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Does this look like the right amount of crimp for a revolver, to you guys?


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It looks a little "light" to me for a revolver load, but....


The final end all/be all answer will be this:  Measure your cartridge's OAL.  (To be more-exact, measure the actual cartridge that will be in the last charge hole, just for consistency.)  Load up a cylinder full.  Shoot all but one.  Re-measure the OAL of that remaining cartridge.  Did it move? 

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9 minutes ago, Carmoney said:

Yeah......are you worried about them coming apart?  There can be issues with plated bullets not responding well to heavy crimp, but coated bullets should be no problem.  



Thanks !!

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I use a taper crimp and very little.  After reloading for revolvers only for 35 years and 141,875 38 short, 38 long, 38 special and 357 magnum loaded.  Less crimp is also better than more.  To get your rounds to come out enough to stop the cylinder from turning takes some serious recoil.  I have tried doing it and if your brass is sized properly, flair done right and bullets seated properly it's hard to achieve.


Start with a light crimp and on those Red Bullets; I would use a 9mm taper, 38/357 Redding (best one) or 38/357 Lee taper crimp die.


The only exception is my lever guns if I am going to use the tube magazine.

I use a roll or heavier crimp. But the bullets are made for the crimp.


These are the 357 bullets I load.



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Yes, I'm loading .38 Short Colt with a .38 special sizing die, then a Dillon expander, then a Lee 9mm seating die, and a Lee 9mm taper crimp die.


You can't use .38 special dies to load .38 short colt, they're too short.

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