midatlantic Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Hi, I installed a Miculek main spring and his trigger rebound spring in a 929. The double action and single action are light and will set off even CCI primers. Problem is the trigger reset is now bumpy and slow. It's sort of feels like it's a two-stage reset. I'm new to revolvers and I'm not sure what's going on. I haven't stoned any of the parts and other than installing a new fiber optic front sight haven't done any other work. Anyone have thoughts? Right now I'm going to return to the original factory rebound spring. I've seen other posts that say the main spring and rebound spring should be "balanced". So will using the middle of spring in the factory rebound cause a problem? But biggest issue is the slow and draggy reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Bless your heart..... If you're still able to set off CCI primers your trigger is not light. Just wait till you get it down to proper weights! Sounds like you'd benefit from a reputable gunsmith to work of your parts. It makes a world of difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 My story and I am sticking to it is that I once got a beautiful trigger job from Randy Lee. 5 and one half pounds/Federal primers carefully loaded. The problem for me was the weak return. I was informed that that is the price of a super light trigger. That the faster shooters released the trigger rather than riding the return. I could never get the hang of that so the trigger job was lost on me. My problem. The balance between a light pull and the return is a matter for experiment and will be slightly different for every gun. Have fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBurgess Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 there is a delicate balance between the hammer and rebound springs, the lower the hammer spring tension the better the rebound with any given rebound spring weight. the easiest way to tune things is to take the gun to the range and take the grip off and back out the strain screw some then test fire a full moonclip of your ammo. if they all go off back it out a little more and try again till you start having light strikes. once you find that point where you just set off all the rounds turn the screw in 1/4 and see how the trigger feels. if you like the reset then you are good to either shorten and locktite or just locktite the screw in place (yes that means turn it all the way in and figure out how many turns out it is so you can clean it locktite it and put it back in the same spot or know how much to shorten it) if you still don't like the reset feel you can go to a heavier rebound spring, wolff sells them in several weights and I believe they have a 3 spring pack so you can try several to see what you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 (edited) The main thing you can do to get the lightest good rebound is to radius and polish the 2 mating corners where the rebound slide pushes the hammer when it goes forward. One corner is on the hammer, one on the rebound slide. Once they both have a generous radius and are polished, oil them. You can then use the lightest rebound spring that you like the way it works. I would get the Wolff springs in 11 to 14 pounds. Most people will end up with a 12 or 13, some will use the 11. The picture above shows the 2 corners to radius and polish for a better return with a light spring. The picture above shows a radiused trigger and the top corner that eats your finger if left sharp. This trigger is comfortable to use all day. Also other views of the radius on rebound slide and hammer. I do the radius and polish in about a minute each on rebound and hammer and about 5 minutes on the trigger with a Scotchbrite wheel. These are not as clear as I would like, but it's the best I could get with a cell phone. Edited December 11, 2020 by Toolguy add photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midatlantic Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 got to make sure I id the correct two corners before I radius. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tampa-XD45 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 22 hours ago, Toolguy said: The main thing you can do to get the lightest good rebound is to radius and polish the 2 mating corners where the rebound slide pushes the hammer when it goes forward. One corner is on the hammer, one on the rebound slide. Once they both have a generous radius and are polished, oil them. You can then use the lightest rebound spring that you like the way it works. I would get the Wolff springs in 11 to 14 pounds. Most people will end up with a 12 or 13, some will use the 11. Warren - Can you post a picture of the generous radius done correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 JM made a very good DVD on doing an action job. Here's a few sites that might help https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-norton-ext_onb&hsimp=yhs-ext_onb&hspart=norton&p=miculek+revolver+action+job#id=2&vid=1ac5a8a7b5b012b6374193f2e3c32263&action=click Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midatlantic Posted December 11, 2020 Author Share Posted December 11, 2020 (edited) Tool guy - Thanks very much for the photos! Now I get it. I've just ordered the video, but the photos give me a good start. Appreciate it. It looks like you're changed to real metal for the trigger. Looks like same for hammer and rebound slide? Edited December 11, 2020 by midatlantic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 (edited) Those are old parts from the parts bin. The hammer is MIM, the trigger and rebound slide are forged. The same thing works for both new and old parts, forged or MIM. I have found it's best not to mix the old and new in one gun. They don't always play well together. The pics were just random parts that showed what I wanted to show. Edited December 13, 2020 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 I have the full vcr tape of the full trigger job. Only problem is most people don’t have a VCR. Oh yea it is jerry himself. Shows which part to stone and which part not to stone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midatlantic Posted December 13, 2020 Author Share Posted December 13, 2020 Tool guy - thanks again. Went ahead and polished the two corners, and the bottom of the rebound slide, and the Miculek rebound spring now works pretty well. No more hanging up and is even a bit smoother than w the factory spring. Noticed the frame on which the rebound slide travels is machined so that the foreword half is higher than the rear, forward being the muzzle end. It’s the same as in illustrations in the 5th edition manual. Anyone know why? To shed debris? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 I suspect it is lower at the rear below the rebound slide to reduce friction and eliminate any binding with the rebound frame pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now