nitetrane98

OK, got it, thanks all.

OK, I'm pretty sure you meant loaded guns. But if a range is a "cold range" loaded guns are not allowed anywhere except the firing line. I've really got no problem with "rules are rules" but to DQ 2 grown men standing at the trunk of a car seems a bit much. Would there be any area where someone could attempt to fix a gun that suddenly developed a FTF problem or is it a matter of "run what you brung"?

I'm a noob who has never been to a match. I'm trying to learn all I can. Are these safe areas bullet proof? Does someone inspect all weapons entering the safe area to make sure they are clear? What are you allowed to do with you gun in the safe area? I guess what I'm asking is what makes handling a gun in the safe area any safer than handling it anywhere else?

Though the balance might not be quite the same in shooting and sprinting, I think you're on the right track. Much like stealing second base, if you move your right foot first, you are no closer to second base than you were before you started. A crossover step will always get you to where you're going faster. Now, I'm a lurker here and don't know much about shooting on the move, but I do know something about stealing bases. I would guess that unless it upsets your shooting balance too much it's always better to move your furthest away from the direction you want to go foot first.

I'm trying to think of any technique that actually requires pulling the trigger to be demonstrated. A student cannot see through the instructor's eyes, he can't feel the instructor's trigger finger or grip pressure. A full speed demonstration would only serve to satisfy a student's argument that "It can't be done that way" or perhaps, "This way is better." But if he's there to argue, he's not there to learn anyway. Every technique has fuzzy edges. Few are set in stone. I agree that at the end of a course I would like to be able to see the instructor be able to say, "If you use the techniques I have taught you and you correctly practice them through thousands of repetitions, you can do at least this." BAM BAM BAM. Now, having said that, our LEO trainer was a retired FBI agent who likely forgot more about shooting than most of us in his class would ever know. He wasn't OMG fast anymore, this was before gun games anyway, but you certainly didn't want to blame your sights or gun for misses. He would take it and promptly remove the X from the target for you. So much for that excuse. But my point is, we trusted his knowledge and experience, he didn't have to prove anything to us.

Home Depot sells this little kit. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...25X-_-100008764 I've used these. They're not bad. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/uni007.html Don't know anything about the first one but I can guarantee that it will be fussy about humidity what with having to siphon up the media. Of course even the big industrial units are fussy about humidity.

I don't know anything about the gun paints but I suspect they will all do better with a little "tooth" applied to the surface. You can blue any texture you want. The controlling factor in how much a blued surface shines is how highly polished it was before it was blued. You can go all the way from a mirror polished finish down through various sandpaper grits to bead blasting with corresponding luster when the blue is applied.

There's a lot of different grades of sand and what they call it that different suppliers use. The stuff I used on mine was called Black Diamond #5. It was what they used to call sugar sand. Blasting will cover up some stuff but isn't a panacea. It'll make some scratches less noticable unless you are trying to notice them. I don't know if yours is SS but if it is, do yourself a favor and empty the cabinet and put in fresh media. If you don't you'll run the risk of getting some carbon contamination in your SS if some specks of carbon steel from a previous blasting embed in the surface. You won't notice this until you don't wipe it down and put it away for while in a humid environment. Trust me on this, I know. I used about 100lb pressure. Keep the nozzle well away from the surface and and use a dusting stroke back and forth. If you "bear down" with it you'll create smears that won't go away. Take care not to blast against the edge of your tape in a manner that will lift it. You won't be blasting like you would for removing rust/paint, etc. I tried to keep the nozzle as perpendicular to the surface as possible. The affect is more uniform that way.

Thanks for the info. That's clearly out of my league. I was just thinking it would be cool to have something a little different. I sure would like to see a pic of it if you can pull it off.

Are the ball mills something like this? http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXN...PMT4NO=57139112 That's intriguing to me. I wonder what the visual effect would be? Have to do the math to figure the LPI. Is 20K rpm optimal for that size. I don't know what my buddy's regular mill will do. But he has top of the line CNC available too. What would you consider minimum? What about shrink fit holders and balancers??? Is this not just a chuck it up and go to town deal? Thanks.

Haha. Yeah, that's what I meant to say.

It depends on what size of LPI you're going to use. In my case, I want 40 lpi so my flat width needs to be a multiple of .025. I'm thinking in the neighborhood of a .400 wide flat. I'm going to countersink my serration area about .010 to leave a little shoulder edge to protect the serrations

Thanks, ya'll. One more question then. Do you think HSS would stand up for one slide? For my woodworking I usually buy carbide but in some instances HSS makes a cleaner cut when it is brand new and it's just a matter of how long it will stay sharp. And of course they're a little cheaper. Haven't talked to my machinist buddy yet but I never show up with a hand full of gimme and a mouth full of much obliged. Matt, that was exactly what I had seen.

Does anybody know what kind of tool is used for the very fine serrations on the tops of a slide? I could have sworn i saw a tool for that on Brownell's website but I can't seem to find it again. Is it something like a splitter tool with beveled edges? Maybe like a threading tap? I've heard of using a tap with super fine threads with 3 of the 4 sides ground down in a pinch. It seems like even that would have to have some kind of angle to them. Is it possible they can broach that fine? It seems like the serrations on the top of my Delta Gold Cup are at least 50 lpi.

I've read that it's usually an extraction and ejection problem that queers the deal, not a matter of feeding. I think we're thinking along the sames lines about a fun thing. I think I'd be able to live with 85-90% reliabllilty for a plinker. I'm not a gamer.