PCC_GUY

I know this is a common problem, but I am not sure if I just haven't found the right search terms to turn up the result I am looking for. Bought Springer Precision base pads and installed them on my new P320 mags and of course none of them fit the USPSA official gauge. The issue seems to be the upper portion near the top of the mag behind the feed lips. My question is where should I sand the mag body to get it to fit the gauge? Should I just round off the top area with some sandpaper? Should I sand the bottom area where the base pad slides on? Take a bit off of both? It's very close but just enough where the "slight one finger pressure" isn't going to get the fit.

Funny you say that - took it out last night to a steel challenge match after a thorough cleaning, extra pil on the rails, and a flitz polished feed ramp and it ran fine. I also used my handloads which are a little shorter so that may have helped as well.

So yiu think I should go to a heavier recoil spring? I have a CHW yellow in there which is 11lb think going to a 12 would work? I know the factory 14 lb was no good stovepiped badly.

Took it out to the range yesterday. Shot the longer ammo and had the same issue with both the Hennings extended mags and the regular factory ones I use in production. Rounds are tip up jamming at an angle (usually on the initial load) and occasionally the slide is not going fully into battery thereafter. I also tried shorter handloads that I make which also had the same malfuncrions. I tried both the extended and factory mags in a second Shadow 2 that I use for production and no issues with either ammo or mag. When I got home from the range, I detail cleaned the CO gun with particular focus on the slide rails (the gun was admittedly very dirty). While I had it apart, I polished the feed ramp with Flitz to see if maybe a combination of dirty gun, dry slide rails, and friction on the feed ramp were retarding the action and causing the problems. I have the same yellow 11lb recoil spring in both guns - perhaps this is too light to slam it home with the optic? Is there something I am missing here?

I have a mag brush that I use regularly for USPSA matches but these have been issues at steel challenge if late. The mags are tabled and never touch the ground.

No everything inside the gun is factory. I have maybe 5k through it between steel challenge and USPSA matches. When I got home last night I looked at the ammo I have been attempting to run through it as of late and it is a longer and narrower (pointier) bullet profile. Long enough where you can easily see the difference without calipers. The owner of this ammo company is local and when I first encountered this problem we plunk tested it after a match and he was convinced it was the mags which is why I was sanding the original Hennings followers before switching to the MBX of late. I made up a bunch of my handloads and am going to try them out tomorrow to see if I can isolate the problem as an ammo issue. Normally I would just keep reloading but components are still expensive so I was really hoping to find another option for completed rounds as the price on these is good and they use quality components geared toward competitors. Interesting enough I ran this same ammo through my brand new and un-reamed Shadow 2 compact with ZERO issues last weekend. Will also try to run it through my iron sights Shadow 2 when I go out tomorrow and perhaps use my production mags without the extensions to see if I can isolate a mag problem. Sadly the saga continues

So update. I purchased MBX springs and followers instead of the complete mags. I am using the nickel MecGar mags with Hennings extensions. I am still getting the same problem with boat nosing rounds constantly. It's not even allowing me to chamber the first round. I am wondering if the gun just doesn't like this ammo? The barrels have been reamed to allow me some flexibility for longer OALs. The chamber on mine was particularly tight and was not allowing me to load beyond 1.105 OAL. Thoughts?

Appreciate the advice - I got some 600 grit that I use to clean up my ETS mags for the PCC that should do the trick. Both mags in question were nickel mags (the black mag was one of the two that worked) so that tracks.

Ran into what I believe to be a magazine issue in my S2 at a match yesterday. Gun was either failing to go fully into battery or boat nosing causing a jam which forced me to have to bump it with my palm or remove the mag entirely to shake the round out. At the end of the match, I pulled all four mags apart and in two of them the follower was like dragging or there was some excess friction inside that was preventing the follower from freely moving and fully snapping up as it should. These were Hennings extended base pads with grams followers I bought as a complete unit, but maybe have 5k rounds on them so it seems premature for it to be springs. I don't store mags with rounds in them for extended periods I just load for matches and I generally download to 22 to allow the mags to seat easier between reloads. My dilemma is I could tune the existing mags by smoothing around the edges of the followers with some high grit sandpaper and polish the insides of the mag body with some flitz in "hopes" it will fix the problem and buy new springs. However, there are sales on MBX mags right now so this might be a good time to just upgrade. Anybody have any experience running the MBX in a S2 and is the juice worth the squeeze as far as the cost? I have used MBX in my 2011s with zero issues so I am wondering if it might be prudent to upgrade to a full-length single piece 140mm magazine body, thus eliminating a potential failure point with the follower getting snagged on an extension. Thoughts?

well maybe just use the iron sights for RFPI instead.

Well crap, there goes that idea. Thanks for the heads up

I shoot a lot of SCSA and USPSA and was looking at a Shadow 2 Kadet to shoot in RFPO and to use as a .22 trainer for my USPSA CO gun. I know CGW won't, but are there any companies out there that will mill a Kadet slide? I am not completely opposed to just using a dovetail mount if I absolutely have to but they sit higher than the optics ready CZ plates so not ideal.

When I was shooting USPSA exclusively I was a 510c guy like many others have recommended. When I went to SCSA I broke ranks and went to the Cmore Railway and have not looked back. The primary driver for change was the flexibility to swap out the module. For USPSA I prefer as smaller 6MOA profile as we routinely encounter small poppers and tight shots at distance. For SCSA I like an 8MOA for faster target acquisition. Because of this the ability to make adjustments and the relatively low cost of the Cmore made sense for us because we shoot both disciplines equally. C more also has exceptional customer service and support.

To heap on to what a few others have said from an RO perspective. For a plinking gun or a trunk gun I think this would be fine, but would exercise caution as a competition gun even with SCSA. For matches I would recommend at least getting a full length carbine bag that allows this to be carried from stage to stage without being folded over or using a cart for transport. We had someone DQ a few matches ago with a collapsible stock folded in a bag. If price point is the driving factor for your selection I would offer that you could build a competitive PCC with a PSA lower and a TACCOM upper that would accept more reliable Glock mags for marginally more cost. This, and other similar combos, have been run by numerous top tier competitors as an ultra lightweight build that is cost friendly. While I have since become a JP convert, I was running one of these for a while before I made the switch.

Boomstick, GOF, and Ner have given you some sound nuggets of advice that I would echo here. As others have said, I found the laser to be of limited utility under most match conditions other than select stages at a major. I also ran a Crimson Trace (in green) a few years ago until I lost it at a match (fell off when I was carting my PCC somewhere). Because I never really missed it I just never bothered to replace it. For hard leans I have personally found a 45 degree offset mounted micro red dot to have more utility and has the added benefit if being a viable backup sight. Others have mentioned high power cheap lasers. I have heard similar as far as powerful Chinese made lasers on eBay which don't wash out as easily under sunny conditions. The issue is that lasers like these are typically bulky, not ruggedized, and usually cannot be easily turned off thus becoming a distraction while you are shooting. This is not to say lasers are not useful as I was a CRO at PCC nationals last year and watched a senior crush a short classifier which had a single popper that could be engaged off the hip very fast. However, I could have easily shot 100 matches before ever finding another use for my laser. If you go the laser route would recommend the sage advice offered by others to definitely practice with it as it is an acquired skill to use to any great effect. During every practice, I would incorporate a couple of repetitions of laser drills and 45 degree drills to sustain/improve proficiency with both.

I just installed the Geissele 2D3G about 3 weeks ago in my JP5. Works great as others have said without modification. So for me there was red loktite on the factory JP anti walk pins, so I essentially destroyed these getting them out. As such, I used the Geissele pins which have worked well through several matches to include a major match. I have talked to several other competitors that have done this mod and they all used the Geissele pins without issue. As to the second part of your question the JP safety will NOT work with the 2D3G. I got really good at installing this trigger because I thought I was doing something wrong as it wouldn't come off safe after installation. After a few tries I called a buddy who had done the install and he told me I would need to get a different safety. I chose the Geissele safety as I knew it would work, was on sale, and was similar to a MILSPEC which I generally prefer anyway. Hopefully this helps.

I am still working on my centerfire game in SCSA, but my coach has said the same to me. Really work on getting a consistent 1.5 second draw with hits on plate (regardless of stage). Once you get to this point, the rest is just sheer will while paying attention to the details and is further refined/reinforced by an excellent dryfire routine as Ken V. alluded to in his book. Set the par time on your timer slightly faster than you can currently go and force yourself to move beyond your comfort zone, paying close attention during execution and being critically honest with yourself (video will tattle on you). Once you get this down in dry fire then take it to the range and work on execution. I am by no means even close to a one second draw, but that is what I am told it will take to get there.

Good deal will give that a try. Hoping to pick up an extra extended safety for my CO gun (this way I can shoot it in OPN in SCSA), but for some reason it didn't come with one like my other Shadow 2 did. I have checked all of the major vendors and the safeties have been on backorder forever it seems like.

Thats fair and I try to reload as much as possible, but when you are reloading for 4 its sometimes nice to sub in some factory here and there. Lately been having trouble getting processed brass with regularity. We shoot so many matches at our local ranges with guys loading 9mm MAJ that I am not really comfortable going range chicken under the risk that some of that brass might be very "stressed."

It will if it accumulates enough particularly around the crown area. Once the fouling starts getting to the point that it protrudes into the path of the bullet it can start to impact your accuracy. Also on the JP models there is a screw on access port on midway down the barrel which will allow you to get in and do maintenance around the crown area. If the fouling gets bad enough, it can make getting this cover off extremely difficult (or impossible) which can compound the problem.

Thanks much! Is it really difficult to put in or fairly straightforward?

I occasionally shoot Production (PROD) in USPSA with an otherwise unmodified CZ Shadow 2. I am considering installing the extended safety that came with it so I can also use the gun in Limited for SCSA with the hammer back (the flat safety is rather difficult to manipulate quickly). Obviously, this hasn't been an issue for PROD as the hammer must be down, but in the interest of not having to install/uninstall the extended safety wanted to know whether the extended safety that CZ provides with the gun will fit in the PROD box. I did a historic search, and it looks like the question as to whether or not the extended safety was legal was already answered, but there seemed to be no answer as to whether it would fit in the box with the extended safety installed. Has anyone tried this and confirm whether it will fit?

For most USPSA applications, I am a big fan of 6 MOA which I find to be a good compromise for accuracy on those stages where they throw a 35-40 yard popper out there at a nationals, but be large/bright enough for fast acquisitions. There is still the occasional outdoor stage in the early morning where you will battle with some washout, but by-in-large its a good compromise. For SCSA I generally like a larger 8 MOA configuration as this seems to allow for decent target acquisition and is well rounded for brightness when you are shooting at different venues. This makes the Cmore Railway an ideal choice for me as I hjave the flexabilty to swap out the modules from match to match.

Agree with what many others have said here. When there is a shortage of ammo / components reloading can save you a decent amount of money, especially if you take the time to process your own brass. However, when ammo prices are moderate it's really less about savings and more about tuning the load to your particular gun, particularly if you are shooting PCC in a delayed roller configuration or in SCSA applications where you are running light loads. I am in a similar situation as the OP as my family of four all shoots competitively, and I am generally shooting a lot of ammo. That said, I have little time to process brass up for that amount of volume, so I find myself buying processed brass as a time saver (particularly before major matches). Or because I am shooting in this type of volume, it is sometimes cheaper to just bulk buy factory when I can get the right sale price and I am shooting in divisions that don't rely as much on a tuned load. So essentially, I keep my reloader and components handy for the bad times and enjoy the good times when I can buy factory for about the same price as I can make it if that makes sense.

Is this a farily common problem with the 929 platform? I have two of them and am reatively new to revolver shooting. I am trying to learn as much as I can about them but am having some noob type things creep up on me during matches (front screw that holds the iron sights on coming loose and throwing off my zero, screw underneath my Hogue grip lossening up, strain screw walking itself out, etc.)