Silicon carbide grip, how to tone down or remove?

[Twilk73]

Gun pic

 

I recently started to modify a pistol for competition. After removing grip checking I epoxied and added 60 grit silicon carbide. It looks great but while dryfire practicing with it I noticed the extra grip is not so good in some areas where I want my fingers to slide. Also I added this 60 grit to the bottom of the trigger guard for my support hands and it just shredded my pointer finger. 
 

so how do I tone it down successfully, remove it in some areas or just remove it completely and start over? 
 

The 60 grit feels nice, my hands are calloused from being a mechanic, but it only took a few draws before my pointer finger was raw. I haven’t even shot this live yet so I’m thinking this might have been a big mistake or a learning moment lol.

Edited July 14, 2022 by Twilk73

[Can]

Use sandpaper to take the sharpness off the areas that bother you.  

[jim vaughan]

Gently tap the unwanted area with a small hammer. This blunts the sharp edges.

[Twilk73]

3 hours ago, jim vaughan said:

Gently tap the unwanted area with a small hammer. This blunts the sharp edges.

This was what I ended up doing and it worked. 
 

Is there anyway to remove it completely to redo it. 
 

it came out great looking but now that it’s done I realize the pattern could be improved. 

[Flea]

On 7/13/2022 at 9:49 PM, Twilk73 said:

Gun pic

 

I recently started to modify a pistol for competition. After removing grip checking I epoxied and added 60 grit silicon carbide. It looks great but while dryfire practicing with it I noticed the extra grip is not so good in some areas where I want my fingers to slide. Also I added this 60 grit to the bottom of the trigger guard for my support hands and it just shredded my pointer finger. 
 

so how do I tone it down successfully, remove it in some areas or just remove it completely and start over? 
 

The 60 grit feels nice, my hands are calloused from being a mechanic, but it only took a few draws before my pointer finger was raw. I haven’t even shot this live yet so I’m thinking this might have been a big mistake or a learning moment lol.

 

Where did you get 60 grit SC? Thanks

I'm also interested in how one goes about sanding off old SC to put on a fresh batch of SC. I don't use a Dremel much. The sanding wheels don't seem robust enough to remove old SC.

Edited July 15, 2022 by Flea

[Racinready300ex]

You might be able to find something to soften the epoxy like denatured alcohol or something. 

 

I had one I did with JB weld, that s#!t's on there. I used a dremel and grinding stones to get it off. I went through several grinding stones before I finished. 

[yigal]

I decided not to invest too much in this work. I just throw the old grip  in the trash and take a new one. .

[Twilk73]

8 hours ago, Flea said:

 

Where did you get 60 grit SC? Thanks

I'm also interested in how one goes about sanding off old SC to put on a fresh batch of SC. I don't use a Dremel much. The sanding wheels don't seem robust enough to remove old SC.

I bought it here. They sell it by the pound. They have several different grits. 
 

https://cuttingedgesupply.store/products/silicon-carbide-tumbler-media

[Johnny_Chimpo]

Diamond tile bits and diamond files make fast work of removing silicon carbide.

[dansedgli]

I've gotten it off with heat from a hair dryer before. Warm it up and it just peels off. 

 

[Johnny_Chimpo]

On 7/20/2022 at 7:31 AM, dansedgli said:

I've gotten it off with heat from a hair dryer before. Warm it up and it just peels off. 

 

 

What kind of epoxy did you use that a hair dryer softens it?

[dansedgli]

Here it is called Araldyte. It's a 2 part epoxy but isn't like jb weld. 

 

I went too thick with tungsten on a sig x5 grip and was able to peel it all off. It was only on for a day though, that might have helped. 

 

 

[Johnny_Chimpo]

13 hours ago, dansedgli said:

Here it is called Araldyte. It's a 2 part epoxy but isn't like jb weld. 

 

I went too thick with tungsten on a sig x5 grip and was able to peel it all off. It was only on for a day though, that might have helped. 

 

 

 

Interesting.  I've never seen a 2 part epoxy with a curing time so long that you could mildly heat it a day after application and pull it off.  That could be handy.

[dansedgli]

I think I might have swapped it to 5 minute stuff now that I think about it. The tungsten balls wouldn't stay in position. I did 3 layers and it was far too fat so I wen't back to 2. 

 

It's this stuff anyway. 

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=araldite&sort=BoostOrder&page=1