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Got a new to me 625. Put 50 rds down the tube.

Went to clean it, and wow, the chamber and half

way down the bl. is just full of nasty lead! Now I

remember why I don't shoot lead. Any way they

were Zero 230LRN. What is the best stuff to use

to get the lead out? I have tryed soaking over

night with #9 and pluged the bl. so it stays in and

just used a - ouch- brass brush as well as nylon,

first time in 12 years I have used lead, going back

to FMJ in this 625-when I can clean it "OUT" :ph34r:

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The best way is to use total jacket or the plated, I went to the Berry or Rannier and used to get them for just $2 or 3 over what lead cost. Now :wacko: what I paid for bullets in 1991 will make us sick

Any way I was cheep too and shot lead for some time.

What works great for pulling the lead out = I got a brass /bronze scrub pad from the grocery store. that was noted not to scratch the pans Thin I cut -Ropes- out of it about 3" to4" long and wrapped it on a well used bronze barrel brush that was Short enough to fit in the cylinder gap so that I could put the rod in from the muz and thin screw the brush on at the forcing cone end. I would wrap the strip of brass /bronze scrub mesh around the brush as I pulled it in . once the mesh griped in it would drag out long strands of lead. I always unscrewed the brush and !Pulled! it through the barrel.

Test the mesh with a piece of brass shell case and push it hard to make sure it will not scratch the brass , if it is good like that it will not scratch the inside of the barrel

One pad will last years I still have a strip of one around here someplace.

If you have a hard time getting the mesh to take to the brush use a smaller amount of mesh it does not take much, and you can start by pulling it through the cylinder = that will let you get the twist and wrap part started on the brush.

You will find that plenty of lead may even be in the cylinder . you will figure out quick how much to use. to much and it wont pull through. So start with less and that pulls easy and thin add and try larger strips.

Old Schools says !Do Not change directions in the bore!

<_< If the brush breaks off in the barrel =you had too much mesh :mellow:

Edited by AlamoShooter
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Go ye, to the nearest grocery store. Then find the cleaning supply aisle. Look near the scrub brushes and mops. Somewhere in there should be something akin to a brillo pad put made out of thin copper strips instead. One brand is called "chore boy". I know Libman makes one.

Buy ya one of those.

When you get home, stand over the trashcan as you cut a small tuft of the copper "wool" from the rest of the pad. I just used scissors. Wrap this tuft around a borebrush. Then run that through the bore a few times.

It's way cheaper than paying for shipping for anything from Brownell's. One chore boy pad should be a lifetime supply of lead removal.

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M-Pro7. Swab the barrel with it and let it sit for 30 minutes then the lead will just brush out. There is a liquid spray version and a gel version. Both work equally well but I like the gel for bores.

And it is non-toxic/odorless and won't hurt most finishes. It will attack the coating on fiber optic inserts if allowed to sit too long but I generally replace those when I clean the guns anyway.

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The quickest way to clean lead out of a barrel is to finish the practice session with a cylinder full of jacketed bullets. Poke around on the revolver section, and you'll find most of us shoot nothing but lead except at major matches. I hope this helps.

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I used to clean lead out of my Model 19, .357 Magnum with full power magnum loads.....Until I learned about the possibility of severe pressure spikes. Imagine shooting a .358 diameter bullet down a barrel that has been severely leaded down to say, .345-.350. Pressure could get kinda high with all the consequences that would be implied. Bulged barrel or perhaps even a burst barrel. I did it for a long time and it never happened.... but what if it did?

We don't have an excellent safety record because we do consistently or even occasionally do things that we suspect aren't all that safe.

Be Careful

I ain't trying to bust nobody's chops. Just trying to express an opinion on a safety aspect of our game.

jmho fwiw

dj

OBTW, I have found lewis's lead removal tool to work great, but, chore-boy around a cleaning brush works better

d

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Best thing I have found is to mix hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar in equal parts. Plug the barrel and fill the barrel with this mixture. Let stand for a half hour. (It will look like pop bubbles rising up. This is good it's working.) Pour out and make a couple of passes with a cotton patch. The lead comes out like a sludge. One patch of gun scrubber and your done. Warning: Can take off the blueing on some guns. Found this out on an old 38 super with a comped barrel. Gave it a "case hardened" finish.

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Best thing I have found is to mix hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar in equal parts. Plug the barrel and fill the barrel with this mixture. Let stand for a half hour. (It will look like pop bubbles rising up. This is good it's working.) Pour out and make a couple of passes with a cotton patch. The lead comes out like a sludge. One patch of gun scrubber and your done. Warning: Can take off the blueing on some guns. Found this out on an old 38 super with a comped barrel. Gave it a "case hardened" finish.

+ a bunch on this method it really works.

Scott

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The best way to remove lead and copper fouling without a lot of elbow grease, IMO, is to aquire one of the Outer's Foul Out systems. I think the current one is the III, I have the II model and I love it. Only takes a few hours depending on how much lead or copper fouling there is.

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i am amazed you have so much lead. I would try a different brand of bullet. I shot 155gr swc 45 in my comp gun for years. I would clean the barrel every 1000 rd or so. I used the old brush and chore boy technique. I just sounds to me like you had some really soft bullets.

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I too would change my bullet manufacturer. You should not be getting that much lead. I push my lead to over 1044 in my . 38 to make major and don't worry about leading. It's a combination of the bullet material, the lube and the powder. Find someone that's casting with a harder lead. If you can cut it with your fingernail it'ss too soft.

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The Zero lead is very hard. I am starting to

think that the owner I got it from may have not

cleaned the 625 before I purchased it! And "I"

never looked to see just how dirty it was, at the

range I shot only 50 rds. Then checked to see if

there was any leading- I don't think that much

lead could have been left behind with so few

rounds? :unsure:

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Thanks to all-

I'll start with the least expensive,

then work my way up to the Brownells

unit. BUT no more lead- FMJ from now

on! :cheers: Any need Zero 230LRN?

They always used to be swaged soft bullets? Load them to minor PF for practice and use them up or sell them to a Cowboy action shooter that can use them.

Edited by Round_Gun_Shooter
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  • 4 months later...
Best thing I have found is to mix hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar in equal parts. Plug the barrel and fill the barrel with this mixture. Let stand for a half hour. (It will look like pop bubbles rising up. This is good it's working.) Pour out and make a couple of passes with a cotton patch. The lead comes out like a sludge. One patch of gun scrubber and your done. Warning: Can take off the blueing on some guns. Found this out on an old 38 super with a comped barrel. Gave it a "case hardened" finish.

+ a bunch on this method it really works.

Scott

I just tried this today. Far out! Man this is the ticket as long as you don't go over 15 minutes, you are good to go. I made sure to rinse the barrel afterward, blow dried it, and cleaned it again to be sure there wasn't any residue of the concoction left. The barrel looked like it had just come off the manufacturers bench. It is truly the best way.

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