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ANGRYREB

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Time to pick your brains,

1) Everyone talks about the discomfort of shooting these revolvers at Major PF. What makes for the discomfort- the Ti cylinders, 4 inch barrel or just the smaller L-frame? Other opinions?

2) How does the 646 reload compared to a 610?

Looking forward to all answers. Thank you for your time.

Angryreb

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1) Everyone talks about the discomfort of shooting these revolvers at Major PF. What makes for the discomfort- the Ti cylinders, 4 inch barrel or just the smaller L-frame? Other opinions?

646 weight 975 grams, a 4" 625 1125 grams, that is 15% more; its barrel is actually 3 and 7/8. Recoil is sharper!

The smaller frame ( barrel is lower) helps in muzzle jump.

2) How does the 646 reload compared to a 610?

Better! Holes are closer!

Better than a 625? No.

I currently own 2 of the 900 made in 2003; I use it in IPSC revo division loaded Major PF (204RN bullets) since 2004; I like L frame over the N ones.

Still I believe a 5" 646 would be PERFECT!

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I have a couple of these in the plain jane 900 run configuration.

I have one set to race, I have miculeck grips on it as well as all my other "shooters" Its' recoil is sharp and after about 20-30 rounds in a row (long field course) I'm ready to not be shooting it. I feel that is because of the light weight vs the N frame guns. Physics say that and I'll agree. BUt man I really like the little gun.................I'd rather have a 6 inch than a 5 if it was me.

compared to a 610 on reloads?

It's like comparing a 625 to a 610 if you ask me.......I think it(646) actually reloads better for me (compared to a 625), but I have small fingers and can handle the L frame better than the N.

Hopalong

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Thanks to everyone who has responded!!

The reason behind the the questions is I am looking to convert a 6 inch 686 to .40 SW. Got someone who can take stock barrel and bore & rifle it to .40 cal.

Same thing with the cylinder. Just wanting to make sure I am not beating my head against the wall.

Hop, that was the answers I was hoping to hear. Thanks!! B)

Snertly, I know my CDL states none! :roflol:

Thanks for the replies so far, keep them coming.

Angryreb

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Sounds like fun to me!Please let us know how it works out for you.I might be interested in having your guy rebuild a wreck of a 586 the same way.My concern would be as to why Spit & Missin' chose to use Ti for the 646 cylinder.Was it for weight or strength due to the thinner walls?My guess is weight,due to the fact they make the 7 banger .357s.Anyways good luck with it,i hope it turns out.-Mike

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Sounds like fun to me!Please let us know how it works out for you.I might be interested in having your guy rebuild a wreck of a 586 the same way.My concern would be as to why Spit & Missin' chose to use Ti for the 646 cylinder.Was it for weight or strength due to the thinner walls?My guess is weight,due to the fact they make the 7 banger .357s.Anyways good luck with it,i hope it turns out.-Mike

I don't know. I don't have my 646 in front of me, and I don't feel like opening up my safe again tonight, but I was thinking the walls were really thin between the cylinder stop notches and the chambers. Gotta remember, full-house .40 S&W loads run at relatively high pressures, I have to think the reason they would put the more more expensive Ti cylinder in a steel frame gun is because it's needed for strength. The L-frame cylinder was never intended to house six rounds of .40 ammo. I don't think I would advise converting a 686 to .40 caliber for safety reasons--how would you ever proof it?

Also, I can't imagine it would be cost-effective with all the machine involved. If the goal is to have a longer-barreled 646, wouldn't it be less expensive to to locate a 646 (I realize they're not cheap anymore) and make a custom barrel from a Shilen or Douglas blank??

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I have a PC-646. It is a very well built revolver with a nice action. I have only shot full power loads in mine. Once, I ignorantly installed Miculek grips on it then went to shoot. After about 250 rounds down range, I noticed rust on the backstrap. Well it wasn't rust. The web of my hand had busted and was bleeding all over the thing.

I believe it would be a great competition revolver using lower PF rounds but I must state that I've never shot my PC-646 in any competition. I still own it, shoot it and won't be selling it.

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I only shoot my S&W 646 at minor power factor. After a long match my wrist still feels it. I really enjoy shooting the gun and it handles like a dream but I would not use it with factory loads except in a personnal defense situation.

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  • 1 month later...
Does any one know if you can ream the chambers to accept longer .40 loads. I've got an original 646. i don't shoot it much as i have to change my loading setup.

I owned one when they first came out. Unfortunately I had to sell it around my divorce. :angry2:

Anyway, I remember someone on Glocktalk had one reamed out to accept 10mm. The biggest problem was finding a gunsmith willing to work with the TI. Some talk of galling if not done right.

I used it as a daily carry piece and loved it.

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I was just thinking of reaming the throat so could load longer ammo in it. The way it is now, it just won't take anything around 1.125 or longer.

I might just sell it. Its got an action job, miculek grips and about 40 tk moonclips.

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I had one of the original PC 646s for a while. I was the third owner....the first 2 couldn't stand the recoil shock of factory 180 gr. TCs. Carmoney and I learned to load them minor and had fun in IDPA until Billy changed the rules. Now I don't shoot IDPA anymore.....brilliant on Wilson's part. :rolleyes:

I finally sold mine last year to a guy who wanted it for his collection.....made a major profit on it :P ; thanks Billy. There is a PC version listed on GunsAmerica now.

Bob.

A16841

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