock barrel, MB 180gr, 4.4gr TG makes 172-174pf. I have about 6k through it with no problems, and I clean my barrel every 100-300 rounds, at least.

H.

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Most people use a glock to unload ammo.

Use the U die to reload it.

I use a Glock 35 to unload .40 reloads and a Dillon 650 to load them back up. Dillon dies, Lee Factory Crimp Die, 180 grain plated bullets, VV N320 and WSP or CCI SP primers.

Works very well for me shooting production.

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I shot 5k or so jacketed through the factory barrel without incedent.

Unlike the others here, Precision bullets wouldn't work for me. Too much leading. Aftermarket barrel eventually solved that.

The U die may not help in any way, but I sure feel better using one. Reduces the chances of set-back close to nil in my opinion.

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I shot 5k or so jacketed through the factory barrel without incedent.

Unlike the others here, Precision bullets wouldn't work for me. Too much leading.

I've shot a ton of bear creeks out of my 45 glock. It seems like there's a lot of leading, but its really just moly or plastic or something. But in any case it seems like its self limiting; builds up to a certain extent then no more.

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