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2011 + hacksaw + files + small drill press


want2race

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The lubricant is SLiP2000 EWL. It's thicker than CLP but not as thick as a grease. Although slide glide would probably work on the O-ring as well, I won't use it on the rest of the gun. Since using two different lubes would put me into the OCD side of things I'm sticking to the EWL for awhile.

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  • 2 months later...

I did a bit more finishing on the slide to smooth out some of the original machine marks and also clean up some of the lines.

Blasted and Manganese Phosphate parkerized.

The barrel now has 3 flats to reduce weight. 3/16th's parallel round file and a couple of 10 inch hand files (and a LOT of measuring and eye-balling). Barrel lock up is even tighter since I parkarized it.

The gun is still shiny because it's wet with oil still. I leave them wet after the park job for about a week.

This is the magazine I shortened to fit flush. Was a 138mm SVI tube. Cut and reformed the lips. Holds 15. I had the A-grip on my G34. I liked it. Wanted to try it for a carry gun. No more rough checkering on my skin when I carry IWB. I bought a Rock Jr. bench rest and a nice leather bag. I'm hitting the range on friday to shoot it at 25 yards. I'm not worried.

Also shown is the "cheap Woodford" bourbon. Old Forester, same taste, costs less. I felt this was appropriate for this project.

HacksawRF1.jpg

Hacksawfront.jpg

HacksawslidebackL.jpg

Hacksawbarrel2.jpg

Hacksawbarrel1-1.jpg

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I think its amazing what you have done with this pistol :excl:

The third picture down looks like an advertisement on the back of some really cool magazine that I would love to have a subscription to. Nice work and I agree about the Old Forester :cheers:

Edited by Loose Brass
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I'm hitting the range on friday to shoot it at 25 yards. I'm not worried.

Better take it out to 50....everybody knows that is the preferred yardage for any kind of real accuracy test from a defensive handgun fending off evil doers that would harm innocent puppies. :rolleyes:

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Man, brings back memories of turning my bull barrel 6" round top slide gun into a 5" tri-top gun with a hacksaw, water cooled benchgrinder, and hand files... liberal coats of moly paint....... wish I had the pics. Yours turned out a little better, but it was functional none the less. Who needs a lathe? :cheers:

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Made yet another change. Since this has a short recoil system (short plug) I had to chop down an 18# recoil spring. It's nearly half the original length. It had functioned just fine thus far but since the recoil spring was so short there was very little spring preload when the slide was fully locked into battery. In other words, the recoil spring wasn't compressed much with the slide closed. This worried me a bit, if it were to get dirty I feared that the slide may stop just shy of fully closed causing a stoppage.

The spring couldn't be any longer due to spring bind. I couldn't use any other spring but an 18 because the 18 has the widest coil spacing (least number of total coils per given length).

The cure? A Glock flat wire spring. EGW sells such a kit (flat wire spring, .250" diameter guide rod and matched plug) but I'm too cheap to shell out the $50 for it. I took apart an old Glock guide rod/spring assembly from my old Glock 35. I had previously cut 5 coils off the 16# spring. The outer diameter was just .020 smaller than the 1911 spring. I used an EGW solid guide rod, thinned it down to .235" (spring ID = .245") on the drill press and cut it to a commander length.

Compared to the 18# spring I took out of it, the cut Glock spring was still 1 inch longer. The fully compressed length of the flat wire spring is 25% less (or more) than the fully compressed round wire spring.

Installed it and it feels perfect. It feels just like a full length recoil system, good tension keeping the slide closed, smooth action while cycling the slide. No spring bind. The only downside is that you can see the flat wire a bit in the open ended reverse plug. There is plenty of shoulder to hold the spring in though, it's merely a cosmetic thing. I may make a .010" sleeve to put inside the reverse plug to keep the spring completely centered for better visual appeal but for now it's fine.

There you have it. I took the only good part of a Glock and installed into a 2011. :lol:

Edited by want2race
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I have to ask.......what is your next project????? :blink:

He's gonna seamlessly weld it all back together.

With a match. :ph34r:

Don't be ridiculous! I'll use 2 car batteries wired together, hold a welding rod with jumper cables and zip it back together that way.

LOL!

RANGE TRIP:

Woo Hoo. Love it when I can get out for some extra trigger time. Took the wife, 3 yr/old, Steel1212 and his better half too. Function tested the flat wire spring set up. It was too stiff and the rails were a bit dry. It functioned, but ejection was weak. Some oil and leatherman'd two coils off the spring. Perfect. 4 O'clock ejection about 3 feet out. Tested with IDPA fart loads, IPSC major loads and let the wife shoot it too.

We moved over to do some bench shooting since I was called out. Seems that 25 and 50 yard groups are needed to truly showcase a CCW pistols true accuracy. Held the pistol in a rested position and let rip with the first 5. 1.345" group at 25 yards. My eyesight is crap so I'm sure the gun can do better than I am capable. For me, shooting at 25 yards is a test of concentration, skill and eyesight. I'm happy with the results. O-ring on the barrel is still going strong. Earlier I did some tests using a few different o-rings. I swapped them out to check for changes in group size (at 15 yards because I can see the target at that distance) and POI shift. None noted.

My next project? Already underway. Open top end for my Limited frame. I have an old 5 inch top end with bull barrel. So far I've cut the barrel back .400" and reduced the diameter for a cone comp (yes, on the drill press). Already shortened the slide too. I had to outsource the threading and reaming the comp to .420" diameter bore. Can't do that on a 10" drill press and the dies to thread the barrel cost more than outsourcing it. Already have the aimpoint, double sided frame mount and 26 round .40 big stick.

Edited by want2race
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Two thoughts.

1. You've managed to improve on the VIP, which I imagine is a great carry and IDPA gun.

2. Glad to hear of yet another person joining the ranks of 40 cal open. I'm going that route because, like you, I already have all the parts. Just gotta put them together. However I'll be using my check book instead of my hacksaw.

Nice work.

splashdown

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  • 2 years later...

Update: Since the A grip wouldn't stay on I had Bobby (Freedom GW) apply a new texture to the thinned down grip. Turned out perfect. It has a very good feel to it but doesn't grab my shirt when I CCW. Cut down mod is holding up well. Even shot it at our indoor match last month. After this pic I installed one of my reverse curve triggers so that it feels just like my single stack and (old) 2011.

Picture is a little washed out but you get the idea. As it sits in my bed side pistol safe:

post-8536-092244300 1305914617_thumb.jpg

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