Scope Mount Questions

[Jack Suber]

Need some advice/guidance. I have an Dawson (aluminum?) mount for my C-More. The mount screws to the frame continue to come lose (the rear 3). I can Lock-tite them, but they come lose after two matches or so. The entire frame then moves up and down. I am frustrated. The screws are not stripped. I am using Lock-tite 242. Any recommendations? Should I use plumbers tape on the threads in addition to Lock-tite?

I really would like to put a Serendipity on the gun (to have save weight) but just don't have the time or $'s to do it right now. Does anyone make a carbon fiber mount for a C-more rail?

[Jon Merricks]

I wish I could remember which number I used, it was blue though. My screws stayed put unless I put the tourch to them.

[rupie]

There is more to loctite than just applying it. They also make a primer and if you use to much loctite it can effect the performance. Thread tape in your application will do nothing. Thread tape is used as a lubricant to make sure the treads tighten correctly. If this is semi permanent I would use red loctite (277) after using primer to make sure the threads are clean. Then apply one drop to one side of the threads put it at the tip at the end that screws in first. If you don't have primer a non residue cleaner like alcohol or carb cleaner.

[wide45]

One very important thing with locktite is all parts must be clean, and totally free of oil.

I clean the threaded holes with an alcohol soaked q-tip until it comes out clean. Use alcohol to clean all the other parts.

The primer will help, but is not necessary. It does not replace proper prep.

[Action Pistolero]

Like others have said, Red locktite and clean is the way to go. I use the red on all of my scope mounts. If I have to remove it within 6 months I have to heat it with a torch to get it off. Most of the time solvents will degrade the loctite after a year.

I run the screws in and out of the holes a few times to looses up the loctite that's still in the treads. I use the round wire brush that I have for my Dremel to clean the screw threads. For the holes in the gun I just spray gunscrubber in them. If they are really bad a tap does a good job of cleaning them out.

Before I apply the locktite I clean the screws with gun scrubber. I apply loctite to the holes in the frame and then each screw. It tends to make a mess but a patch with gunscrubber cleans things up.

Good luck,

Kevin

[Jack Suber]

Thanks for the feedback. I did clean the threads/frame with break cleaner and then alcohol. I let it sit for a day before I cleaned it again with alcohol. Then I blew it dry with a compressor and applied the Lock-tite after about 30 minutes. I am hoping my trouble is that I was using the blue Lock-tite (242). I picked up some red 271 (Permanent) Lock-tite. Is that what I want to use? By permanent, does that mean I am screwed if I want to remove the mount later?

[oldtrooper]

Thanks for the feedback. I did clean the threads/frame with break cleaner and then alcohol. I let it sit for a day before I cleaned it again with alcohol. Then I blew it dry with a compressor and applied the Lock-tite after about 30 minutes. I am hoping my trouble is that I was using the blue Lock-tite (242). I picked up some red 271 (Permanent) Lock-tite. Is that what I want to use? By permanent, does that mean I am screwed if I want to remove the mount later?

No but you will have to use heat before you can remove the screws. And, as Kevin said after several months the solvents used in cleaning the hand gun will cause it to degrade somewhat and they can be removed without heating.

[rtr]

I've always used red loctite, when the screws and holes are properly prepped red loctite has always held the screws very well for me.

[G-ManBart]

Ancient Open gunner's secret....well at least one I stole from someone else. After you've cleaned/degreased everything and put the fresh locktite on and installed the whole deal, take some clear nailpolish and use it to cover the screw ends and holes inside the dust cover. Grease/oil gets on the ends of the screws when you shoot the gun, it works it's way up the threads and that eventually breaks down the locktite

Edit:....yes, nailpolish, not nailpolish remover

Edited August 11, 2008 by G-ManBart

[Jack Suber]

Ancient Open gunner's secret....well at least one I stole from someone else. After you've cleaned/degreased everything and put the fresh locktite on and installed the whole deal, take some clear nailpolish remover and use it to cover the screw ends and holes inside the dust cover. Grease/oil gets on the ends of the screws when you shoot the gun, it works it's way up the threads and that eventually breaks down the locktite

You mean nail polish and not nail polish remover?

[SLM]

Yea, I'm sure he means polish, not remover. I haven't had any problems with Blue coming loose. Clean screws and threads with break cleaner, let dry and apply a drop to the screw. Run it in, snug it up good and leave it alone for a day. How clean is the air from your compressor? Some of them have a tendency to blow a little oil/water which will totally negate your cleaning efforts. If you want to make sure it's dry after you break cleaner it, use a hair dryer.

I bought a used gun someone used red on and I had a heck of a time getting those little mount screws out. A LOT of heat was required and I still stripped the head out on one. I called whoever put it together quite a few NOT nice names!

[G-ManBart]

Ancient Open gunner's secret....well at least one I stole from someone else. After you've cleaned/degreased everything and put the fresh locktite on and installed the whole deal, take some clear nailpolish remover and use it to cover the screw ends and holes inside the dust cover. Grease/oil gets on the ends of the screws when you shoot the gun, it works it's way up the threads and that eventually breaks down the locktite

You mean nail polish and not nail polish remover?

You're correct....thanks, I fixed it...doh!

[Huston in Austin]

When Dawson puts the scope mount on he uses loctite 620. It is green and rather thick. To remove it you have to use a torch to break it free, but oil and grease don't touch it.

[Dave Marques]

My .02...........

I have used 620 (green) and if you use it on small screws - even if it gets in contact with oil it still gums up the threads enough to mitigate unlocking of the screw. I have also used 222MS (purple) it is similar to the 620.

On the small screws you can get away with almost anything-but I have always had problems with 242 (blue). Not sure why.

[Jack Suber]

Well, I have cleaned everything and applied Lock-tite Red (271). Hopefully this will do it. Otherwise, I don;t know what to do short of welding the mount on . Its frustrating to shoot 3 or 4 stages in a match and be shooting well only to get the the 5th stage and have misses everywhere because your shots are either going over or under the target. Thanks for the feedback!

[HSMITH]

Not very scientific but my feeling on this is the guys that don't have problems with blue loctite are a lot more conservative with oil and grease than the guys that do have problems. Oil and grease eat the loctite and break it down.

I use Red 271 after having problems keeping the blue 242 tight, and a drop of nail polish over the end of the screw inside the dustcover to keep oil out. Works like a champ, they don't come loose until you want them to come loose and use plenty of heat.

[rupie]

Let us know how it worked for you!

[Front Man]

There is more to loctite than just applying it. They also make a primer and if you use to much loctite it can effect the performance. Thread tape in your application will do nothing. Thread tape is used as a lubricant to make sure the treads tighten correctly. If this is semi permanent I would use red loctite (277) after using primer to make sure the threads are clean. Then apply one drop to one side of the threads put it at the tip at the end that screws in first. If you don't have primer a non residue cleaner like alcohol or carb cleaner.

10/4 on the primer; a can will last forever if all you use Loctite for is mounting C-MORES.

FM