Single Stack questions--holster, hand tools

[buckley]

I would appreciate a couple of recommendations.

 

1. I have a new-ish, blued 1911 and am thinking of trying it in Single Stack. Does anyone know of any holsters that would be less abrasive to the pistol's finish?

2. As for tools, do experienced folks have recommendations for grip screw screwdrivers or punches that would also inflict the least damage?

 

The trigger pull seems light enough on this one, but there really is a ton of creep for a M1911. So I am going to need to go in there and do something.

 

I am a longtime Glock guy, so I haven't really worried about protecting a gun's finish before.

 

Thanks and have a nice Thursday everyone.

[dapribek]

Found online:

How to prevent the polish from rubbing off your gun – If you are concerned that the holster you have is rubbing the finish/polish off your gun, it’s time to get a new one. You’ll want a holster that has a smooth lining, to reduce the amount of friction that is generated from drawing & holstering the firearm. The dense hard plastic used in kydex holsters can be very abrasive and can remove the finish and leave noticeable scratches on your firearm. Leather holsters are usually softer and break in to reduce the amount of force needed to draw the firearm from the holster. We suggest choosing a leather holster that is lined with a very soft and smooth leather, which generally reduces and/or eliminates the threat of abrasive friction.

[whan]

1. To some extent, it's going to be inevitable getting finish wear if you're shooting and practicing frequently enough. I wouldn't worry too much about it, bluing is one of the easiest finishes to refinish if needed. That said, consider maybe a Ghost Hydra P holster. It locks around the trigger guard so fits more loosely everywhere else. But bluing looks great with some wear as well, see here: https://www.1911addicts.com/threads/baer-utc-25k-round-write-up.32650/

 

2. I think it's more important just to get a screwdriver that is correctly sized for / fits the slot, so there's no slop. Usually damaging screws is due to an undersized screwdriver. On the punch point, not sure why this would be marring the finish. For the slide stop, you can just push it out using a pencil or something if it really matters

 

On the trigger, you won't be able to reduce creep very easily unless you're fitting and swapping in new parts or trying to file/fit the existing ignition control parts (Hammer, sear, disco) yourself. I've heard decent things about the Nighthawk drop-in trigger kit, but that's really the only drop-in kit I've heard of. 1911s just really aren't plug and play like glocks in terms of trigger kits

Edited August 24, 2023 by whan

[ltdmstr]

Gunsmith screwdrivers should be hollow ground type, which means the sides of the blade that go into the screw slot are straight and parallel, not tapered like typical screwdriver.  This applies more torque to the fastener and keeps from chewing up the screw heads.  For punches, Starrett machinist punches are pretty munch industry standard for steel.  And various companies make solid brass or brass tipped for more delicate stuff.  There are also nylon/Delrin tipped punches for non-marring.  You can get that stuff from Brownells, McMaster-Carr or various other sources.  On the trigger work, there's plenty of videos and info available online.  Brownells also has a good write-up somewhere on their web site for how to do a decent trigger job.  Just make sure you understand what you're doing before you start modifying parts.  And be sure to test your work.

[Effectus Magis Per Minor]

I have been looking at the Safariland 5197, it is suede lined.

https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Browse-by-Manufacturer/Safariland/Safariland-Open-Top-Competition-Belt-Slide-Holster-with-USPSA-kit-Model-5197-Right-hand

[f2benny]

The safariland and Garrett are suede lined which in theory might help.  But they hold grit which makes them worse ultimately.  A gun shot in uspsa and idpa will get dirty and it's better to have a holster that won't trap the sand and dirt against the finish.   The other issue is that those soft lined holsters don't have a good click in. 

[perttime]

A bit of wear on a pistol is just proof that it has been used. A very light coating of oil will keep the pistol from rusting.

 

I put allen head grip screws on my 1911 style pistol. I'm pretty sure torx is also available nowadays.

 

Changing the trigger pull is really a gunsmithing job - or try the Nighthawk unit.

 

 

[WFargo]

I have been using the DAA Race Master holsters for about a decade, for all my pistols. They only grip the trigger guard and are made of soft Delrin. 

I cannot think of a better holster to protect your pistol, unless your're not allowed to use it in Single Stack? but I don't think that that's the case. 

It still kind of amazes me that those Kydex buckets are so popular in the US instead of the race holsters....  unless it's not allowed per the division rules, of course. 

EDIT: ah, I just checked USPSA appendix D5 and indeed, race holsters are prohibited for Single Stack...  So my advice is useless... 

Edited August 25, 2023 by WFargo

[MadBomber]

Swap your grip screws out with torx head screws.  They are WAY better than slotted and they won't round out like Allen head.

[buckley]

Thanks for your input everyone.