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Need help knocking burrs off outside of 9mm cases during resizing


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In case I missed it are you Lubing?
 
To eliminate the burr as the underlying cause. Could you try and gently take it off with a deburring tool(you still want the case to have a square top and not be chaferred).  If you just do 100 or so and load em up and test them.  I dont believe that can be causing your problem but I could be wrong.
 
A lot of other good ideas have been stated. Clean/oil dies is an important thing to do every so often. If you clean and debur and still have an issue I would try a larger flare or possibly a complete new set of dies.

I lube before I resize/deprime, then remove the lube with walnut media before actual loading.

Yes, I have a lot of cases where I took a debur tool to the brass and it took my failure rate from the 10-15% down to 1-2%, but deburring pistol cases like that is just the absolute biggest pia, so I’m looking for a different solution because there’s no way I can continue to deburr cases for every case I load.

On a side note, the cases that I did deburr, then shot and picked up, they did not have a burr on the rim. They haven’t been processed yet, but when I picked them up at the range, there was no burr.


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I would give lubing for loading a shot. some one-shot may help. again just try it with a 100 and test em.

 

A rag will take off the lube or you could tumble in corn for 20 minutes after they are loaded.

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I would give lubing for loading a shot. some one-shot may help. again just try it with a 100 and test em.
 
A rag will take off the lube or you could tumble in corn for 20 minutes after they are loaded.

Interesting thought. The only reason I don’t leave lube on my cases when I go to load is because I hate when my powder sticks to side of the cases when I go to check the powder charge. Does the one-shot have this problem, is it better than a lanolin based lube? I have a small can of one shot I could try


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1 hour ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:

One thing I was thinking about last night after I finished tinkering, would backing the lee die off a little bit to reduce the indent in the coating, but keeping it so that it scraps a little brass off be beneficial? I started thinking that it would basically be the same as putting a slight deburr on the case, and might actually be exactly what I’m looking for. Or do you think there’s something else going on that I’m still missing? Thoughts?

I remember now that I originally stopped using the lee as I was getting a small build up of brass shavings on my shell plate, and that’s when I moved to the Hornady. I was still having some problems before I made that switch though


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My Dillon die also produces shavings from the case mouth but mostly on new or once fired brass. After the brass has been loaded a few times the brass shaving problem virtually disappears. I say deal with the shavings if that's what it takes to produce reliable ammo.

Edited by 4n2t0
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Good morning!

 

Read through again and I am starting to think your issues are from two areas. The whole bur thing seems a bit strange so this AM I grabbed some range brass pre-processed from both my gun and pick-up (unknown gun).

 

The three on the right are my TF S2  gun and an un-shot load (which was picked up after ejected during unload). The left are from someones gun. I only noticed a very slight bur.

 

IMG_3559@0_25x.jpg.d83c3c7d325609b2d0e7bbb130fe699d.jpg

 

Here are three processed and cleaned casing ready to be reloaded. I don't see any burs or any significant marks from the sizing die.

 

IMG_3561@0_25x.thumb.jpg.6a70a597d5c3cc9472ba0b9e838d43f1.jpg

 

I personally don't think lube or more crimp is your issue. Of course my opinion doesn't really matter, but I think you issues are a combo of bullet size, length and diameter, range brass variety and the crimp die taper is shorter/quicker. I would recommend changing bullets to .356 or to a different OGIVE. If you're set on staying with coated and 147 I find these work best in all our 9mms.

 

http://www.acmebullet.com/bullets-reloading-brass/9MM-Lead-Cast-Reloading-Bullets/9mm-147-FP-NLG-Coated

https://precisionbullets.com/product/9mm-147-fp/ (these come in 125 and 115 grains)

https://www.snscasting.com/new-9mm-147-grain-flat-point-red-coated-500ct/

They are all the same profile (flat point not truncated cone), load longer and therefore not as deep (bulge issues) into the case.

 

I use these for FMJ:

https://www.precisiondelta.com/products/9mm-147gr-fmj/

 

I also have had great success with these, but chose to stick with 147s and the profile loads longer than other JHP:

https://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/handgun-bullets/9mm-124gr-jhp-rn-v2.html

 

 

I also found this crimp die has the smoothest and most gradual taper:

https://www.dillonprecision.com/crimp-dies_8_4_24483.html

 

After much trial, error and frustration this is what works for me. Using range pick up brass I have less than a 1% failure rate for any reason after reloading. I hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

Edited by HesedTech
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Are these the same bullet? Seems like the crimp mark would put that bullet way outside the case. 

 

Have you tried a 124 bullet? It may not be the burr on your case causing you to fail the gauge.

 

case2.jpg

bulleta.jpg

Edited by zombywoof
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Are these the same bullet? Seems like the crimp mark would put that bullet way outside the case. 
 
Have you tried a 124 bullet? It may not be the burr on your case causing you to fail the gauge.
279fc722e2362be3d413a7e189830c6e.webp c632e0e56abd80cbd00b4f186ab028bc.webp

It may just be that I’m on mobile, but neither of those attachments came through on my end. If they were some of the pictures I posted last night, and the bullets are green, those were all the same 147gr Brazos bullets


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