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Recommended Fo Sight Combination For 625?


AustinMike

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I'm looking at replacing the sights on my 5" 625-3 Model of 1989. I'm kind of confused about what size (height) to get. The current front blade (which I assume is factory) is about .270" high and .125" wide. The rear seems to be somewhere around .370" high (also factory, adustable.) The rear notch is .125" wide.

I'm wanting to go with SDM fiber optic front, as I'm enjoying the fiber optic sights I've installed on my semi-autos. I think the .250" high would work with the factory rear. The .300" would probably be too tall, unless I replaced the rear. Is it worth replacing the factory rear sights for Millet? If so, what is the recommended SDM/Millet combination with a 5" barrel? (.300" front and .410" rear? .250" front and .360" rear? none of the above?)

I did some searching out here, but I remain confused. :wacko:

Thanks in advance!

-Mike

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Is it worth replacing the factory rear sights for Millet? If so, what is the recommended SDM/Millet combination with a 5" barrel?

Hey Mike,

The Millett rear sight assembly is absolutely worth the investment--better by far than the factory unit or the aluminum Weigand replacement blade. Go with the .360" Millett and the .300" SDM f/o up front.

Mike

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Go with the .360" Millett and the .300" SDM f/o up front.

One thing I forgot to mention. I do prefer to aim at the 6 o'clock position on the target (pumpkin on a post view.) Would the .360" rear blade work with the tall .300" front without having to crank the elevation near max? Just want to make sure I've got enough wiggle room.

Thanks!

-Mike

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A-Mike,

I recently changed over to the combo that Carmoney mentions. Millet .360 rear with a .300 FO front by EGW (very similar to the SDM but a little shorter in length). Either will do fine.

<Excuse mode on>

I could have whupped Carmoney at the Fall Classic last week if I had them on sooner.

Right Carmoney !!!!! :D:lol:

Dan......

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Would the .360" rear blade work with the tall .300" front without having to crank the elevation near max? Just want to make sure I've got enough wiggle room.

Mike, you'll be OK with that combination. I use a "center hold" rather than "6 o'clock" but I generally have my gun sighted so it shoots an inch or so high at 15 yards (old habit from my pin-shooting days), so it's probably not very different from your own preference. The rear sight on my 625 is pretty close to the middle of the elevation range, plenty of adjustment available both up and down.

By the way, I'd recommend you give your business to Brownells. They've been very generous to our prize tables this season.

I could have whupped Carmoney at the Fall Classic last week if I had them on sooner.

Right Carmoney !!!!! :D:lol:

Yeah, 'cause I've really been keeping that Millett sight thing my own special little secret......

:rolleyes:

:D

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Thanks for the recommendation, ya'll! I'm going to have to go make sure where the gun is hitting for sanity before I order. With the .270" front post and the ~.370" rear (kind of hard to measure on the gun), I've got the rear dialed up a good ways. From the bottom of the frame notch to the top of the rear blade is about .400", so about .030" elevation added. That would seem to indicate that I'd need to have a blade that would reach .430" from frame to top of blade if the front sight increased to .300". With a .360" blade, that would be an additional increase of about .040" (about .070") in elevation from where I'm at now, assuming that's what it takes. That seems like a lot (of course, it's getting late and I'm bad enough at math when I'm not tired - this hurts!)

I only shot this gun a few times after I bought it (caught a deal too good to pass up) and set it aside until I had time\money to work with it, so another trip to the range may be in order before I get the sights ordered, just to be sure where its hitting.

Thanks,

Mike

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Sounds like a plan.

With my old eyes getting fuzzy, I filed one of the FO fronts down to .110" and it seems quite a bit easier to see. Would like to find some already done at .100". Tried that size on a Limited gun and they felt great. The fuzziness of the front sight didn't matter.

Dave

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Is it worth replacing the factory rear sights for Millet? If so, what is the recommended SDM/Millet combination with a 5" barrel?

Hey Mike,

The Millett rear sight assembly is absolutely worth the investment--better by far than the factory unit or the aluminum Weigand replacement blade. Go with the .360" Millett and the .300" SDM f/o up front.

Mike

.300 SDM front sight??? Isn't that a gold bead sight? Thought you didn't like a gold bead. BTW the factory front blade height is .278".

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Scott at SDM informed me that the Millet actually sits about .050" higher than the factory rear. It's all making sense now.

[Foghorn Leghorn voice on] I knew, I say I knew, something wasn't addin' up! [Foghorn Leghorn voice off] :lol:

I put my slide rule away and I've got an order in for the .360"\.300" combination! Thanks again, ya'll!

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That's weird I did a search at Brownells on SDM, fiber optic sight and came up with Hi Vis. I've been giving a fiber optic more thought lately but need to finish out the year fefore switching over. Match time isn't the right time for new equipment :D .

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By the way, I have nothing at all against gold beads.....just happen to like fiber-optic and plain black a little better.

It seems Jerry does too. Looking at the picture Pat took of Jerry at the World Shoot in the latest Front Sight Jerry's using the same gun he used at the Nationals. This makes sense as he already knows how this gun works. Reg'lar 'ole 5" 625 with a FO front sight, MIM guts with the lock removed, worked over by Clark Custom and wielded by a dude who's "mashed a few triggers in his day."

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  • 1 month later...

Got them sights in and installed finally. I love them! I had a blast trying them out last weekend. Thanks ya'll!

Here she is all decked out with the new sights, Miculek grips, and a trigger job. I hope to be practiced up and ready to compete with it the first of the year!

SW625_thumb.JPG

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Mike -- looks great, man!

That set-up can take you anywhere you want to go in the Revo division. As that trigger job smooths itself in, and the DA muscles in your shooting arm get toned up, it will all just keep getting better and better!

Whatta ya got for a holster and stuff?

Edited by Carmoney
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Whatta ya got for a holster and stuff?

I got a Blade Tech Dropped and Offset holster, but I don't know if I like it or not. I've been using a Kydex Uncle Mike's with my 1911 and Glocks, which works fine. Being new to the sport and experimenting with different guns to see what I like best, I didn't want to drop $150 or so on each holster! The Blade Tech looked like a comparable solution for the revolver, but I think it's going to need some work. I don't like the DAO belt bracket, so I'm going to swap it for the regular one. The gun fits too tight even after loosening the screws. It looks like I'm going to have to attack it with a Dremel and get rid of excess Kydex. Or sell it on ebay and get a CR Speed holster.

My belt is a CR Speed and I've got the California Competition moon clips holders, plus lots of Ranch moon clips. I've got an I-Shot Tournament bag with two of their nifty moon clip panels.

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Cliff is using a Blade-Tech kydex rig of some sort.....I use a CR Speed and like it a lot, although I'm not sure my draw is all that much faster than it was from my old Safariland 002.

Before you attack your rig with the Dremel, get out your hairdryer first and use heat to re-shape the kydex. I've done this to adjust Blade-Tech stuff with excellent results.

Draw speed is probably a little overrated in IPSC shooting--remember that you're never going to draw the gun more than once per stage--while you might be reloading a wheelgun 5 or 6 times! Plus most of the bigger matches will have several stages where you start with the gun out of the holster anyway. In steel shooting, the draw becomes much more important, simply because you have to draw the gun so many more times during the match!

(By the way, I use a Kydex Uncle Mike's rig for my 1911 single-stacks also, what a great holster for $15!!)

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Got them sights in and installed finally. I love them! I had a blast trying them out last weekend. Thanks ya'll!

Here she is all decked out with the new sights, Miculek grips, and a trigger job. I hope to be practiced up and ready to compete with it the first of the year!

SW625_thumb.JPG

Those sights look nice. Does the SDM fron sight just drop right in? It looks like all that's needed is to push out the pin, switch sights and put the pin back. Is it really that easy? Do you have to drill a hole in the sight or is it already there? I have a brand new 625-8 that I want to install them in.

Thanks,

-Cuz

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Does the SDM front sight just drop right in?

On my 625-3, the front sight is pinned in and the SDM has to be drilled. It has to be drilled from both sides and it sounded like more than my club-fisted self could handle, so my gunsmith did that for me. He did have to do some additional fitting to get mine in too. If your model is the interchangeable variety, it *should* be a simple drop in.

Here's the link to SDM's site: SDM Sights Give 'em a shout and I'm sure they can help you out.

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The Millett rear sight assembly is absolutely worth the investment--better by far than the factory unit or the aluminum Weigand replacement blade. Go with the .360" Millett and the .300" SDM f/o up front.

Mike

Will the Millett .360 work with the factory front site on a new model 625? I'd like to put the Millett rear site on now and change the front site down the road.

Thanks,

-Cuz.

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Cuz, I think it will be just fine.....order from Brownells and keep your receipt in case it doesn't dial in and you need to trade it for the .312. I know I've used the .360 with factory front on a couple revos over the years, can't quite remember which guns and which bullet weights, though....

Edited by Carmoney
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