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Smithfield (AKA Springfield) Armory Prodigy DS modifications for competitive shooting


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4 hours ago, XDman said:

So the Prodigy is really a limited division only gun?

What do you all think about the Briley package upgrades?

I think it's pricey and a base Staccato P is close to what you'll spend once to you send it to briley 

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1 hour ago, WindsurferKaren said:

What brand of wide ambi safety did you get? 

I think most will agree, but IMO you may want to stick with the stock ambi safety until your ready to upgrade your entire ignition system!

 

If you purchase a shielded ambi to use with your existing parts, the safety will have to be fit to your existing sear/hammer configuration.  Then if you later purchase an upgraded ignition system (highly recommended), you'll have to spend additional money on another safety or at least have yours welded and refit to the new components.

 

There is the possibly of having a new ignition system fit that doesn't require a new thumb safety; however it will take a very experienced 1911/2011 gunsmith that can measure and recut a sear to match existing specs.

 

Good luck!  The Prodigy is an excellent platform to get started with!  :)

 

PS:  Not sure your on FB; but if so, there's some excellent posts regarding setting up the Prodigy for LO!  Be sure and take notice of the posts by Jeffrey Abernathy.........  ;)

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/733497351411414/search/?q=Prodigy

 

 

 

 

Edited by HOGRIDER
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44 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:

 

If you purchase a shielded ambi to use with your existing parts, the safety will have to be fit to your existing sear/hammer configuration.  Then if you later purchase an upgraded ignition system (highly recommended), you'll have to spend additional money on another safety or at least have yours welded and refit to the new components


Oh wow. Okay, was not aware of that. Wasn’t planning to do safety/ignition stuff just yet — haven’t even had a chance to take my Prodigy to the range — but that’s good to know, and I haven’t it seen mentioned elsewhere. (Been doing a lot of reading, and aware that many/most parts require some degree of fitting, though.)

 

Any other parts with similar gotchas? I’ve seen that the trigger bow is a bit different from others, so some won’t work with the stock grip (and vice-versa with other grips?), don’t know about the sear/hammer/disco, but usually see those come in sets…

 

Oh, and iirc, something about the mainspring, mentioned in another thread that I’m blanking on…

Edited by arcsign
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13 minutes ago, arcsign said:


Oh wow. Okay, was not aware of that. Wasn’t planning to do safety/ignition stuff just yet — haven’t even had a chance to take my Prodigy to the range — but that’s good to know, and I haven’t it seen mentioned elsewhere. (Been doing a lot of reading, and aware that many/most parts require some degree of fitting, though.)

 

Any other parts with similar gotchas? I’ve seen that the trigger bow is a bit different from others, so some won’t work with the stock grip (and vice-versa with other grips?), don’t know about the sear/hammer/disco, but usually see those come in sets…

 

Oh, and iirc, something about the mainspring, mentioned in another thread that I’m blanking on…

 

Dude, see if it works first. Mine has worked fine for damn near 3,000 rounds and I had a trigger job done on the factory components. People try to overthink this stuff. If it needs components replace place all that s***, it doesn't work let Springfield fix it. Then decide if it needs components

 

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5 minutes ago, arcsign said:


Oh wow. Okay, was not aware of that. Wasn’t planning to do safety/ignition stuff just yet — haven’t even had a chance to take my Prodigy to the range — but that’s good to know, and I haven’t it seen mentioned elsewhere. (Been doing a lot of reading, and aware that many/most parts require some degree of fitting, though.)

 

Any other parts with similar gotchas? I’ve seen that the trigger bow is a bit different from others, so some won’t work with the stock grip (and vice-versa with other grips?), don’t know about the sear/hammer/disco, but usually see those come in sets…

 

Oh, and iirc, something about the mainspring, mentioned in another thread that I’m blanking on…

@arcsign

Here's an excellent example of a "tuned" fire control group that includes PREMIUM parts and the excellent Red Dirt trigger specifically designed for the Prodigy stock grip:

 

https://deeprivercustoms.com/product/trigger-kit/

 

https://reddirt-usa.com/st-trigger/prodigy-grip/

 

It's very important, IMO, to have an aftermarket trigger that offers a trigger bow that's not too long; and simplified adjustments that definitely benefit the beginner or less experienced shooter!

 

If your using the Prodigy for competition, most 2011 type guns will use the 17# mainspring; especially with updated ignition parts!

 

And YES, it's safe to assume that all individual 1911/2011 parts will need fitting and/or adjusting to produce a SAFE and trouble free pistol!

 

HTHs  :)

 

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1 hour ago, RJH said:

 

Dude, see if it works first. Mine has worked fine for damn near 3,000 rounds and I had a trigger job done on the factory components. People try to overthink this stuff. If it needs components replace place all that s***, it doesn't work let Springfield fix it. Then decide if it needs components

 


Yeah, that’s what I was saying in the first line… only things I’m doing any time soon are an extended mag release (cause I’m just barely short of being able to drop mag without adjusting grip), and a magwell (because I can). And those won’t be until after I get a couple hundred rounds through it. If there’s a problem it’ll go back to factory… but it appears to be the revised slide version, so I’m expecting it’ll be fine.

 

Eventually it will likely see a bunch of changes, but that’s more to do with my inability to leave well enough alone than anything else.

 

1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said:

@arcsign

Here's an excellent example of a "tuned" fire control group that includes PREMIUM parts and the excellent Red Dirt trigger specifically designed for the Prodigy stock grip:

 

https://deeprivercustoms.com/product/trigger-kit/

 

https://reddirt-usa.com/st-trigger/prodigy-grip/

 

It's very important, IMO, to have an aftermarket trigger that offers a trigger bow that's not too long; and simplified adjustments that definitely benefit the beginner or less experienced shooter!

 

If your using the Prodigy for competition, most 2011 type guns will use the 17# mainspring; especially with updated ignition parts!

 

And YES, it's safe to assume that all individual 1911/2011 parts will need fitting and/or adjusting to produce a SAFE and trouble free pistol!

 

HTHs  :)

 


Alright, nice, I was looking at those a couple of days (weeks?) ago. Looks good except the trigger shoe and hammer color (easy enough to address I think). Will keep them/the set in mind for later on.

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19 hours ago, sandflea316 said:

I think it's pricey and a base Staccato P is close to what you'll spend once to you send it to briley 

 

IMO, buying a Staccato P is silly anytime, but insane compared to a completely tricked out Briley Prodigy.

 

If I didn't build my own guns, I'd just buy the entire gun from Briley.

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I have never owned or shot a Staccato. I have handled a few and they seem fine. I've owned several STI's. And I still do. Staccato makes me feel dirty. Even watching MV(🥰) shot show sales pitch videos doesn't make me want one. I'm currently dabbling in LO with a prodigy 

Edited by Chillywig
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I have to admit I’m a little confused on the Briley Prodigy thing… the name is familiar, but unclear what it offers for 1780ish on top of the base price. 

questionable stuff:

The beavertail swap seems… random.
Safety replaced, but not with a shielded one, lateral move maybe, also the cheaper package removes the ambi part…

Vortex Defender + plate seems like a strange choice.

Replace stock green fiber with new green fiber?

 

neutral impact:

steel mainspring housing

guide rod/keyed plug (req’d due to barrel swap)

 

performance impact, maybe:

EGW light hammer ignition kit… okay, fine popular enough

match barrel

spherical bushing

 

Drop the cost of the defender and plate 250 and 90ish respectively… assume we want to keep it ambi, that version is 1784.94

 

1444.94 …

 

EGW kit is 135, mainspring housing is 45,  magwell 50, rounding a bit…

 

1215

 

For the barrel, bushing, guide rod, and labor. Technically the safety, front sight, and beavertail are in there too. Also these prices are public, not dealer or ffl. (Not that the breakdown seems to matter, since it’s sold as a package.)

 

Same thing, I think, would apply to this as to the Staccato… namely… what about this makes it 1784 dollars better than the stock Prodigy? Is it twice as accurate? Cycles 2x as fast? Is half as likely to malfunction?

 

What am I missing here?

 

(For the record, I just bought a Prodigy after considering a bunch of other stuff, most of which I dismissed for the same reason: I’m going to go try my first match here soon, and I couldn’t for the life of me see how style/design, fitment, perfect smoothness and finish, etc were going to impact performance. )

 

 

 

 

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I too have a prodigy and with all the stuff i did to it i could of easily bought a Staccato P.  

 

I agree that the  Briley premium package seems over price.  The base package isn't worth it but than again i can install and and tune the ignition kit myself. 

350 for the base package vs me buying an SVI ignition kit and install myself.

 

My prodigy has a LSI steel grip, svi ignition kit, red dirt trigger, atlas ambi shielded safety, atlas tool less guide rod, nitro fin, holosun 507comp 

 

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Not that far along yet here, just the 507comp and plate; haven’t had a chance to shoot it yet. Once I do and confirm working/all set, I’ve got a drilled/tapped mag release and a button for it.. and that’s probably it for the time being. Want to get a magwell, but more for ergos and aesthetics than anything else.

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9 hours ago, arcsign said:

I have to admit I’m a little confused on the Briley Prodigy thing… the name is familiar, but unclear what it offers for 1780ish on top of the base price. 

questionable stuff:

The beavertail swap seems… random.
Safety replaced, but not with a shielded one, lateral move maybe, also the cheaper package removes the ambi part…

Vortex Defender + plate seems like a strange choice.

Replace stock green fiber with new green fiber?

 

neutral impact:

steel mainspring housing

guide rod/keyed plug (req’d due to barrel swap)

 

performance impact, maybe:

EGW light hammer ignition kit… okay, fine popular enough

match barrel

spherical bushing

 

Drop the cost of the defender and plate 250 and 90ish respectively… assume we want to keep it ambi, that version is 1784.94

 

1444.94 …

 

EGW kit is 135, mainspring housing is 45,  magwell 50, rounding a bit…

 

1215

 

For the barrel, bushing, guide rod, and labor. Technically the safety, front sight, and beavertail are in there too. Also these prices are public, not dealer or ffl. (Not that the breakdown seems to matter, since it’s sold as a package.)

 

Same thing, I think, would apply to this as to the Staccato… namely… what about this makes it 1784 dollars better than the stock Prodigy? Is it twice as accurate? Cycles 2x as fast? Is half as likely to malfunction?

 

What am I missing here?

 

(For the record, I just bought a Prodigy after considering a bunch of other stuff, most of which I dismissed for the same reason: I’m going to go try my first match here soon, and I couldn’t for the life of me see how style/design, fitment, perfect smoothness and finish, etc were going to impact performance. )

 

 

 

 

 

Agreed. Also wondering why I would want to replace a bull barrel with a bushing barrel...

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1 hour ago, RJH said:

 

Agreed. Also wondering why I would want to replace a bull barrel with a bushing barrel...

 

Lower reciprocating mass.  Ability to swap out the spherical bushing if wear occurs.  That being said, I wouldn't do it. SA puts good barrels in their guns.

 

I don't think the Briley packages are overpriced, considering what you get and the fitting involved.  Especially compared to what you can get for a similar price.  All the MIM parts are rep[laced and you know it will be done correctly.  You essentially end up with a hand fit custom pistol for less than a Staccato or MPA.  With either of those you roll the dice.

 

That being said, I think the best option is to buy the base model directly from Briley.  It is a super deal.  $1560 for a gone over pistol with an EGW ignition kit installed.  That's $1199 for the pistol and $360 for the upgrades and tuning.   Buy an optic plate and mount the dot of your choice.  You are done.  Yes, there are MIM parts inside.  If you know SA, you know they are good ones.  I'd shoot it as it came from Briley for 20k~30k rounds before I had to replace any of the MIM internals.  Really, the only one you have to worry about is the thumb safety.

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I'm getting a green dot Holosun Vulcan optic. It's the first one I've ever had, and it was the one recommended by my peers for beginners to start with, coming from iron sights, especially with astigmatism and bad eyesite in general.

 

Regarding the optics and shooting in USPSA and NRA Action pistol events, what yardage should the optic be set at? It seems like most of the USPSA stages are set at 10-15 yards, but there are some that are farther 25+. Do I want to set it for the furthest distance I most likely be shooting at? How would I adjust my aim to accommodate the different distances?

 

Should I use my distance glasses for shooting the with the optic? (These are the ones I have for shooting clays). Or do I use my progressive glasses?

 

 

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41 minutes ago, WindsurferKaren said:

what yardage should the optic be set at?

 

I sight all my action pistols in at 25 yards.  I think it the best compromise.  You should wear your distance lenses.  You want to see the ground you are covering and your target clearly.  With as dot, you look at the target and let the dot superimpose on it.

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4 hours ago, zzt said:

 

Lower reciprocating mass.  Ability to swap out the spherical bushing if wear occurs.  That being said, I wouldn't do it. SA puts good barrels in their guns.

 

 

Technically you're adding mass to the slide by adding the bushing.  And a good 'gunsmith' fit barrel will be an improvement accuracy wise, not that Springfield are horrible with it and as you said they build very good barrels, but they are still 'mass market' fit and most of them likely have just the slightest amount of 'slop' in their lockup.  Springfield really screwed themselves when they released it, they had so many teething problems with early guns...the same early guns they sent to every influencer on the planet as part of their 'social media blitz'....  

Don't get me wrong, the Prodigy is a great starting platform, especially if you enjoy the 'build' part of it, although at the end of the day you still end up with so-so slide/frame fit (which isn't all that important in the grand scheme of it), and it's still a Springfield, you buy it and every dollar you spend improving it is pretty much lost - maybe even more (ie you buy a $1300 gun spend $1k making it better...you end up with a $1k gun) - I'm not going to buy a used and modified Prodigy unless it came from one of a small handful of gunsmiths - Joe Schmoe's 1911's-R-Us isn't going to cut it.  ;)  And just to kick the hornets nest further, a lot of the parts folks put in them are kinda mediocre out of everything that is out there (IMHO).  

But for most people, a bone stock out of the box Staccato will take most people deep into Limited/LO without even breaking a sweat.  

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15 hours ago, sandflea316 said:

I too have a prodigy and with all the stuff i did to it i could of easily bought a Staccato P. 

 

 

How much of that "stuff" was really necessary to make the gun run good?

 

15 hours ago, sandflea316 said:

My prodigy has a LSI steel grip, svi ignition kit, red dirt trigger, atlas ambi shielded safety, atlas tool less guide rod, nitro fin, holosun 507comp 

 

 

None of that stuff would have come on the Staccato either.

Edited by 392heminut
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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah, from what I can tell the white stuff on the grip is probably skin; kind of annoying/gross. Some of it comes off with a wipe down with microfiber or cotton t-shirt type cloth… for the rest… maybe use tape to pick it up?
 

For keyboard wrist rests that do this, I’ve usually used rubbing alcohol, cloths, and sometimes a scraper, but unsure how that would work here. Some experimentation required, probably.

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looks like I need a different holster. I purchased one from Scorpion Gear but once it snaps in it wobbles around inside the Kydex holster with about 1/8-1/4" give. I've screwed the two large screws down as hard as I can, and it looks like the spacer is too wide to allow it to screw down more

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29 minutes ago, WindsurferKaren said:

looks like I need a different holster. I purchased one from Scorpion Gear but once it snaps in it wobbles around inside the Kydex holster with about 1/8-1/4" give. I've screwed the two large screws down as hard as I can, and it looks like the spacer is too wide to allow it to screw down more

 

 

Might try comptac

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