Freddie the Swede Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 I ask for I have a nice S_I gun with a nice fitting 38 super slide and came across a 40 S&W slide. The problem is that the 40S&W slide is really sloppy on the frame and I don't want to do anything to the frame. Is there a simple way if tightning the slide or must I leave it to a smith? My biggest problem is that there is almost no pistolsmiths in Sweden (Europe) where I live. Any thoughts?? //Fredrik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory_k Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 (edited) You could put the slide in a vice and "gently" clamp the slide, to reduce side to side play. Edited January 19, 2009 by Gregory_k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 How sloppy is 'really sloppy'? You can get some side-to-side play out by squeezing the slide but vertical play is a LOT harder to get out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Trade, or sell it, for a slide with rails that can be fit to your frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitetrane98 Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 How sloppy is 'really sloppy'? You can get some side-to-side play out by squeezing the slide but vertical play is a LOT harder to get out. Yep, gonna be tough to get any vertical play out if you're unwilling to tweak the frame. Peening the frame rail is pretty much the accepted cure. I have read of shimming the slide with superglue and pieces of feeler gauge but it's temporary at best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastshooter03 Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Has anybody tig welded the bottom of the slide while in a container of water for less heat buildup? Then recut to proper thickness? I thought about doing this but haven't Pulled the torch trigger yet. Dad didn't want the foot pedal Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry273 Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 you could just shoot it loose and have a built-in excuse for mikes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 I do weld, but Im not a TIG expert by any means, but I dont think youll want to introduce water to a process where you run an electric current through the metal. Has anybody tig welded the bottom of the slide while in a container of water for less heat buildup? Then recut to proper thickness?I thought about doing this but haven't Pulled the torch trigger yet. Dad didn't want the foot pedal Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Has anybody tig welded the bottom of the slide while in a container of water for less heat buildup? Then recut to proper thickness?I thought about doing this but haven't Pulled the torch trigger yet. Dad didn't want the foot pedal Nick It will bend the slide. I did it on an TZ75 years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Have you considered Accurail? The receiver and both slides need to be sent in but you will not need to worry about one slide wearing loose much faster than the other. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperman Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Has anybody tig welded the bottom of the slide while in a container of water for less heat buildup? Then recut to proper thickness?I thought about doing this but haven't Pulled the torch trigger yet. Dad didn't want the foot pedal Nick The proper way to do this is with a paste that stops the heat transfer. Water and any form of arc welding sounds like a really bad idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 You can't lay material on a slide rail fast enough to not warp it regardless of heat stop method. It just doesn't work. If you put enough heat on it to penetrate and add material you are screwed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfinney Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 (edited) Hammers, vises, and files.... the old school gunsmith way invloved peening the rails downward, squeezing the slide, and refitting with files and lappping compounds using rawhide hammers or special handles to move the slide back and forth til it loosens up on the frame just enough. Art rather than science. Most gunsmiths today skip these old methods and just use CNC new parts. Kind of a lost art, if you have it. Ask yourself: does the gun run ? does it shoot consistently inside a small pie plate at 25 yds? If so, why bother taking the slop out. Usually tight guns just get more finicky anyway. Edited January 22, 2009 by sfinney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperman Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 You can't lay material on a slide rail fast enough to not warp it regardless of heat stop method. It just doesn't work. If you put enough heat on it to penetrate and add material you are screwed. I guess I should have said the proper way to control heat while welding doesn't involve water. I have no experience welding on a slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acowboy Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 years ago, used to weld the rail corners of the frame to clearance slide,,but, after much shooting, the weld would wear, and you were back where you started..never figgured that one out, as the weld was harder than hell....and, as for pinching the slide,,,anything made after 70,(colt), was hard and brittle.....guess how i know that!! too much is made of slide/frame fit....if the barrel is fitted right to the slide, its gonna shoot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastshooter03 Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Our super welder at work said welding in water is not a problem but the warping was an unknown. I was thinking of this months ago when selling that loose sti/infinity limited gun but the gun really isn't that bad and welding didn't seem worth it when someone could spend a few hundred $$ and have it accu-railed. So the answer on how to fix a loose gun is to buy another frame and slide, refit them both, and have two guns Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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