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Anyone experimented with the crimp tightness on a 9mm


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I normally just try to experiment and find out myself but that does not always work so wanted to ask this time.

I'm loading a 9mm 147 Gr zero hp with 3.3 to 3.4 grains of Hodgdon universal clay's @ 1.100 oal  and 0.377 and going to try 0.380.

Loaded up 16 and they all fit in barrel and dillon case gauge but sit up some in the EGW case gauge. I realize the EGW is tight and the dillon might have a little give so before I go out and test these kinda wanted some of you guys experience to see if I'm wasting my time. When I shoot rifle I see the difference with crimp and not sure that applies with pistols but what do it know.

TIA 

Edited by chopps
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Currently loading BBI 125s at 1.100, mixed brass, crimp avg is .3765 (IIRC)  Since mixed brass, this varies, but seems to average out.  Been my target crimp for every type of bullet I have loaded for 9mm, including Zero RN 124s.   The EGW gauge is a little tight.  The crimp is supposed to be just a taper crimp, just enough to remove the bell.  I like to see a very faint white line on the edge of the case mouth.  Loading pistols and rifles aint the same - obviously.  Pistol bullets use next tension and not crimp to prevent setback.  Just make sure they plunk fine in your barrel, then go shoot them. 

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I bet you'll find that the 0.377" is better than the 0.380".

 

Matter of fact, the 0.380" may not chamber.

 

Too much crimp - poor accuracy;

 

Too little crimp - FTF.

 

If you're not having any trouble at 0.377" (and I gather you're

not), I'd leave it alone.

 

BUT, be interested in your conclusion if you try it.

 

As everyone has mentioned, you really don't "crimp" a 9mm,

just remove the belling so it's straight.  Neck tension holds

the bullet in place.     :) 

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1 hour ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

I bet you'll find that the 0.377" is better than the 0.380".

 

Matter of fact, the 0.380" may not chamber.

 

Too much crimp - poor accuracy;

 

Too little crimp - FTF.

 

If you're not having any trouble at 0.377" (and I gather you're

not), I'd leave it alone.

 

BUT, be interested in your conclusion if you try it.

 

As everyone has mentioned, you really don't "crimp" a 9mm,

just remove the belling so it's straight.  Neck tension holds

the bullet in place.     :) 

That's what I am trying to accomplish is to make it strait with no crimp. I'll also put my V3 magneto speed on it to check speeds for shits and giggles.

It will work/fit in my barrel and dillon chamber checker but sits a little high in my egw chamber checker.

Guess i'll find out in a week or so. I think one of my problems was my data was out dated and my oal was short by 0.25 thousands or more and to close to top of powder charge on this particular load and maybe that was part of my problem.

Been focused on rifle for a few years and neglected my pistol loads so basically F****d up all on my own. Bah perfect storm I created.

Edited by chopps
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Measure your bullet diameter .355 lets say, then take the brass you use after resizing and measure its thickness at the lip .011 lets say, so .355 + .022 (both sides) = .377  this is roughly your minimum to avoid resizing the bullet. Making .377 a pretty good number for this brass bullet combination but you wouldn't want much more than that, or less. Measure your components usually works out really well, mixed brass can make this tricky, figure out which ones are thickest or sort your brass.

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12 hours ago, inertia said:

Measure your bullet diameter .355 lets say, then take the brass you use after resizing and measure its thickness at the lip .011 lets say, so .355 + .022 (both sides) = .377  this is roughly your minimum to avoid resizing the bullet. Making .377 a pretty good number for this brass bullet combination but you wouldn't want much more than that, or less. Measure your components usually works out really well, mixed brass can make this tricky, figure out which ones are thickest or sort your brass.

 

Thank you 

Now I can be exact

 

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