Nemo Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 My smithy finished revitalizing my springfield skinny gun. He asked me if I wanted it Duracoated or blued and I went for the bluing because the next step is to get the slide hard chromed and the frame IonBonded. I asked him to polish the slide's flats and would like to keep it that way for when it goes to the hard chrome. Would the plater have to blast the slide to remove the bluing prior to applying the chrome or is there a chemical way to remove the blue without altering the metal surface? If it will require blasting, I think I'll keep it blued until it's back to in-the-white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cheely Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) Acid But the plater will prep the surface anyway... Edited January 8, 2009 by Matt Cheely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 The chromer doesn't care what the finish is, blue it and send it when you are ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganShootist Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 This is a tiny bit of a drift...(sorry Nemo).... but how do they take off e-nickle???? Sand blast???? I have a Colt that needs a make over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 It is chemically stripped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UltraTen Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 This is a tiny bit of a drift...(sorry Nemo).... but how do they take off e-nickle???? Sand blast???? I have a Colt that needs a make over. Acid strip, it takes forever to remove nickel that way depending on the thickness. If you sandblast it there is a good chance of blowing all of the tolerances. Depending on what is wrong with your nickel you could probably buff out all of the imperfections. A brass or silver polish can remove all the light stuff. A polishing compound can get rid of the heavier stuff. Just don't over do it. e-nickel is tuff stuff!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemo Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 I'll just shoot it until the kydex and my sweat take care of the bluing. Then DMH and Loves2Shoot can take care of my two-tone plan. Thanx folks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganShootist Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Ultra ten Said Depending on what is wrong with your nickel you could probably buff out all of the imperfections.A brass or silver polish can remove all the light stuff. A polishing compound can get rid of the heavier stuff. Just don't over do it. This is flat e-nickel factory Colt finnish... which is not a finish that could be improved with any of these sugggestions (to my knowledge) This is a 35 year old gun and it needs to have the finish stripped. It's a Combat Commander and I want to use it as a base gun for a re-build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UltraTen Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Ultra ten SaidDepending on what is wrong with your nickel you could probably buff out all of the imperfections.A brass or silver polish can remove all the light stuff. A polishing compound can get rid of the heavier stuff. Just don't over do it. This is flat e-nickel factory Colt finnish... which is not a finish that could be improved with any of these sugggestions (to my knowledge) This is a 35 year old gun and it needs to have the finish stripped. It's a Combat Commander and I want to use it as a base gun for a re-build. Didn't realize it was a flat e-nickel finish, your right, what I suggested won't work. I'm used to seeing bright nickel, guess I just assumed. If your going to keep the finish as it is your not going to have to strip it completely, but if your going to put any other finish on it, then the old nickel is going to have to go. Check with some of your local platers, they should be able to do it for you. If you can't find one let me know, I know of a couple here in New York that can do it for you. Good luck on your project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireant Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Nemo, Wait until you see the work Daniel is turning out now. My open gun just returned from the new plating and all I can say is that I'll need to wear sunglasses in the morning to shoot it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Nemo,Wait until you see the work Daniel is turning out now. My open gun just returned from the new plating and all I can say is that I'll need to wear sunglasses in the morning to shoot it. This is from Plate-tacular? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireant Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Yes, Daniel from Plate-Tacular. I have a so-so picture of it in the gallery in the open gun topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Yes, Daniel from Plate-Tacular. I have a so-so picture of it in the gallery in the open gun topic. You aren't kidding about the brightness!! I contacted Daniel a while back, he indicated to get back to him in January, now I will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgunz11 Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Nemo, The guy that did my Edge after Matt lightened it did an awesome job. I'll let you look at it when I see you in 2 weeks and fill you in on the details. He's going to be doing the lower half of my Trojan here soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Meek Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 My smithy finished revitalizing my springfield skinny gun. He asked me if I wanted it Duracoated or blued and I went for the bluing because the next step is to get the slide hard chromed and the frame IonBonded. I asked him to polish the slide's flats and would like to keep it that way for when it goes to the hard chrome.Would the plater have to blast the slide to remove the bluing prior to applying the chrome or is there a chemical way to remove the blue without altering the metal surface? If it will require blasting, I think I'll keep it blued until it's back to in-the-white. Orange Juice does a pretty good job of removing gun bluing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgunz11 Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 So does the acid in my sweaty hands! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Meek Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 So does the acid in my sweaty hands! I hear that one, I can rust a gun quicker than almost anyone out there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgunz11 Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 HA! I made my Hard Chrome rust before Matt lightened it. Since I got it redone I keep it soaked with WD-40! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cheely Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 HA! I made my Hard Chrome rust before Matt lightened it. Since I got it redone I keep it soaked with WD-40! Try a REAL oil. WD40 has some of the worst anti-rust properties that you can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgunz11 Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Wanna recommend something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 My favorite is Corrosion-X, one of their largest stocking dealers happens to be local to me. I get the standard / general purpose version in the pump spray bottle. While not mentioned on their website, the stuff is used for tons of Military applications where corrosion is a problem. Otherwise, common Break-Free should work better than WD-40 for you. This stuff is also great for thinning out Slide Glide. If anyone wants to try some out but can't obtain it, shoot me a PM. http://www.corrosionx.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cheely Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Wanna recommend something? Anything you have around that is oil, FP10, Breakfree, motor oil, whatever. WD40 is for water displacement. It isn't lubricious and evaporates in short order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgunz11 Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 I was planning to get some FP-10 anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 So does the acid in my sweaty hands! I hear that one, I can rust a gun quicker than almost anyone out there Makes sense since blueing is a form of rust. Any rust-removing product (such as Navel Jelly or Jasco Prep and Prime) will strip blueing. Main ingredient tends to be phosphoric acid IIRC. I just blast the blueing off in prep for parkerizing, since the acid tended to just make a mess of things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 I have a buddy that I can give most any thing to and he can rust it by just rubbing his hands on it. even some stainless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now