Wolff Reduced Power Firing Pin Spring Problem

[pstew]

I added the Wolff reduced power firing pin spring to my g34, and I'm getting light primer hits. (about 1 in 10 on my reloads) With the standard spring, I have never had a light hit. I've read many discussions about lightening the the trigger, and use of this spring is pretty standard, but I've never heard about people getting this many light hits. I took it back apart and checked the firing pin channel for spooch, and it's clean.

So I'm going to put the standard spring back in until I figure this out, and try the reduced power spring with some factory ammo.

What are your experiences or thoughts?

[ryucasta]

Are you lubricating the area where the trigger bar makes contact with the connector?

[George]

Reduced power striker springs will almost always cause light hits with hard primers (WW & CCI).

The solution is to leave the stock spring in, or use reloaded ammo with softer primers (Federal SP100's)

[ryucasta]

George,

As a general rule what you have stated is correct. Having said that though I currently have VanekCustom 1.5 pound triggers with reduced power springs on my 9x19 Major Open Glock's that will fire Small Rifle Primers without any problems.

[George]

I am aware of the Vanek trigger and there is no general rule on truth! The Vanek trigger system is a horse of a different color and not germaine to pstew's problem. The Vanek trigger system is an option he can buy, but not having one is not what his problem is all about. The Wolff reduced power striker spring is what is causing his issue.

Having said that, there is one more issue that may be part of the problem. If the light strike issue is with your reloads only and factory ammo runs fine, then take a look at your reloads to see if the primers are being fully seated to the bottom of the primer cup. The most common cause of ingition failure with reloaded ammo is primers that aren't fully seated moving under the striker rather than staying in place and actually getting hit hard enough to ignite.

[ryucasta]

George,

You are right it could be any of a number of things like:

High seated primers (This would be a problem also for a factory trigger)

Lack of Lubrication of the Trigger Bar/Connector

Hard Primers I.E Rifle vs. Pistol

Weak Striker Spring

BTW, before I ever bought a single trigger system from DMW, CGR, NHO, VanekCustom or TriggerKit.com I tried the Wolff spring solution (used their magazine springs in my Para’s) and it gave me light hit problems with CCI pistol primers.

Hopefully the original poster of this thread will be able to provide more details on the problem he's experiencing like type of primer he is using and pictures taken from various angles of the cartridges that had the light hits.

Edited March 5, 2006 by ryucasta

[George]

BTW, I never lube Glocks and run all of mine bone dry. I feel there is absolutely no way a lack of lube on the the trigger bar will be the cause of light primer strikes.

It has to be either the lighter striker spring alone or high primers coupled with the lighter striker spring.

[Sniper1Moore]

I use wolff reduced striker spring and have a home made trigger job that's 2.5 lbs.I reload using winchester standard small pistol primers and have never had a problem except for a small batch of primers (1000) that wouldn't go off even if you hit them with a hammer.That wasn't the whole 1000 maybe 100 but maybe that could be your problem.Try a different LOT # and see if the problem persists.Wish you luck,Ken

[the duck of death]

Make sure the primers are seated. If you still have problems lighten the striker. To have a good pull without moving the trigger you must run the striker spring as light as possible.

[ryucasta]

Thats great that you run your Glock bone dry. Experience has taught me not to run them dry especially in the area where the Trigger Bar makes contact with the Connector but then again what do I know about Glock's.

Here's an excerpt from Ptooma Productions The Complete Glock Reference Guide where they show one of the 5 areas where Glock's should be lightly lubed.

Lube.pdf

[TBF]

pstew,

Some very good advice above.

One more thing to check is the adjustment of the overtravel screw ( If you have one installed ) Too little overtravel combined with a rounded safety plunger just recently caused me some light ( almost not at all ) strikes. Never mind about this if all is stock except the spring.

Travis F.

[cmzneb]

My experience with Wolf striker springs was the same. Light strikes time after time. For the minimal difference it makes, it is not worth sacrificing reliability in my opinion.

[boo radley]

My experience with Wolf striker springs was the same. Light strikes time after time. For the minimal difference it makes, it is not worth sacrificing reliability in my opinion.

+2? +3?

I tried a test last week, and got one to run reliably, by cutting 2-3 coils (hard to tell, exactly) off the end, in effect strengthening it.

But now it doesn't feel noticeably different from the stock spring, so....why bother?

[George]

IMHO, the five areas a Glock need to be lubed are all about 3 feet from the gun ;-)

I seriously disagree with lubing Glocks. I also don't clean SS pistol barrels either (only if you are shooting jacketed). My results are long running and consistent, the guns run and run and run and run... They also clean up with just a wipedown from a dry rag.

[bountyhunter]

George,

You are right it could be any of a number of things like:

High seated primers (This would be a problem also for a factory trigger)

Lack of Lubrication of the Trigger Bar/Connector

Hard Primers I.E Rifle vs. Pistol

Weak Striker Spring

Can also be that the firing pin blocking safety is dragging on the striker a bit. Check the striker nose for any signs of dinging. I believe you will see a copper color area anywhere the hard chrome has been dinged off (that's what mine looked like).

If the trigger is releasing the striker a shade too far forward, you can have this problem.

BTW, I never lube Glocks and run all of mine bone dry. I feel there is absolutely no way a lack of lube on the the trigger bar will be the cause of light primer strikes.

It has to be either the lighter striker spring alone or high primers coupled with the lighter striker spring.

Or interference with the motion of the striker in the channel.

[Joe D]

If you want to make the problem go away 100% of the time you have two choices. Lighten your stock striker or purchase one of the Lightening Strike lwt. STEEL strikers. Stay away from their titanium model. I have had too many tips break off with those.

[bountyhunter]

If you want to make the problem go away 100% of the time you have two choices. Lighten your stock striker or purchase one of the Lightening Strike lwt. STEEL strikers. Stay away from their titanium model. I have had too many tips break off with those.

Web site address on that?

[chp5]

What Joe D said.

I just use the stock spring. Just fire and dry fire the piss out of it and also leave the striker "engaged" in storage. That will loosen it up over time.

[Joe D]

www.brownells.com

[Joneser5000]

do the Ti strikers break easily? I was contemplating getting one.

[the duck of death]

I wouldn't use one. I reduced the mass of the OEM striker.