Which Striker Spring.

[GigG]

G34.5 running stock striker spring.  I want to replace it with a little stronger spring. What should I go with?

[dapribek]

Here you go:

 

https://lonewolfdist.com/parts/slide-parts/firing-pin-spring/

[CHuynh]

Out of curiosity, Why are you looking for a stronger one?

[GigG]

I've had some primers not go pop lately and I'm about 99.9% sure they aren't high primers.  I think the root cause is a combination of the Timney trigger and a worn striker spring.

[GigG]

18 hours ago, dapribek said:

Here you go:

 

https://lonewolfdist.com/parts/slide-parts/firing-pin-spring/

 

So is the GLOCK FIRING PIN SPRING 5 LB the factory weight spring?

[CHuynh]

58 minutes ago, GigG said:

 

So is the GLOCK FIRING PIN SPRING 5 LB the factory weight spring?

If I recall correctly, stock is 5.5lbs. I run a 4.5 in my gen 3 with a Timney. 

[LowSpeedHighDrag]

9 minutes ago, CHuynh said:

If I recall correctly, stock is 5.5lbs. I run a 4.5 in my gen 3 with a Timney. 

I’d recommend returning to using a stock spring.

[LowSpeedHighDrag]

1 hour ago, GigG said:

I've had some primers not go pop lately and I'm about 99.9% sure they aren't high primers.  I think the root cause is a combination of the Timney trigger and a worn striker spring.

I just had the same problem, but it was a worn striker.

 

[CHuynh]

20 minutes ago, LowSpeedHighDrag said:

I’d recommend returning to using a stock spring.

Mind if I ask why? So far, haven't had any issues with the 4.5. But I'd rather avoid any potential problems if you suggest otherwise 

[LowSpeedHighDrag]

5 hours ago, CHuynh said:

Mind if I ask why? So far, haven't had any issues with the 4.5. But I'd rather avoid any potential problems if you suggest otherwise 

 

A lighter striker spring is used in a stock(-ish) trigger to reduce the pull weight.  When the trigger is reset the striker is not fully cocked like a 1911 hammer would be.  As you pull the trigger you pull the striker back and compress the striker spring.

 

With a Timney trigger the striker is fully to the rear and the spring is compressed.  Pulling the trigger releases the striker.

 

A heavier striker spring will mean a better hit on the primer, plus should add a bit of recoil absorption.  Don't think there would be any advantage to a light striker spring with the Timney.

 

Note: I am not a gunsmith nor do I play one on television.

 

[sx2gl35]

Clean your striker channel?

 

Replace your channel liner?

 

New spring cups?

[LowSpeedHighDrag]

3 minutes ago, sx2gl35 said:

Clean your striker channel?

 

Replace your channel liner?

 

New spring cups?

 

Hmmm.  Hadn't even thought about the channel liner let alone the spring cups...  Would new ones make that much of a difference?

[CHuynh]

13 minutes ago, LowSpeedHighDrag said:

 

A lighter striker spring is used in a stock(-ish) trigger to reduce the pull weight.  When the trigger is reset the striker is not fully cocked like a 1911 hammer would be.  As you pull the trigger you pull the striker back and compress the striker spring.

 

With a Timney trigger the striker is fully to the rear and the spring is compressed.  Pulling the trigger releases the striker.

 

A heavier striker spring will mean a better hit on the primer, plus should add a bit of recoil absorption.  Don't think there would be any advantage to a light striker spring with the Timney.

 

Note: I am not a gunsmith nor do I play one on television.

 

Copy. So what do you play on television then?

[sx2gl35]

5 minutes ago, LowSpeedHighDrag said:

 

Hmmm.  Hadn't even thought about the channel liner let alone the spring cups...  Would new ones make that much of a difference?

Depends on how long they been in there; cheap to find out.

 

I'm running 4# striker springs; sets off CCI, Win, primers without fail.

[LowSpeedHighDrag]

12 minutes ago, sx2gl35 said:

Depends on how long they been in there; cheap to find out.

 

 

Sounds like a good idea.  Thanks.

[eboos]

On 2/15/2023 at 11:44 AM, GigG said:

I've had some primers not go pop lately and I'm about 99.9% sure they aren't high primers.  I think the root cause is a combination of the Timney trigger and a worn striker spring.

Is it possible you are not returning fully into battery?

 

I have a Gen 4 G34 with a pure tungsten extended guide rod and a 13lbs spring and a 4.5lbs striker spring along with a Zev lightweight striker. I am still trouble shooting this setup since I just got a Timney trigger. Never had light strikes before installing the Timney, but on recoil spring testing the gun was hanging up when slowly riding the slide forward while holding the gun vertically. This was repeated with a stainless steel guide rod and 13lbs flat spring - same results. In live fire testing I did get one light strike and a few instances where the gun was not returning to battery fully. I've ordered a 4lbs striker spring and a 15lbs recoil spring in order to try a couple of different combinations. Of course, there is no problem returning to battery with the stock recoil spring, but that will not reliably cycle my loads (147gr over 3.2gr WST, 134pf). CCI primers.

 

Other things I am going to try is polishing the striker channel, cups and spring. I will also play around with checking striker interference on the Timney trigger bar using an armorer's plate and the striker spring removed.

[Aar0n_K]

I had to use a 6lb striker spring until I saw that people were filing down the top of the trigger bar due to striker drag. 

Once I did that, I could return back to a factory spring with no light strikes anymore. 

I recently even went down to a 5lb striker spring from the factory 5.5lb and everything still runs perfectly.

 

Checklist in addition to filing down the top of the bar:

Striker channel is clean

The spring cups are seated properly

Polish striker spring and striker lug

 

 

[LowSpeedHighDrag]

4 hours ago, Aar0n_K said:

I had to use a 6lb striker spring until I saw that people were filing down the top of the trigger bar due to striker drag. 

Once I did that, I could return back to a factory spring with no light strikes anymore. 

I recently even went down to a 5lb striker spring from the factory 5.5lb and everything still runs perfectly.

 

Checklist in addition to filing down the top of the bar:

Striker channel is clean

The spring cups are seated properly

Polish striker spring and striker lug

 

 

Okay, stupid question - why would you need to use a reduced striker spring with the Timney trigger?  With the standard Glock setup, yes, but the Timney resets so the striker spring is already fully compressed.

[Braxton1]

I would agree with Aaron_K and eboos above. 

 

A lot of the issues with this trigger have been caused by the Lower Lug of the OEM Firing Pin dragging on the Timney trigger bar, absorbing some of the energy of the strike.

 

Timney used to sell an aftermarket Firing Pin whose Lower Lug was flat on the bottom, compared to the rounded radius of the OEM part.  This greatly reduced that drag, plus had the further advantage of a crisper trigger because the sear was releasing across a broad surface, rather than one whose engagement area gets narrower the farther down the sear moves along its travel.  AFAIK, they have discontinued their Firing Pin.  I have been modifying OEM pins to replicate this engagement.

 

With the Timney unit and OEM ones that I have seen modified, nearly 100% engagement has been maintained.

[MuayThaiJJ]

Interesting, I have no issues with a 4# Zev or Wolff striker spring. You could try factory replacement and if it's still an issue the problem might be the striker itself

[LowSpeedHighDrag]

57 minutes ago, Braxton1 said:

Timney used to sell an aftermarket Firing Pin whose Lower Lug was flat on the bottom, compared to the rounded radius of the OEM part.  This greatly reduced that drag, plus had the further advantage of a crisper trigger because the sear was releasing across a broad surface, rather than one whose engagement area gets narrower the farther down the sear moves along its travel.
 

Interesting, and worth a try.  Thanks.

[eboos]

On 4/12/2023 at 6:03 PM, LowSpeedHighDrag said:

Okay, stupid question - why would you need to use a reduced striker spring with the Timney trigger?  With the standard Glock setup, yes, but the Timney resets so the striker spring is already fully compressed.

 

Due to the balance between the recoil spring and the striker spring working against each other. If you need a reduced power recoil spring to cycle lighter loads than a stock striker spring could prevent the slide from returning to battery. This problem is magnified by the Timney having the striker spring fully compressed.

 

 

21 hours ago, Braxton1 said:

I would agree with Aaron_K and eboos above. 

 

A lot of the issues with this trigger have been caused by the Lower Lug of the OEM Firing Pin dragging on the Timney trigger bar, absorbing some of the energy of the strike.

 

Timney used to sell an aftermarket Firing Pin whose Lower Lug was flat on the bottom, compared to the rounded radius of the OEM part.  This greatly reduced that drag, plus had the further advantage of a crisper trigger because the sear was releasing across a broad surface, rather than one whose engagement area gets narrower the farther down the sear moves along its travel.  AFAIK, they have discontinued their Firing Pin.  I have been modifying OEM pins to replicate this engagement.

 

With the Timney unit and OEM ones that I have seen modified, nearly 100% engagement has been maintained.

 

Did a check to see if there was any trigger bar interference. Took off back plate and pulled the trigger slowly until the striker was released. Holding the trigger at that release point I rode the striker forward and there was no contact between the striker and the trigger bar. Any marks on the trigger bar must be during reset.

So what I have is simply an imbalance between the recoil spring and the striker spring. The light strikes were a symptom of not fully returning to battery. This imbalance is magnified by the Timney system’s “cocked” striker. Currently running 13lbs recoil spring and 4.5 striker spring. Ordered 4lbs striker spring and 15lbs recoil spring to try different combos. Already using a light weight striker. My present spring combo always set off the rounds, but occasionally I had issues returning to battery.

[MuayThaiJJ]

There is a balance between load, recoil spring, and striker spring if you use an aftermarket trigger system like the Timney or Glock Perf. I found that I needed to either clip the factory striker spring, use a reduced power striker spring, or use a stronger recoil spring to go fully back into battery

[MarilynMonbro]

On 4/12/2023 at 11:48 AM, eboos said:

Is it possible you are not returning fully into battery?

 

I have a Gen 4 G34 with a pure tungsten extended guide rod and a 13lbs spring and a 4.5lbs striker spring along with a Zev lightweight striker. I am still trouble shooting this setup since I just got a Timney trigger. Never had light strikes before installing the Timney, but on recoil spring testing the gun was hanging up when slowly riding the slide forward while holding the gun vertically. This was repeated with a stainless steel guide rod and 13lbs flat spring - same results. In live fire testing I did get one light strike and a few instances where the gun was not returning to battery fully. I've ordered a 4lbs striker spring and a 15lbs recoil spring in order to try a couple of different combinations. Of course, there is no problem returning to battery with the stock recoil spring, but that will not reliably cycle my loads (147gr over 3.2gr WST, 134pf). CCI primers.

 

Other things I am going to try is polishing the striker channel, cups and spring. I will also play around with checking striker interference on the Timney trigger bar using an armorer's plate and the striker spring removed.

 

My 34.5 with timney, stock striker spring, and 15# recoil spring was going out of battery after reloads.  If the reload were done while moving then the slide would close, but flat footed reloads the slide would stay out of battery.

 

I purchased a 17# wolff recoil spring and I could replicate the issue.  

 

I think Glock Wolff recoil springs are too short.

Edited April 17, 2023 by MarilynMonbro

[eboos]

I measured a few different striker springs using a Lyman digital trigger pull gauge. With the slide off the frame I set the trigger pull gauge on the striker extension and pulled it back until the striker was at the point where it would be when released by the sear. With a 4.5lbs spring in the gun that was causing out of battery issues with the 13lbs recoil spring I got a pull weight of 4lbs 11oz. A new 4.5 spring produced similar results. With a new 4lbs spring I got a measurement of 4lbs 6 oz. After putting the slide back on the frame I checked to see if there was any hesitation to go into battery - so far there is none. Will live fire test tomorrow.