Weird RDS issue

[ultimase]

I have a sp01 slide that was milled with the CZCustom plate system that I currently have an RMR sitting on. For some weird reason the left side screws on both the RMR and on the plate back themselves out after a few hundred rounds. I've tried blue loctite, I've tried purple loctite, cleaning with brake clean, cleaning with acetone and thus far the left side will still back out after 700ish rounds I've marked the heads of the screws so I can clearly see the rotation at least on the ones holding the RMR to the plate.

 

At this point I'm about to try to use loctite red at least on the plate to slide screws. The blue loctite holds fairly well on the rmr to the plate, but I do have to keep an eye on the left screw after a few hundred rounds.

 

In the past I've avoided red loctite for fear of stripping the screws or not being able to get the loctite to release, but it seems that most people just use a soldering iron to get the red loctite to release easily, alleviating some of my fears.

 

Anyone else have this issue, any suggestions?

 

Thanks guys and gals.

[yigal]

1 hour ago, ultimase said:

I have a sp01 slide that was milled with the CZCustom plate system that I currently have an RMR sitting on. For some weird reason the left side screws on both the RMR and on the plate back themselves out after a few hundred rounds. 

It's like in politics. The leftists always cause problems.

[gerritm]

Try Vibratite VC3. Different kind of loctite & follow directions. Have had this problem with a CZ plate & SRO. Tried all kinds of different loctite combos and so far this seems to work. 

 

gerritm

[Johnny_Chimpo]

3 hours ago, ultimase said:

I have a sp01 slide that was milled with the CZCustom plate system that I currently have an RMR sitting on. For some weird reason the left side screws on both the RMR and on the plate back themselves out after a few hundred rounds. I've tried blue loctite, I've tried purple loctite, cleaning with brake clean, cleaning with acetone and thus far the left side will still back out after 700ish rounds I've marked the heads of the screws so I can clearly see the rotation at least on the ones holding the RMR to the plate.

 

At this point I'm about to try to use loctite red at least on the plate to slide screws. The blue loctite holds fairly well on the rmr to the plate, but I do have to keep an eye on the left screw after a few hundred rounds.

 

In the past I've avoided red loctite for fear of stripping the screws or not being able to get the loctite to release, but it seems that most people just use a soldering iron to get the red loctite to release easily, alleviating some of my fears.

 

Anyone else have this issue, any suggestions?

 

Thanks guys and gals.

 

The first thing I would have already done is call CZ Custom and describe the issue, then listen to and act on any of their suggestions.

 

This should not be happening in a properly designed and manufactured threaded joint.  You might have poorly machined threads, or maybe fasteners that are a touch too long for their holes.  Screws that are too long will bottom out and achieve torque without creating the needed axial tension to keep them from unscrewing on their own.

 

Remember that torque is not what keeps a screw tight, axial loading does.  Torque is used as substitute because in a properly designed joint there is a linear relationship between the two and torque is a whole lot cheaper to measure.

 

Adding stronger locking compounds is just a band-aid.

[deerslayer]

Do you have the steel or aluminum plate?  I couldn’t keep a dot on my SP-01 with RDS and was using the aluminum plate.  A couple people in the know told me to ditch the aluminum plate and get the steel one.  The steel one wasn’t available until recently and I bought one but haven’t had a chance to try it. 

Edited January 4, 2023 by deerslayer

[Malarky112]

14 hours ago, deerslayer said:

Do you have the steel or aluminum plate?  I couldn’t keep a dot on my SP-01 with RDS and was using the aluminum plate.  A couple people in the know told me to ditch the aluminum plate and get the steel one.  The steel one wasn’t available until recently and I bought one but haven’t had a chance to try it. 

I’d second that. If they offer the steel plate for your optic, get it. The aluminum wear out too quickly 

[Lee64]

The two posts above reflect my experience with a C-More RTS sight.  I went thru two CZC Shadow 1 aluminum RDS plates that wouldn't hold for 3 stages, even with red locktite. I switched out with a steel RDS plate and blue locktite and the screws have held for two matches.