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The Downsides To Tri-top Slides?


mpolans

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I recently became aware that at least one big name gunsmith recommends against tri-topping slides as a method of lightening them. While I haven't gotten a response as to why yet, can anyone else think of any downsides to doing this?

Does it weaken the slide significantly more than other methods?

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If done aggressively, you can knock off 2 ounces + if its done properly its also less likely to crack than drilled holes or slots, I've been told.

Plus, you don't have to worry about dust and grit getting inside the action if its windy like you do with holes. <_<

Just don't take to much off the top or you'll weaken the locking lugs area.

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While I haven't gotten a response as to why yet, can anyone else think of any downsides to doing this?
Just don't take to much off the top or you'll weaken the locking lugs area.

That's likely the primary reason he recommends against it.

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If STI/SVI are doing it on commercial firearms, whatever amount it is, it's safe. If not, it's under warranty. As for how much, call them.

My Open gun weighs 39 oz. without one (real) hole in the slide and everything is steel, but then that's why Rusty is the man!

SPC Richard A. White, Senior Medic

249th MP Detachment (EACF)

Camp Humphreys, ROK

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There's a difference between buying a tri-tipped slide and taking a rond top slide and milling it to turn it into a tri-top. The factory starts with bar stock and mills it into either a tri-top or a round top. When I built my open gun I was told to either buy a tri-topped slide or stick with a standard. Don't try to turn one into the other. I have a factory tri-top on my limited gun and there is a lot of meat on the top. Looking at the standard slide there isn't enough metal to do the job. There are plenty of other places to remove the metal instead of over top of the locking lugs. I'm sure that guys are doing it, but after looking at the two slides I agreed with the smith.

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i can give you a down side, albeit rare. in 20+ years of shooting and probably 16 years of being an RO/CRO, i saw something last weekend i'd never seen before. guy was shooting a glock, so no 3 sided slide, BUT flat on top. the odds are slim, but this guy was engaging targets and a case landed on top of his slide and stayed there. it was in the middle of a long shot so the splits were not quick. i'm running the clock so i'm watching the gun. he calmly flicks the glock and continues. interesting-would never have guessed that could have happened...

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a sti bare slide. I want to lighten it up. I still have not made any sight cuts yet, I'm probably going with a bo-mar rear and dawson front. Do I have to make sight cuts first, before I make any other cuts? I know want to flatten the top. How deep do I cut the flat top? does any body know which cutters I will need for rear bo-mar and also front for a dawson front sight?

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i can give you a down side, albeit rare. in 20+ years of shooting and probably 16 years of being an RO/CRO, i saw something last weekend i'd never seen before. guy was shooting a glock, so no 3 sided slide, BUT flat on top. the odds are slim, but this guy was engaging targets and a case landed on top of his slide and stayed there. it was in the middle of a long shot so the splits were not quick. i'm running the clock so i'm watching the gun. he calmly flicks the glock and continues. interesting-would never have guessed that could have happened...

I have seen this happen with a glock, just seen it in last months local match. Its actaully pretty funny to watch. :lol::lol:

Flyin40

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My open gun has a standard Springfield Armory slide that's been flat-topped by Dave Williams at the custom shop to a flat that's .500" wide. Nothing off the corners or the sides, a fairly deep cut where a rear sight can no longer go. It weighs 10.5oz:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...t=0#entry339495

If I get time I'll take an up-to-date photo & add it on to show the flat with better detail. It's the exact same weight as my old Caspian Hicap's slide which was drilled thru in many places including 3 deep channels in front & swiss cheese around the extractor in back. I prefer the Springfield's way of getting to 10.5oz a lot more.

It's 10 years old, looking down the barrel I'd guess it has 80K to 100K shot thru it. Nowlin barrel still groups 1" at 25 yards [with very consistent ammo anyway] and I don't see any signs of problems around the locking lugs. ALTHOUGH, it is thin up there & it's not a job I'd give to a local HackFuGunWorks to reproduce.

Dave at Springfield Custom is GOOD.

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The item to consider mostly is proper heat treatment of the slide. Most concerns arise out of slides that have cracked due to improper heat treatment, because of "spot brittleness" when that area cooled faster than the rest of the slide. Those cracks can and will develop in a slide whether it has been "thinned out" or not, if these "brittle spots" are present. It is very hard to know ahead of time which slides may or may not have these spots, and few manufacturers are completely inmune to this malady whether using bar-stock, forged or cast materials.

I have carried for years a stainless steel slide (originally gov. lenght cut down to Cmmdr length) made by Essex, in a Colt frame (gov. size). It has a "super-bull" diameter barell that measures .850" instead of the usual .700". This required boring/reaming the inside of the slide to accomodate the thick barrel. The slide was then "tri-sided", and the sides trimmed some too. The narrowest/thinnest part on the slide's side measures at around .040". The top sides of the slide were further given two large V cuts to allow a V-10 porting of the barrel. There was not enough room for a dovetail front sight, so a tenon style was soldered in place. Rear sight is an adjustable lo-cut Novak. Caliber is of course .45 ACP. I have fired this gun with over twenty thousands rounds so far without a hiccup or sign of cracking anywhere. I even use it sometimes in IPSC matches (for practical use experience) and the gun handles great. Only major PF loads are used. I guess the materials and heat treatment were done right! :D:wub:;)

Edited by Radical Precision Designs
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