Paradox

18" JP LRP shooting M118LR (175 SMK) easily and consistently does less than MOA out to 600. The rifle is more accurate/consistent than the ammo... With bit of load development, either should give you plenty of practical accuracy. John Paul makes good stuff!

Hello all, I wasn't sure if I should post this in the reloading forum - but it seemed like my target audience would be concentrated in here. I haven't used any JLK VLD bullets yet, but they list a G1 BC of ".620??" for the 130 grain 6.5mm's. That sounds really optimistic to me!?? Secondly, are they consistent enough to "plug and play" (no sorting)? I have been meaning to pick up Brian Litz's new book; did he happen to test them? Link to Bullet -> JLK Bullets Home I do know that they have been used in various rifle disciplines in the past, but it seems most everyone has moved to yellow, silver, green, or red boxes of bullets... Of course, that might be due to other circumstances such as availability, cost, etc... Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

As previously stated, I don't think you will have any problems. Every LE qualification I have ever shot had very generous time constraints compared to what you will find at a match. A confidence building exercise would be to practice shooting 3"x5" note cards turned vertically. This closely approximates the X / 10 ring on a B27 target. I think the FLETC uses the "bowling pin" targets, but it doesn't matter. Focus on fundamentals. Practice calling your shots. The point is to increase the distance you can keep 6 rounds on the card. It shouldn't take long before you can stack all of them in beyond 25M. When that gets easy, try strong hand and weak hand in the same manner.

That's a purdy rifle Does JP make that stock, or is it someone else's? It kind of looks like the McRee's Precision...?

I went out on a limb and tried the new NF 1 piece 20MOA mount... After shooting it this weekend with M118LR, I finally lucked out and got a factory rifle that shoots! I am eager to find out what some Green / Yellow / Red box reloads are going to do...

I haven't bought any rings yet, I was going to purchase the TPS set (they are currently out of stock). After reading the comments here, I think I want the steel 20MOA Farrell base. I have no idea on the rings - should I get steel rings to match the steel base or does that matter? I was hoping to get the whole set for around $200. If Badger is the *only* way to go, I don't want to buy twice... For example, the TPS Rings / Base is around $115.00, the Badger set is around $285. Inexpensive is good, but I don't want cheap Like the thread starter, I was hoping to get a good $$$ / performance suggestion. Thanks in advance!

I just picked up a new Remington 700 5R, and need a base and rings for it. I have a Nightforce NXS / NPR-1 reticle with a 50mm objective on the way. Can someone tell me what height rings fit closest to the barrel and still allow for flip up covers? I was going to purchase the TPS set, but not after reading this thread. Now, I will order the Farrell - any suggestions on rings to fit the above requirements?

My favorite is Corrosion-X, one of their largest stocking dealers happens to be local to me. I get the standard / general purpose version in the pump spray bottle. While not mentioned on their website, the stuff is used for tons of Military applications where corrosion is a problem. Otherwise, common Break-Free should work better than WD-40 for you. This stuff is also great for thinning out Slide Glide. If anyone wants to try some out but can't obtain it, shoot me a PM. http://www.corrosionx.com/

I thought it was a comedy....

It's half the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow... Ya-h! After a quick look, I *think* most pistol sights are regulated to adjust 1/2" @ 25 per click. However, you have a 34/35. The adjustments have different values compared to a 17/22. Just wanted to clarify the Model (sight radius) for those in the know...

The last time I checked this skill was during the summer. Three of my shooting buddies were going for broke on draws. Drawing a G22 from a Blade Tech DOH @ 5yds - First draw was a .74, then I pushed a bit for a .62, the last two draws were a .53 and a .52. (I decided to stop while I was ahead). All A's. However, if I am going to shoot more than 1 round on a target and in a match, I am very happy with a .90 - 1.1 and a solid / consistent grip. I found that that drawing to 8" plates @ 25+ with the goal of always hitting them and dropping time was a far better drill (for me). Shooting at that distance really helps fine tune my draw.

Mick, The only thing I have to add, is I prefer the Wylde chamber over a 5.56... I am too lazy to look at Rock River's website, but I think you can get one chromed in that chambering. -Justin

We are lucky to have CPA's and an Attorney that graciously take care of the paper work. It is a little more headache to be incorporated, but is worth it IMO. Officers do not get paid for service (reimbursement excluded), and for a thankless job we offer 'free memberships' to help. One possible workaround for non-members at matches is to include a section in your bylaws that states (paraphrased) non-members will be sold a one day member pass as part of the match fee... Of course double check this as law is NOT my line of profession. Another suggestion is to find a club and officer that has been around the block so to speak. There are plenty of options and pitfalls to avoid!

Yup, and this occurs well after I had sworn off anything other than a plain black serrated sight. I thought I had reached the pinnacle of iron sightedness (is that a word?) when I found the "perfect" FS / RS width relationship for me. Then he calls and says, "Hey I am toying with this idea, you NEED to check it out." I figured the practice session would turn into another affirmation that I really do hate FO sights. Keep in mind this is after I learned what AIMING actually means. After switching between a plain black / FO for half the day, I came up with some absolutes (for me). In my opinion, whether or not you "like" a FO or not depends your skill level. If anyone is reading this and can't decide which one to use - check out my synopsis: 1.) As a beginning shooter: "Oh neat, I have this aiming device that will *make* me shoot really fast and accurately." Ok, now I am aiming (part of the time) with this colored blob on the front of my gun. It doesn't matter that I am getting marginal (at best) hits, but wait! After an undetermined amount of rounds downrange I start to see this brightly colored blob lift in recoil and finally settle back into the rear notch. Ding! Stepping stone #101. 2.) After another inordinate yet undetermined amount of ammo downrange, and I think "You know this red blobby thing is kind of annoying, I already see the sights and it is getting in the way of my group / precise shooting". At this point I decide to replace the FO with a plain black sight. Amazing! My hits are now squarely planted in the A zone, and my groups dramatically shrink. Ding! So this is aiming? Stepping stone #102. 3.) Soon after learning and employing the process of aiming and calling shots, I start playing with different sized FS widths and RS notches. A relatively thin one seems fast up close (with lots of light on the sides), but now I suffer from the marginal hit problem at distance (requires more focus). Maybe a larger FS width may work? After toying with different relationships, I find that the "secret" is the correct preportion of black sight and light on the sides. As a bonus, a correct relationship (for me) is just as fast up close and still offers excellent accuracy at distance. Ding! Aiming part II. 4.) Quite a few matches later someone says, "Hey dummy! You should try a FO again." The short version is, I can aquire the FO faster for closer stuff and use it properly to make the more difficult shots. *As a side note on my definition of "difficult", we were having fun taking turns scaring 12Ga hulls @ 25yds with the "new" sight. Occasionally, we did hit them with many "OMG!, that was sooo close!". This is a condensed version of my experiences, but hopefully you get the drift. If there is a step after #4 I have yet to experience it... Additionally, (we have already heard this from Brian) - IF you have the visual patience to use the FO up close and not use it for more difficult shots, you will have the best of both worlds. Personally, I found myself getting lazy later in the practice session and shooting the 'dot' more often on tight stuff; which resulted in misses / poor hits. Of course, this is just the first of many trials. Ironically, (yes I can laugh at myself) I took the really long way to figure out the only "secret" is to actually use the little machined bumps on the slide Everything else is just personal preference! Use whatever it takes for YOU to make the shot... P.S. - If you do try a FO, I think the advice given by Voight is a good guideline for proper setup...

Hey Sam, thanks for the kind words I think the "stiff" competition was a result of the after-match festivities - LOL I'll take what I can get! On the other hand Sam and Rodney have some kind of Jedi mind control on me, I hate shooting against friends... Again, congrats to Odie DeHan, Rodney May, and Bret Kuhns!! -Justin

Steel1212, This was shot at A4 this year. If you look at the scores for stage 1 you might get an idea for the "insert class here" Hf's. The 'trick' is to relax, hit all A's, and don't flub the draw or reload. The hit factor on this classifier is insane, so *any* lost time will hurt. A 3.57 run for each string sounds about right. Personally, I think there are other drills that will give you more bang for the buck at B class...

Is this going to be a Level II or Level III match?

In lieu of taking a $3,000+ plunge for an Open gun experiment, I'm tinkering with the idea of putting a Cmore on my G17. I will not be building an all out Open gun (yet anyway), just adding the dot and some mouse-fart 9mm loads. The temptation to turn to the dark side is there, but I want to 'learn' what I can from the dot for now. I already have a CR Speed holster from the days of shooting Limited with a G35. From what I have read thus far (yes I did search) my choices are the S&J mount or a Carver? I don't want this to be a permanent modification (this G17 is my Production backup). I would prefer to have a relatively low mounting height relative to the bore, but according to others I can run into ejection issues. I DO NOT want a slide ride type optic. So, what is the least painful way to get one of those glass and plastic thingamijiggs on my pistol?

Most people seem to dislike the large frame Glocks because of the extra size - I actually find them far more comfortable. When shooting Limited, I modified the frame to better fit my hand; now that I am shooting Production those modifications are not an option. One of my issues occured with the extended slide release - I grew to absolutely HATE the factory supplied extended slide release. Since then I have just replaced all of the extended releases with the factory standard length one. Instead of holding it down, I was pushing it into the slide causing malfuctions. (I can actually create either malfunction on demand with the standard length release as well... just now I have to make a concious effort) I do like the large frame magazine release (extended on a small frame), but can do just fine without it - a personal preference. To better address your question, I spent a lot of time finding 'my grip' for a Glock. It just took a little bit of trial and error to get the results I wanted. My strong hand thumb rides along the frame, but I am not putting any pressure on it. If you are putting pressure on the frame and activating the slide release, you are probably torguing the pistol around. Remember, the idea is to have a neutral grip. Attempt to describe my grip: Start with the strong hand on the pistol, index finger along the frame, thumb pointing up, and the web of my hand as high as possible without getting slide bite. Using my weak hand, I have an index point (found through practice) on my index finger that rests under the trigger guard. As I present the pistol, my weak hand thumb rolls forward ending up pointing at the target, then 'meshes' with my strong hand. At this point, both of your hands should cover as much of the grip as possible. For me, the slide release isn't even close to my thumb, more like the fleshy part of my hand below the first joint of my thumb. My strong hand thumb then lays down flat against the weak hand thumb (both pointing at the target) in a natural / relaxed position. I find that a backwards "D" shaped space is created between my weak hand and the slide release. On second thought if what I wrote isn't clear, this is definately a case where a picture is worth 1000 words... I imagine there are plenty of pictures on the forum (I believe there are a few of Brian holding a hand gun on the main site.) See if you are using a 'modern' grip first. Or, if you have a top-down picture of your grip I can see what you are doing. Hope this Helps!

Holy inflation Batman! Last time I bought a lower... Well it wasn't THAT long ago...

While on the topic of lowers, and someone mentioned MagPul's... Anyone know what MSRP will be? When are they supposed to be availible? I don't really NEED another lower, but I might WANT another

I had mixed success with DVD Shrink. After I compressed the video, I would often get audio issues (depending on how the video was encoded). DVD Shrink was created to compress Dual Layer movies so they would fit on a (cheaper) Single Layer DVD. The trick is that not all compression software is equal. I have seen a noticeable difference in movie quality depending on the 'shrinking' software. Of course, if you are watching the movie on a 480 line monitor/TV you won't tell as much of a difference. After you remove the encyrption / copy protection, DVD Copy by Intervideo has worked extremely well for me. However, it is not freeware.

DanM - Giggle That is a lot of loaded ammo for me to have around, most of mine are in components. I keep at least 30 Gallons of .40 brass on hand - but since I load .40 Minor / .40 Major (Short) / and .40 Major (Long), I just load 500-1000 as needed. Hi, my name is Justin. I have this problem where if I take the time to load ammo - it usually gets shot up shortly thereafter 9mm - 5K .45 - 3K .223 - 10K .308 - 1K .38 / .357 - 1K 12GA - 1K

I don't think you will like the moly bullets in an open gun (at Major velocities anyway) unless you enjoy scraping lead out of your barrel and comp I don't know of anyone that shoots non-jacketed bullets in an open gun.

I have been looking for those.. where'd you get them?