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Converting A New 625 To Uspsa Race Trim


aerosigns

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I just bought a S&W Model 625 w/ 5" barrel. If all goes well I plan shoot this gun throughout the year, and to take it to the Area 5 match in August.

I know what things there are to modify or improve on. However, others have more experience with this particular model, and which modifications give you more bang for your buck. :D (Sorry, couldn't resist.)

If you had to do it on a budget and over time, what would you do in what order. The idea is to come up with a logical progession that constantly improves the weapon, without duplicating efforts.

I don't mind being the pointy end of the spear on this one. I know that if I am wondering, there are probably others with the same question.

Thanks to everyone.

Jim

Model_625.BMP

Edited by aerosigns
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Jim,

Merry Christmas. Go through this forum and the answers will be there by those more experienced than I am.

My first step would be to order 100 moon clips from Ranch Products http://ranchproducts.com/index.html Fill them, shoot it all off, repeat, and then see how you like the 625.

I have found that dry firing and actual shooting of a new revolver brings out the best and the defects (if any) and then you decide what you want to do.

Regards,

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I just bought a S&W Model 625 w/ 5" barrel. If all goes well I plan shoot this gun throughout the year, and to take it to the Area 5 match in August.

I know what things there are to modify or improve on. However, others have more experience with this particular model, and which modifications give you more bang for your buck. :D (Sorry, couldn't resist.)

If you had to do it on a budget and over time, what would you do in what order. The idea is to come up with a logical progession that constantly improves the weapon, without duplicating efforts.

I don't mind being the pointy end of the spear on this one. I know that if I am wondering, there are probably others with the same question.

Thanks to everyone.

Jim

Model_625.BMP

Trigger job. Chamfer cylinder. Blade Tech or other Kydex holster (make sure front sight fits). Moonclips and holders. Miculek Ultimate Revolver video. Open mind. Shoot matches.

Edited by underlug
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I have found that dry firing and actual shooting of a new revolver brings out the best and the defects (if any) and then you decide what you want to do.

+1 on that. Just shoot it and you will know what you want to change.

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Aerosigns,

Get some moonclips as mentioned before, shoot it until you decide what you wan to do first but here are the logical changes.

Different grip......you may like the Hogue, seems like most change it or modify it.

Trigger job.........Factory triggers are TERRIBLE..... :angry:

Chamfer of Cylinder....you can do this yourself, but be careful

Sights................Some have gone to Fiber optic fronts, most have changed the rear to something else(I recomend Millet....Medium height from brownells)

Why stop at Area-5? Since you are so close, get a slot and bring it to the Nationals at Barry in September. (you won't regret it) ;)

Hopalong

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Thanks guys.

Now I have been shooting for some time now, and agree with everything your saying about practice. And yes I am planning / hoping to go to the Nationals also.

But I am looking for more of an order to accomplish gunsmithing items. I am looking to people who already have the 625 for this purpose (USPSA). I am talking in general for the model, And not necessarily based on my gun.

Did you get more from chamfering the cylinder, or polishing the cylinder? Changing the front sight to gold dot or F/O, and was that more important than changing the grip, or chamfering the cylinder? That kind of thing.

Maybe someone has had some work done, and then realized that they shouldn't have done some items ala carte, when it would have been included when they had other work done.

Hopefully this explains my line of question.

Jim

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Thanks guys.

Now I have been shooting for some time now, and agree with everything your saying about practice. And yes I am planning / hoping to go to the Nationals also.

But I am looking for more of an order to accomplish gunsmithing items. I am looking to people who already have the 625 for this purpose (USPSA). I am talking in general for the model, And not necessarily based on my gun.

Did you get more from chamfering the cylinder, or polishing the cylinder? Changing the front sight to gold dot or F/O, and was that more important than changing the grip, or chamfering the cylinder? That kind of thing.

Maybe someone has had some work done, and then realized that they shouldn't have done some items ala carte, when it would have been included when they had other work done.

Hopefully this explains my line of question.

Jim

In order to compete, you need a competent trigger job. You also need a holster that will not slow you down as you draw on 95% of the stages. You will also reload, hence the chamfering. You will need to carry your ammo, hence the moon clips and clipholders. Sights and grips are individual things that you are better off trying before buying and not necessary to get started with. The beauty of the revolver is that there is very little to do. In the best of all worlds, you would just send the gun off to Randy Lee and say "do me". But, the basics will get you 80% there. I have seen very few situations when polishing the cylinder was necessary. Generally, good reloading and maybe a shot of Hornady One Shot will do the trick. Don't worry. Shoot lots of matches. Have lots of fun.

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Champering the cylinder is of great importance to reloading a 625 but let me add that cylinders do not come from the factory like the used to. I have had two 625s where you could still see the tool marks in them and when charging these holes factory ball ammo would not drop in freely.

I use a Flex Hone from Brownells and spent a lot of time polishing the inside of each chamber before rounds would just drop in like they should.

If you have a 625 try to drop your rounds in and if there is any delay from going completely to the bottom I would add a polishing job to the cylinder or at least have a gunsmith recut each chamber hole.

After the cylinder I find grips to be very important to me. I am not satisfied with what comes from any factory and will modify my grips so that moon clips (or speedloaders ) not come in contact witht he grip during unloading and loading. Slowly try to unload your revolver and if the full moon hangs up on the grip without dropping free you need to radious the grip until the moon will just fall.

If you are using a speedloader revolver you need to radious the grips until the rounds go straight in and are not affected by the grip. Some grips are contoured out a bit too much on the thumb area and will interfere.

Edited by AzShooter
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Jim, here's my list for a new (or nice used) 625:

1. action job with lightened hammer (done by me)

2. chamfer the charge holes (done by me)

3. Millett rear sight, black target

4. SDM fiber-optic up front (purely optional--my close second choice is to just narrow the stock black blade a little)

5. Ed Brown thumb release (never used this until I switched to the Spook/Dan reloads, though...)

6. Hoque rubber grips (or whatever feels right and lets your hand get up nice and high)

That's it. There is no equipment race in Revo. :)

Mike

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Aerosigns,

I got where you are coming from now.....

When I started this was the things I did.

1 CR speed Holster, (I think it is the best overall but there are others as good) You may want to look at the Blade-tech dropped and Offset too (cheaper and about as fast)

2 Wolf spring kit installed by me....got me to 8 pounds and ran that for a year.

At the same time I chamfered the Cylinders, I have not needed to hone or polish.

One and two were about a month apart.

3 grip change, I went to a Jerry Miculek, grips with revos are a real personal kind of thing any time you see someone shooting a wheelgun and they have a different grip, ask to try it.

4 Rear sight, I as mentioned before I use a Millet....Made it look like what I'm used to seeing from my autoblaster days. I went to the Millet after a year or so of shooting, should have gone quicker.

5 Installed a Black Majik spring kit and bobbed the hammer and really polished up the guts of the gun moving my DA trigger pull down to just over 5 pounds, I keep it on 6 even and never had a missfire/light strike this year(have shot 50,000+ set up like this) :D

PRACTICE in between 1 and 5 there was a bunch of this stuff, <_<

Hope that helps answer your question.

Hopalong

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If you had to do it on a budget and over time, what would you do in what order. The idea is to come up with a logical progession that constantly improves the weapon, without duplicating efforts.

Jim

Model_625.BMP

I'm in the process of building a back up gun to my old main gun. So I've thought about the same things. Of course, you're not going to get anywhere if you aren't reloading your own ammo with Federal primers, so I'll make that assume and move on.

In my view, the biggest change for the money comes from a new spring set. For less than $20.00 you can get a name-brand reduced power set that will drop right in and function. Now, some of the grey beards here cut and bend their factory springs so they don't even spend that much, but I'm the kind of guy that wanted to keep my old factory set up nearby (in case I made a mistake) so I could put it back and have a working gun. Of course, after you get a little farther along you'll want to reduce power even farther. Then you'll have something extra to cut and bend. ;)

I had S&W do a chamfer job on a replacement cylinder they installed for me. While it seems to be a popular mod I am underwhelmed by the cost/benefit. I use Starline brass in Ranch Moons for a "loose" clip fit. With a good crimp I don't see much difference in a chamfered cylinder. I'll address this again later...

I'm a big fan of the "fiber optic" front sight and white outline rear. The front sight is less than $30.00 and I think the W.O. rear sight kit to fit your Smith is something like $12.00.

I'm using Jerry's grip (does that make me one of "Jerry's Kids"?) and as you progress I think that getting a grip that's right for you is very important. We're getting up into the $70.00 range, so if you can try before you buy I would advise it. Some folks *really* don't like Jerry's grip, see if you can find out if you're one of them before you shell out the cash.

Good advice has been given about getting a trigger job. But as Jerry puts it (on his trigger job DVD no less) all a trigger job is, is putting several thousand rounds of wear on a new gun so you don't have to break it in. IMHO the spring kit will give you 80% of a typical trigger job (not a Randy Lee job of course!) the rest you can get in your first year of shooting.

In closing I will break down and recommend one last (and most expensive) modification; I think the Ti cylinder from the 325PD is the Mack Daddy in the 625. It will cost you close to $150.00 to buy and it will have to be fitted to the gun. It weighs *much* less than the stock part and greatly reduces rotating forces (both from rest and while in motion). It also looks to me like it is made with proper chamfers built in. There, I said it.

The other stuff that comes next begins to cross out of the "plug and play" category and into the "black arts" of modifications. Maybe when you've dropped in some of the doo-dads above and had some success you'll be inspired to start carving chunks off of your hammer or radically altering your lockup. In the meantime you've got some shooting to do. B)

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Hopalong,

Tell me more about this Black Majik Spring Kit. Who carries it and how much fitting does it take to install?

I have already ordered J. Miculeks video on trigger jobs. I am an AR-15 armorer so I just need to learn a new trick or two. I was scheduled to go to the S&W armorers school this month, but got pushed back due to work load. Dang it.

But when I do get to go, they told me that I can bring along one S&W gun with me to work on while I am in school.

Also, I am trying to find a holster that will fit my 5" barrel. Other than CR speed & Blade-tec that's all I can find.

Thanks,

Jim

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Also, I am trying to find a holster that will fit my 5" barrel. Other than CR speed & Blade-tec that's all I can find.

You can also try the Safariland 002 Cup Challenge holster or the Universal "Extreme" holster available from Shooter's Connection.

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Also, I am trying to find a holster that will fit my 5" barrel. Other than CR speed & Blade-tec that's all I can find.

You can also try the Safariland 002 Cup Challenge holster or the Universal "Extreme" holster available from Shooter's Connection.

I tried looking for the Universal Extreme holster at shooters connection but couldn't find it. Can you provide a bit more info or a link?

Thanks,

-Cuz.

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Also, I am trying to find a holster that will fit my 5" barrel. Other than CR speed & Blade-tec that's all I can find.

You can also try the Safariland 002 Cup Challenge holster or the Universal "Extreme" holster available from Shooter's Connection.

I tried looking for the Universal Extreme holster at shooters connection but couldn't find it. Can you provide a bit more info or a link?

Thanks,

-Cuz.

http://shootersconnection.com/store/index.php?cPath=26

That is the only Garcia Holster I see.

Regards,

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Also, I am trying to find a holster that will fit my 5" barrel. Other than CR speed & Blade-tec that's all I can find.

You can also try the Safariland 002 Cup Challenge holster or the Universal "Extreme" holster available from Shooter's Connection.

I tried looking for the Universal Extreme holster at shooters connection but couldn't find it. Can you provide a bit more info or a link?

Thanks,

-Cuz.

http://shootersconnection.com/store/index.php?cPath=26

That is the only Garcia Holster I see.

Regards,

That's the one. Thanks Round_Gun_Shooter.

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