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Triggerkit 2# Trigger


021411

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I bought my Triggerkit a while back and have been trying hard to break it in. I think I have over 600+ rounds on the kit now with an ungodly amount of dry fires. The last time I measured the trigger it broke in the 3# range.

For those that have the kit, what is your trigger breaking at? I'm not dissing the kit at all. It's way lighter than stock but would like for it to actually be in the 2# range.

Edited by 21411
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Mine also broke in the 3 lb range until I installed a 3.5 Lone Wolf disconnector. Didn't cost much but dropped the trigger pull to a consistent 2.5 lb.

It's funny because I did the same thing. I tried the LWD all this week and it seemed to bring it down just a tad. I didn't measure it but it could be felt. I just don't like the way the LWD feels when you hand rack the slide. It clicks into place and is not smooth. I just detailed cleaned the gun and put the Scherer 3.5 connector back in. Man does it feel heavier now. What could be up?

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Mine is also a RS 2# trigger ..... but it is NOT exactly 2#. Mine is 2 lbs. 3/4 oz. If it's close (within 1/2 lbs + / -) to 3# I would be happy. Too light of a tigger will mean problems with factory ammo. Some primers are harder than others.

Stop wasting so much time in search of the perfect trigger, and focus on the perfect "sight picture"! ;)

Edited by CHRIS KEEN
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I never really had any problems with light primer strikes with the kit as-is in my Glock. I know it's not exactly going to be 2# on the nose but anywhere close is good. B) It's like paying for a competition grade 1.5# trigger job on 1911 and getting a 2.75# trigger. That's how I see it.

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It aint at all like a competition grade 1911 trigger, in any respect. A 1.5 lb trigger would cost at least twice as much. Glock also has way too much tolerance in it to be as presice as a 1911.

Clean it up, put a light coat of Gun Butter on all the parts, try again. If there is still a problem, call Ralph. He is a very approachable guy and will gladly do whatever is nessecary to make the situation right.

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It aint at all like a competition grade 1911 trigger, in any respect. A 1.5 lb trigger would cost at least twice as much. Glock also has way too much tolerance in it to be as presice as a 1911.

Clean it up, put a light coat of Gun Butter on all the parts, try again. If there is still a problem, call Ralph. He is a very approachable guy and will gladly do whatever is nessecary to make the situation right.

I'm just saying... What I mean is "I paid for it.." Everyone knows they are two completely different animals.

Did what you recommended already. The gun was spotless when it was reassembled. I also used a light coat of Gun Butter. No change. I'll contact Ralph..

Edited by 21411
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Try to keep in mind, you get what you pay for.

I'm in no way dissing Ralph's trigger. In fact thats what I use now for Production and I shoot great with it. Yeah Ralph! :lol:

But it's not a Charlie Vanek trigger either. Charlie includes a slightly modified firing pin, and he does some other fine tunning.

$65 versus $235

You decide.

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If it doesnt get figured out, or just isnt to your liking, Ralph will refund your money, or I will buy it and buy you a beer just for trying it. Thats the refund policy as it has always been, and always will be.

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If it doesnt get figured out, or just isnt to your liking, Ralph will refund your money, or I will buy it and buy you a beer just for trying it. Thats the refund policy as it has always been, and always will be.

That's good to know and thanks for the beer offer. ;) I really like it but wish it was a bit lighter in weight. I sent Ralph an email through the online store. I'll keep everyone updated.

Ralph has worked with me in the past so I know he's a stand up guy. B)

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I have 2 Triggerkits. One each in a 34 and 35, for Production and Limited respectively. The triggers are great. My only complaint was that there isn't enough spring force to totally return the trigger forward, and the safety thingy wouldn't pop out of the frame, leaving the gun with the safety disengaged. Although this probably isn't a safety problem in a match, it made me uncomfortable. I replaced the lw firing pin spring with the factory spring and fixed the problem, though the triggers are now breaking at 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 lb.

BTW, the triggers feel completely different between the two guns. Just differences in factory tolerances I suspect. Oh, and I'm using Ghost Rocket connectors, too.

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Mine is also a RS 2# trigger ..... but it is NOT exactly 2#. Mine is 2 lbs. 3/4 oz. If it's close (within 1/2 lbs + / -) to 3# I would be happy. Too light of a tigger will mean problems with factory ammo. Some primers are harder than others.

Stop wasting so much time in search of the perfect trigger, and focus on the perfect "sight picture"! ;)

My RS trigger breaks at 2# measured at the very tip of the trigger, close to 3# at the middle of the trigger.

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Try to keep in mind, you get what you pay for.

I'm in no way dissing Ralph's trigger. In fact thats what I use now for Production and I shoot great with it. Yeah Ralph! :lol:

But it's not a Charlie Vanek trigger either. Charlie includes a slightly modified firing pin, and he does some other fine tunning.

$65 versus $235

You decide.

Keen,

It bears stating that the older style Vanek trigger jobs (y'know, with the added pin in the trigger itself) are not legal for Production. I believe that Charlie has a new design that does not have the visible trigger modification.

I too have a Ralph kit, and find that the trigger can get crunchy if I don't clean the internals every 600 rounds or so.

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As DD says, the striker spring is the "heart" of the trigger job determining the pull weight. Lightening it to the max requires removing mass from the striker to get most striking energy. Then, the "trigger spring" (which actually helps pull the trigger) is increased as much as possible while still having good trigger return. The striker spring pulls the trigger forward, so reducing it means you get less reset force.

Other factors:

1) How far back the striker is pulled before release, which can be adjusted by shaping the trigger bar. Less distance = less pull weight, but may not fully depress the FP blocking safety plunger if you get too short.

The "ultimate" trigger job for light weight would optimize all these things and get just enough to get good ignition. I don't doubt 2# is doable.

Edited by bountyhunter
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I have two of Ralph's triggers in G22's.

While neither made exactly 2# on my RCBS trigger scale they both run about 2 1/2 #. I have found it is very difficult to get accurate readings on Glock triggers. They could well be 2# triggers on a different scale.

I am very happy with these triggers, and extremely happy with Ralph's service.

A couple of weeks ago I broke a trigger return spring in my main gun. I went to my backup gun and contacted Ralph about what kind of spring I needed to buy to replace the broken one.

At the first match using my backup gun I got a light strike on a WSP primer. I sent Ralph another note describing this problem.

Ralph sent me the replacement springs to fix both guns and said no charge.

I did not expect to the springs free so I sent Ralph a check( guessing what the value of the springs was).

Today Ralph e-mailed me saying again no charge and that he would tear up my check when it arrives.

This is the kind of guy that I will do business with again and again.

If you are really not happy with the kit you have I know Ralph will make it right.

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jobob:

My only complaint was that there isn't enough spring force to totally return the trigger forward, and the safety thingy wouldn't pop out of the frame, leaving the gun with the safety disengaged. Although this probably isn't a safety problem in a match, it made me uncomfortable.

I am glad to see that I am not the only one that has seen this. I was thinking of trying the stock 5# connector to see if it would help. Now, I am gonna try the original FP spring

first.

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jobob:
My only complaint was that there isn't enough spring force to totally return the trigger forward, and the safety thingy wouldn't pop out of the frame, leaving the gun with the safety disengaged. Although this probably isn't a safety problem in a match, it made me uncomfortable.

I am glad to see that I am not the only one that has seen this. I was thinking of trying the stock 5# connector to see if it would help. Now, I am gonna try the original FP spring

first.

Same problem here with a G20. 5lb connector didn't help. I swapped out the trigger spring for the stock one. The reset was better, but the pull was heavier. Tried calling, and could never get someone. Sent an email, and got a response that it was a competition trigger and would be ok on LAMR. I replied asking for any advice besides changing out the spring(shaving the safety tab?). Never got another response. Based on the response and no followup, I bought a Vanek drop in for my G35. Talked to Charlie on the phone for quite a while. Great guy, great product. Makes me want to try his full blown custom trigger job. Will definitely get more business from me.

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