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Round Nose 40 Bullets, Heavier Better


mcb

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I'm looking for a good bullet to load for my Smith and Wesson 610. I want a round nose or similar shaped bullet, no flat points. The only one I can find is Berry's plated and the heaviest they sell is 165 grains. I would like to find a round nose 180 or possible a 200 grain bullet. I have also been having problems with the plating coming off Berry's in my XD so I am switching to Montana Gold 180gr CMJ bullets for my XD but I need a round nose for my 610. I'm not having much luck so any suggestion for a good bullet to reload for my 610 would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

mcb

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I've had some reloading luck with Westcoast's 40/10mm bullets in 200 grn, they

make (or made) a 220 grn also. There truncated not round nose but do work well.

As a side note, I guess they are now called X-treme Bullet, the Accura-bullet

thing didn't workout I guess, here's a web address and phone number.

http://www.westcoastbullet.net

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If you don't mind shooting lead, Lasercast makes a 1911 style round nose lead that weighs in at 185 gr. Bear creak makes a 140 gr moly coated round nose that I've played with in the past (and have another K I may start using in my Sig for Prod soon). I have also shot the RN-FP's in 40/10 mm and they drop in pretty good. I had some qc problems with the last batch of West coast 180's. If you pushed them much over 950 fps, the group opened up considerably but I'm using the last of my stock in my Sig 229 at about 750 fps and they shoot well at that velocity (PF ~135). At one point, I found some 155 gr rnl bullet made by a company called Red Line, I've not seen them in some time though and I don't know where to get more.

Those are the ones I know.. I'm sure a few more people will give some more info.

Vince

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I would recommend looking at Precision Delta 180's they are very round and shoot very well. Also a good price. $62.50 to your door per 1000.

The Precision Delta 40 180 is best described as a flat tip round nose. There is avery small flat tip. If you are looking for a jacketed 40 round that will drop into the revolver cylinder nicely, this may do the trick. You would have to be *way* off on your load for the tiny flat tips to be an issue.

Edited by Rob Boudrie
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As usually lot of great info. Thanks guys. I will have to give a few of these bullet manufactures a try.

How do you guys like lead bullet in you double action revolvers. I had bought a bunch of re-manufactured 38 Special 158 grain lead SWC for my Ruger Blackhawk 357. They were not real accurate and leaded up the cylinder end of the barrel real bad. I have had to use and old 410 brush to get the lead out.

Is there ways to reduce the leading? Do the larger calibers like 40 and 45 have less of a problem with leading. I like the idea of using the less expensive lead bullets but given my previous experience in my Blackhawk I and apprehensive to try.

Thanks again

mcb

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As usually lot of great info.  Thanks guys.  I will have to give a few of these bullet manufactures a try.

How do you guys like lead bullet in you double action revolvers.  I had bought a bunch of re-manufactured 38 Special 158 grain lead SWC for my Ruger Blackhawk 357.  They were not real accurate and leaded up the cylinder end of the barrel real bad.  I have had to use and old 410 brush to get the lead out.

Is there ways to reduce the leading?  Do the larger calibers like 40 and 45 have less of a problem with leading.  I like the idea of using the less expensive lead bullets but given my previous experience in my Blackhawk I and apprehensive to try.

Thanks again

mcb

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As usually lot of great info.  Thanks guys.  I will have to give a few of these bullet manufactures a try.

How do you guys like lead bullet in you double action revolvers.  I had bought a bunch of re-manufactured 38 Special 158 grain lead SWC for my Ruger Blackhawk 357.  They were not real accurate and leaded up the cylinder end of the barrel real bad.  I have had to use and old 410 brush to get the lead out.

Is there ways to reduce the leading?  Do the larger calibers like 40 and 45 have less of a problem with leading.  I like the idea of using the less expensive lead bullets but given my previous experience in my Blackhawk I and apprehensive to try.

Thanks again

mcb

I shoot a 205 Gr. RN cast out of my 610 & it works great. I make them using a Magma mold but you can buy them from Cheycast bullets in Cheyenne, Wyoming. My 610 has the 6 1/2" barrel & I use 3.7 grs. of WST, easily making PF, haven't cronographed it in my 4" gun but it would probably get there too.

I use wheelweight alloy to make them, never a leading problem. Some of the lead SWC stuff is swaged, not cast and it can lead, also some (most) commerical cast is extremely hard & if your load is mild the bullet might not "slug up" to get a good gas seal, causing gas cutting just forward of the forcing cone.

Dick A48544

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How do you guys like lead bullet in you double action revolvers. I had bought a bunch of re-manufactured 38 Special 158 grain lead SWC for my Ruger Blackhawk 357. They were not real accurate and leaded up the cylinder end of the barrel real bad. I have had to use and old 410 brush to get the lead out.

Is there ways to reduce the leading? Do the larger calibers like 40 and 45 have less of a problem with leading. I like the idea of using the less expensive lead bullets but given my previous experience in my Blackhawk I and apprehensive to try.

Hard cast bullets and low pressure loads will leave lots of lead in the barrel unless everything is just right. If you'll be shooting Major loads, you shouldn't have any problems. I shoot 158 grain RNLs at 1100+ fps from my .357 Magnums with no problems.
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Berry's list a 180 RN, but no pix.

I've tried both Precision and MasterBlaster Moly Bullets in .40 (1911) and in 44 and 45 with Revolvers.

In an auto they're great, in a Revolver (PC625 & 29) they leave a hard to clean coating I don't like.

Use National 240 Lead RN for my M29 .44 in Russian cases, they lead but it's never been a problem(I feel your pain at not finding RN bullets in .40 as it's the same with .44, has to do with Lever Action Rifles and Cowboy Shooting I think).

I Taylor Throated both Revolvers, it helped the 625 but didn't make as big a difference on the 29.

Use the Laser .40 185 LRN SWC in a 1911, it's a very accurate bullet. Definitely try some in your 610. The shoulder isn't really one, but it is enough to cut a little better hole in targets.

I shot IPSC with the above .44 with lead for about 2 years pretty heavy and it never caused problems. Ran a big bore brush through the cylinders after every session. Actually had more problems with Titegroup in the 625. Left a hard coating that would drag on the case rims and ratchet. Real tough to clean off too. Clays doesn't have that problem. It was so bad that I thought I had a bunch of bent clips. Titegroup doesn't seem to "Stick" to the Blued M29 though.

Best idea is to get a Lewis (Hoppes) Lead Remover, you'll need it for the forcing cone. Then just clean, clean, clean.

Dave

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Thanks guy, Since I am already using Berry's I am going to give a box of the 180 RN a try first but I am going to try a few others suggest here when I get some time.

Thanks

mcb

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