Anyone using Anti Spatter Spray to reduce comp buildup?

[Scrounger]

4 hours ago, Bdh821 said:

An engraving pen with a sharpened brass punch chips carbon out quite fast.  Brass is much softer than titanium so it doesnt scratch/engrave the comp at all.  It's my preferred method  

 

I’m definitely gonna try this. 

[Bdh821]

Just now, Scrounger said:

I’m definitely gonna try this. 

I don’t use any solvent or anything. I’d suggest using safety glasses tho 

[Scrounger]

Does the dremel engraving tool work better than running a brass bit in the standard dremel rotary tool?

[brian45acp]

On 9/25/2023 at 12:30 PM, Scrounger said:

Which did you think worked better, anti-spatter or one shot case lube?

At first I felt the one shot was the best but found myself still really picking hard at big carbon deposits. I clean spotless every match so this is one match worth of carbon. Then I tried the welders crap past 2 matches and no more big build up. Very light carbon and I scrape it out with brass picks and a copper brush. Avid sells a brush kit with multiple style brushes that work great for many things. I got it on amazon. 

 

The welders stuff is significantly better and I am going to keep using it. Considering using it as case lube as well but not sure about the contamination of powder and primer. I need to experiment and see how well it dries on brass. If it dries I will try it for case lube as well. 

 

 

[Runswithwood1]

Hopefully this thread is still alive but I find myself wondering, is a brake even really needed for 9 minor loads? I've tot a single port on my build and havent really noticed any adverse affects of not having it, main reason is it serves as a suppressor attachment 

[ysrracer]

2 hours ago, Runswithwood1 said:

Hopefully this thread is still alive but I find myself wondering, is a brake even really needed for 9 minor loads?

 

No, but they look cool

[Scrounger]

I wonder that as well. Mine is a JP factory 14.5 pinned, as required in my socialist state.  Brekke seems to think so, with the comp in front of his barrel extension, but maybe that’s because it’s a 10-12” barrel?
 

I got rid of it on my 22. My AMD timer picks up the shots without a brake, so no more cleaning that one 

Edited September 29, 2023 by Scrounger

[Runswithwood1]

3 hours ago, ysrracer said:

 

No, but they look cool

Well, you got me there, looking cool is what it's all about. The good thing about cool looking match videos is you can't see all the delta Mike's haha

[PCC_GUY]

Any tips for getting fouling out of the ultralight shrouded barrels further down? The comp portion isnt relaly to tough to get after but further down towards the crown seems to be the "hard to reach places."  The crud cutter from TACCOM works amazing on their barrels but the diameter is a little too wide for the JP UL barrels at .720"

[ysrracer]

1 hour ago, PCC_GUY said:

Any tips for getting fouling out of the ultralight shrouded barrels further down? The comp portion isnt relaly to tough to get after but further down towards the crown seems to be the "hard to reach places."  The crud cutter from TACCOM works amazing on their barrels but the diameter is a little too wide for the JP UL barrels at .720"

 

Does the build up affect anything?

[PCC_GUY]

On 9/29/2023 at 2:24 PM, ysrracer said:

 

Does the build up affect anything?

It will if it accumulates enough particularly around the crown area. Once the fouling starts getting to the point that it protrudes into the path of the bullet it can start to impact your accuracy. Also on the JP models there is a screw on access port on midway down the barrel which will allow you to get in and do maintenance around the crown area.  If the fouling gets bad enough, it can make getting this cover off extremely difficult (or impossible) which can compound the problem. 

[Scrounger]

On 9/29/2023 at 10:04 AM, PCC_GUY said:

Any tips for getting fouling out of the ultralight shrouded barrels further down? The comp portion isnt relaly to tough to get after but further down towards the crown seems to be the "hard to reach places."  The crud cutter from TACCOM works amazing on their barrels but the diameter is a little too wide for the JP UL barrels at .720"

Taccom made a toothed jig for this. Not sure how well it works. My buddy also

uses a 12 gauge brass brush/rod chucked to a drill that he says works well. I think you have to do it every time your done shooting with a shrouded barrel or your lost.

 

Even with anti spatter and soaking overnight in Kroil or Solvent, most of us are chipping it off with metal pics, punches, etc. 

 

JP makes an ultralight shrouded barrel with a door to the crown that works well, but it’s pricey. I gave up on the shrouded barrel, in RFRO I use the Briley and for PCC 14.5 pinned JP. The 10’ Brekke with the 6” comp/cage is a nice solution too. Light, easy to clean and well priced. He’s a great guy too. 

[brian45acp]

If you guys are using plated or coated junk its lead that you are accumulating. The long barrels produce heat to those bullets and they shave and melt lead. I guess the big difference here isnt what we spray on the comps its a true jacketed bullet vs coated/plated. 

[ysrracer]

52 minutes ago, brian45acp said:

If you guys are using plated or coated junk its lead that you are accumulating. The long barrels produce heat to those bullets and they shave and melt lead. I guess the big difference here isnt what we spray on the comps its a true jacketed bullet vs coated/plated. 

 

I'm using RMR 124gr Match Winner bullet, it's a true jacketed bullet, and under $0.10 each.

[Scrounger]

I’ll have to track it. I’m using RMR 380 95gr FMJ for my steel loads, but that does have the exposed lead base. For USPSA I’m using his 115gr JHP. Was chipping at the comp last week a little (with my respirator on) despite using anti-spatter. Most of my recent shooting has been with the FMJ. 

[shred]

On 9/29/2023 at 6:21 AM, Runswithwood1 said:

Hopefully this thread is still alive but I find myself wondering, is a brake even really needed for 9 minor loads? I've tot a single port on my build and havent really noticed any adverse affects of not having it, main reason is it serves as a suppressor attachment 

Yes they do something.  Easy way to tell is clock the comp at 90 degrees and see what the dot does.

 

If that's enough to matter for you... YMMV

 

[Bdh821]

2 hours ago, brian45acp said:

If you guys are using plated or coated junk its lead that you are accumulating. The long barrels produce heat to those bullets and they shave and melt lead. I guess the big difference here isnt what we spray on the comps its a true jacketed bullet vs coated/plated. 

How is plated projos leaving lead?  There’s no exposed lead with plated.  I’ve even seen my projos after being shot and the plating is 100% intact. I’d get the same amount of build up with the RMR FMJs I used 

[ysrracer]

32 minutes ago, shred said:

Yes they do something.  Easy way to tell is clock the comp at 90 degrees and see what the dot does.

 

If that's enough to matter for you... YMMV

 

 

Damn I wish I had thought of this

 

I'll try it next range day.

[Scrounger]

I’m curious about other’s experience with plated bullets leading up barrels/comps as well. I have seen plating flake off if bullets are over-crimped or run at very high velocity.
 

Ran a camera down my barrel and it looked like I struck gold with all the flakes