zhunter Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Then once you do get everything you need THROW AWAY THE CALCULATOR!! If you start adding up the cost, well...SEE Z's Post Above!! Just plain upsetting YEP, freakin' bullets got expensive lately!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 You probably ought to start beating the bushes in your area. Get to matches and ask around. Often, a group will get together and do an order for powder, primers and bullet. Thus, saving everybody money. Never hurts to ask around. Lee has a 4-die set that includes the FCD...all for about $25 from Midway. Those are all the dies you will ever need. Instead of the bullet puller, save up those bad rounds in a coffee can or something. 4 primer tubes means 400 rounds is the maximum you will likely load at any one sitting. You could load that many on an SDB in about an hour. (and the SDB comes with it's own dies...and it will have a good re-sale value if you later upgrade) Cheap calipers (Harbor Freight was mentioned) will serve you reloading purposes just fine. I am kinda mixed on the Dillon electronic scale. I love mine and have had good luck with it for years. But, it really doesn't get used much for our purposes. We tend to develop a load, then load a bunch of it...verifying that the powder charge is correct every so often. The case feeder kicks butt...no doubt about it. Everybody raves about the roller handle. I don't have one and won't be buying one. I use a shop rag (or sock) over the ball handle...works fine. I've used the Midway brass cleaning kit (frankford) for a number of years...no problems. I don't know if that is the cheapest route. I recall it being a good deal. When I had my SDB, it had a strong mount. I don't have the strong mount on the 650. I think you'd be fine just mounting it to a solid bench (you might need to spend money on the bench...it needs to be super-duper solid anyway). Case gauge is nice. To save money, you can take your barrel out of your gun and gauge directly in your chamber. Serves the same purpose. Chronos are nice and handy, but we don't use them often. You might ask around at the matches. Offer to "rent" some chrono time off somebody for $10 or something. (Chances are they won't charge you, but will want to be the one to shoot the gun over their screens.) You don't need the One-Shot case lube with carbide dies...but you will really want it. It's worth every penny. Midway has that $25 vibrating primer tube filler...it comes with it's own primers flipper tray. I can't believe I spent years loading without it. Often, there will be somebody in just about ever local area that is casting lead bullets. Usually, somebody local is doing it right. This could be a huge savings when practicing with 45. (maybe save the less smokey bullets for matches). But, I don't suggest you run many lead bullets in your G30. If you are going to shoot as much as it seems, it might be good to get a normally rifled barrel from Lone Wolf. (~$90). if you shoot a lot, you could pay for it in short order with the savings of buying lead locally (cheaper and no shipping added in). And, I gotta bring this up...you could save quite a bit by going to 9mm with your Steyr M model..the one with the goofy sights is supposed to be a pretty solid gun. (Heck, used G17's can be had for $350) If I were starting this game with what I know now... - used G17 - SDB in 9mm If you later decide to upgrade...you'll get most of your money back out of both of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMcCracken Posted February 14, 2007 Author Share Posted February 14, 2007 Thanks guys. I appreciate the support. Someone on another thread mentioned the signal-to-noise ratio for this forum being good, and I have to agree whole heartedly. Now, I gotta go to work/school/hospital. Keep the advice coming as you think of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irishlad Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 At 200 rounds a week or less, you are in the "lightweight" category like me. I use a SDB which easily loads 4-500 rounds per hour which means you have to load 30 minutes a week...for example. It comes with dies and you bolt onto a bench and begin the reloading process, more or less. Buy a balance beam measure, flip tray, One-shot lube(must have with SDB IMO), case cleaner and separator. For many years I use a $3.00 sliding pocket caliber because I "gauged" the reloads to new ammo. Just "marked" the caliber and loaded to that measure...stone age...but! Later I bought a digital. Don't "borrow" money, so to speak, to try and save on on big bulk buys. Buy 1,000 pieces of brass for now, 1000 bullets, 4 lbs powder and you probably need to buy the 5,000 primers because of shipping, etc. Order as needed or as money "comes in". I don't consider reloading components as "start-up" costs really, because that takes the place of new ammo you would have bought. You "pay off" the press and accessories because you don't need them if you buy new ammo. If I was buying new today, I'd take a real hard look at the 550 also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boo radley Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 I could not agree more with Flex's post. I've had expensive dies for my 650, and have happily settled on the cheap Lee 4-die set for both .45acp and .40. I only went a year with "pecking" primers, before buying the $25 vibrating gizmo from Midway (ha), but I chortle every time I use it. Don't be afraid to look on eBay or post a WTB in various forums for things like scale, calipers, tumbler, etc. Depending on how much you're really shooting, an SDB in the caliber of your choice, might be a great way to go. Use it for a year or so, and if/when ready, upgrade. I can't imagine the 650 w/out a case-feeder. It shouldn't even be an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Hello; Here are my thoughts on your reloading choice. Buying a 650 with no case feeder makes no sense at all. You might as well get the Square Deal and save the money for bullets. I have the SDB and love it. I tried a friends 550,650 and 1050. That was a bad day since I really wanted the 650 next but did'nt like the primer seating. I prefered the 550 primer seating. Best of all is I really like the 1050 setup. So what I would do is buy the SDB, use it for a year then decide if you need another/faster press. After that time sell the SDB and lose $20 on the resale and get the 1050 ;-). Dillon also have a deal right now on the 1050 with a payment program that may work for you. Lastly don't count out the Square deal I love mine and will keep it and get the 1050---maybe. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray1 Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 I'll post my wish list and welcome any suggestions on things to wait to get later: From Brian- $786.24 + shipping Dillon XL 650 in 45acp "As it should be" upgrade Spare parts kit 4 pack large primer pickup tubes 45acp Case Guage D-Terminator Electronic Scale From MidwayUSA - $381.71 + $40hazmat +shipping Frankford Arsenal Impact Bullet puller Hornady One Shot Case Lube 5.5oz Aerosol RCBS Primer Tray Hodgdon Clays Smokeless 4lb. Chrony F1 Chronograph CCI Large Pistol Primers box of 5000 Frankford Arsenal Electric Calipers Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die Redding Competition Seater Die From Masterblastersbullets.com - $229.90 + shipping 1700ct 45acp 230gr RN polymer bullets 2000ct 45acp brass, cleaned/deprimed, free shipping From EGW - $22 + shipping 45acp undersized die From Berry's - $97.49 Brass Cleaning Kit - Tumbler plus rotary sift TOTAL: $1560ish Things I've left out: Casefeeder $194.95 Are these looking like reasonable purchases? I'm still scrimping to come up with about half of the total, so any cost savers short of switching presses or dies would be appreciated. I plugged the component costs into the reloading spreadsheet and figured that I can make 100rds of 45acp for under $12, when Walmart is selling WWB for $24+. That comes out to over a year or more to recoup my investment shooting 200rds a week. Someone tell me I'm not crazy as I look for something else to sell to feed my shooting habit. That looks like a pretty nice setup, but there are a few ways I can see to save a few dollars and not compromise quality noticably. First, I'd step down from the electronic scale to a balance scale. You won't give up anything in accuracy, but you will spend a bit more time if you're weighing lots of charges (which really isn't all that necessary as you're not loading benchrest ammo. Pick a charge, get the measure throwing what you want and spot check a few here and there and you're fine. Figure you can save $75 if you get a $50 balance scale. I'd also suggest that a bullet puller isn't really necessary. They're handy sometimes, but for the cost of a cheap puller ($18 last time I saw them in the store) you could buy a bunch of cases, powder and bullets....how many saved cases, bullets and powder does it take to make the puller cost-effective? I don't know, but it's a bunch. Save another $18 here. The electronic calipers are nice, but I would get the standard dial calipers and save the $20+ dollars. They'll be more than accurate enough. Heck, I'm still using dial calipers and I started reloading when I was in my very early teens...never had a problem with them. Save another $20 here. The Redding competition seater die is great, but it's really more than necessary. I use them for match rifle ammo/sniper rifle practice ammo, and they make a huge difference there. If I were saving a couple of bucks I'd go with a normal seating die and upgrade later if you really, really think you need it. My match guns shoot better than I can hold them with ammo made without a competition seating die so I don't worry about it. Save $40 here. Is there a specific reason why you want the EGW U-die? I haven't kept close track of what people are doing with .45 match ammo these days but I haven't had a problem with bulged brass etc. With .40 I can understand it because there's so much once-fired brass that has gone through Glocks that won't work in a lot of guns without using the U-die, but I'm not sure it's totally necessary in .45. Save $22 here. Those changes would save you $175 give or take. That's enough for about 1500 more rounds of ammo you could load at your expected price...more practice is good What is supposed to be wrong with Dillon dies? I have a set of 45 ACP that I have used for years with out any problem with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R/T Performance Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Get the 650 and case feeder if that's what you want . I would go with the as it should be upgrade and the starter pack I see Brian has one listed now.Wich I think is a beam scale , dial caliper and primer flip tray. I would not bother with the egw undersized die not sure why you would need it for 45 acp. Or the the comp seater because there no need unless you change bullet types allot. I would just get the lee 4 die set about 26 bucks I think in Cabelas or midway. Research local shops for powder and primers(Save on those ridiculous hazmat) I really like the precision bullets. Don't worry about a tumbler right away buy clean brass. Email my Brass guy cps5700@yahoo.com He has great prices and the brass is normally cleaner than I can get it. Note he also Carry's Berry bullets and tumblers. Goodluck I recently upgrade a SDB to a 550 and am very pleased Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 What is supposed to be wrong with Dillon dies? I have a set of 45 ACP that I have used for years with out any problem with them. I don't think there is anything wrong with them. They are more money, and many here like to get the Lee FCD also...as an extra bit of insurance. If one is doing that, then getting the Lee 4-die set instead is a pretty good deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 What is supposed to be wrong with Dillon dies? I have a set of 45 ACP that I have used for years with out any problem with them. I don't think there is anything wrong with Dillon dies. I've got them in several calibers and they've always worked just fine. If I was trying to save a few bucks I might go with cheaper dies, but it's not a huge deal. See ya, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 Hello: The Dillon dies are fine for 45acp. It is the 40 where most need the Egw U die for Glocked brass. The Hornady die setup is good with there comp seater and is less expensive than the Redding. So for 45acp use the Dillon setup that comes with the press and use the Hornady and EGW U die setup for 40. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XD Niner Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 (edited) +1 on the Harbor Freight digital calipers (Midway sells the same thing for more $), the Hornady One Shot and the Midway Vibra Primer (major time saver!) Also, if you want a very good but inexpensive digital scale try this Digital DuraScale. It works great and at $59 is about the same cost as a beam scale. I've had mine for six months without a single problem (even when I dropped it! ) I have a Lee 3-die set for .45acp that I'll make you a good deal on. I changed to the Dillon dies because the rounded entry edges work much better in my 650. YMMV. However, I do use their FCD die which I really like. Edited February 15, 2007 by XD Niner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMcCracken Posted February 15, 2007 Author Share Posted February 15, 2007 (edited) UPDATED and in progress: From Brian- $912.09 - free shipping Dillon XL 650 in 45acp - $489.95 Casefeeder - $194.95 "As it should be" upgrade - $106.49 Spare parts kit - $20.95 4 pack large primer pickup tubes $17.95 x 2 Balance-beam Scale $49.95 Video - $5.95 One in. Bench Wrench and 5 1" lock rings - $7.95 From MidwayUSA - $130.75 + $9.66 shipping Frankford Arsenal Impact Bullet puller - $13.79 Frankford Arsenal Vibra-prime primer tube filler - $32.99 Hornady One Shot Case Lube 5.5oz Aerosol - $6.99 Chrony F1 Chronograph - $79.99 I'll try to borrow one Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die - $13.99 Redding Competition Seater Die - $62.99 From Masterblastersbullets.com - $229.90 - shipping included 1700ct 45acp 230gr RN polymer bullets - $119.95 2000ct 45acp brass, cleaned/deprimed - $109.95 From EGW - $22 + shipping 45acp undersized die $22.00 From Berry's - $97.49 - shipping included Brass Cleaning Kit - Tumbler plus rotary sift - $97.49 Waiting a few months to get this. From Powder Valley - $Primers??? which to buy? Powder??? From Gamaliel - $224.82 Clays 8lb - $99.95 Fed #150 Larg Pistol Primers - $94.75 From Harbor Freight - $15.99 +7.99 shipping 6" Digital Calipers - $15.99 TOTAL: $1560ish Edited February 15, 2007 by Erucolindon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abs Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 I think we need to ALL be honest with ourselves, we do this not for the $ savings but the love of the game! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R/T Performance Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 To get started go to gander mountain and get a # of Tite group from hogdons and a couple hunderd winchester primers. Tite group 18/# Primers 2.59/100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rather-B-Huntin Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 GET THE CASEFEED!!! You'll be very sorry if you dont! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 For years I loaded with just one primer tube. Not the funnest thing ever, but not the end of the world either, and it gives you a little break every hundred rounds, and saves $20+ I'm also not sure you need the undersize die for .45 ACP.. It's the .40's and 38 Supers that really gain from that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMcCracken Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 (edited) Since it won't let me update my above posts, I'll just have to repost with updates! UPDATED and in progress: From Brian- $606.19 - free shipping Dillon XL 650 in 45acp - $489.95 Dillon RL 550B in 45acp - $379.95 Casefeeder - $194.95 "As it should be" upgrade - $129.49 Spare parts kit - $14.95 4 pack large primer pickup tubes $17.95 Balance-beam Scale $49.95 Video - $5.95 One in. Bench Wrench and 5 1" lock rings - $7.95 From MidwayUSA - $130.75 + $9.66 shipping Frankford Arsenal Impact Bullet puller - $13.79 Frankford Arsenal Vibra-prime primer tube filler - $32.99 Hornady One Shot Case Lube 5.5oz Aerosol - $6.99 Chrony F1 Chronograph - $79.99 I'll try to borrow one Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die - $13.99 Redding Competition Seater Die - $62.99 From Masterblastersbullets.com - $229.90 - shipping included 1700ct 45acp 230gr RN polymer bullets - $119.95 2000ct 45acp brass, cleaned/deprimed - $109.95 From EGW - $22 + shipping 45acp undersized die $22.00 From Berry's - $97.49 - shipping included Brass Cleaning Kit - Tumbler plus rotary sift - $97.49 Waiting a few months to get this. From Powder Valley - $Primers??? which to buy? Powder??? From Gamaliel - $224.82 Clays 8lb - $99.95 Fed #150 Larg Pistol Primers - $94.75 From Harbor Freight - $15.99 +7.99 shipping 6" Digital Calipers - $15.99 TOTAL: $1254ish Edited February 18, 2007 by Erucolindon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhunter Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Dude YOU NEED the CASEFEEDER!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMcCracken Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 (edited) DudeYOU NEED the CASEFEEDER!!!!!!!!!!!! So the concensus is to get the 550 with a casefeeder then? If I get the casefeeder, I might as well get the 650. Bah, I can't decide. I just need more money. Edited February 18, 2007 by Erucolindon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhunter Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 650 & Casefeeder. do it right the first time, and it will be less expensive in the long run!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XD Niner Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 +1 on the XL650 and case feeder. If you are going to get the case feeder, you defintitely want the 650. For $70 more over the 550 similarly equiped, it is a no brainer. The ability to add the Powder Check is worth every penny all by itself IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R/T Performance Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Only loading 45acp? I thought I was going to only load 40 but now I load 40 45 and 223. So off went the SDB and Replaced with a 550 and I really like it. No strong mount or roller handle but my bench was built at waste level and mounted to the wall.Very firm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMcCracken Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Only loading 45acp?I thought I was going to only load 40 but now I load 40 45 and 223. So off went the SDB and Replaced with a 550 and I really like it. No strong mount or roller handle but my bench was built at waste level and mounted to the wall.Very firm No, just 45 for now. I'll end up loading .45, .40, 9mm, .380, .223, .308. 30-06. I just need to cough up the dow and get the 650 and casefeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R/T Performance Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 If It where me I think I would go 550. Personally the powder check would be nice and so would a case feeder but it will take that much more time to convert. I have never seen a 650 in person but it seems the case feeder would be a pain in the arse when switching to rifle. The extra funds for the little time saved just not high on my list. I planned to got form the SDB to the 650 and agonized over the decision. But if you go slow till you build a rhythm the 550 will do you just fine. This is an extra hassle but look at the extra dollars powder checks are 80 bucks? ea Conversion plates 80 vs 40? tool heads 15 vs 20? I have my rifle tool heads separated one to re size deprime(Then I swage pockets and trim) and one to powder ,seat and crimp. I am allot like you and was pissed I went SDB instead of spending a little extra right off. I like to do things right the first time instead twice. But all and all I made 4,000 rounds on my SDB in a year and lost about 50 dollars total on it. I hope I am helping not hurting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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