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CZ p10 F for IPSC/USPSA?


bimmer1980

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On 1/30/2019 at 5:49 PM, Dirty_J said:

I grabbed an F last week. It's just okay.... at least with the Blazer brass 124 I ran through it. Snappy. Recoil spring is too damn heavy

 

Will hit the range again with my 130PF production load to see how it feels; but until someone offers a guide rod and spring, I don't think this one will get much play from me. 

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't a spring that's TOO LIGHT cause more felt recoil as the slide slams to the rear of travel at higher speeds?

 

Wouldn't a heavier recoil spring that decelerates nearly all of the slides velocity before it bottoms out a the back have a softer feel?

I'm just basing this off of tuning AR's where you ideally want a heavy enough buffer and heavy enough spring that the the carrier just barely kisses the back of travel before moving back forward.

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38 minutes ago, chopper556 said:

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't a spring that's TOO LIGHT cause more felt recoil as the slide slams to the rear of travel at higher speeds?

 

 

The issue with too heavy of a recoil spring is that the slide stops in battery with too much force, driving the muzzle down.  That's not an issue with a rifle, because of the proximity of your support hand to the muzzle.

 

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My CO P-10F

 

Trigger is stock and I see no need to mess with it.  OEM recoil spring guide machined to remove front lip, with a ISMI Glock 17 13 lb recoil spring.  Maybe G17 round wire springs don't work, but contrary to what some here have said, Glock 17 flat wire springs DO NOT go solid in a P-10F.  My slide's travel is unaffected and reliability is 100% with 130 PF loads using both 115 and 147 grain bullets.

 

Really other than the recoil spring and the stippling, the gun is bone stock.  Since that pic was taken I've sanded the stippling off the sides of the grip and laid down 60/90 grit silicon carbide over JB Weld.

 

Because I've had presbyopia for nearly 10 years, I've developed a really good index out of the holster.  That index ability made transitioning to an RDS painless as I never experienced the "can't find the dot" problem.

 

1040092432_p-10optics1resized.jpg.abe6480bd4c1ef4b716ef3eeb27a805b.jpg

Edited by SGT_Schultz
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59 minutes ago, SGT_Schultz said:

My CO P-10F

 

Trigger is stock and I see no need to mess with it.  OEM recoil spring guide machined to remove front lip, with a ISMI Glock 17 13 lb recoil spring.  Maybe G17 round wire springs don't work, but contrary to what some here have said, Glock 17 flat wire springs DO NOT go solid in a P-10F.  My slide's travel is unaffected and reliability is 100% with 130 PF loads using both 115 and 147 grain bullets.

 

Really other than the recoil spring and the stippling, the gun is bone stock.  Since that pic was taken I've sanded the stippling off the sides of the grip and laid down 60/90 grit silicon carbide over JB Weld.

 

Because I've had presbyopia for nearly 10 years, I've developed a really good index out of the holster.  That index ability made transitioning to an RDS painless as I never experienced the "can't find the dot" problem.

 

1040092432_p-10optics1resized.jpg.abe6480bd4c1ef4b716ef3eeb27a805b.jpg

Would like to see a pic of the silicon carbide grit job you did. I’m thinking of doing this myself. Do you think the 60/90 grit is course enough and did you use the JB weld liquid epoxy or the paste that turns into steel almost? Thanks

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I'll get some pics tomorrow of the gun and of the epoxy I used.

 

This is my first carbide grip job, but I think I could have gone even rougher for a competition gun.  60/90 is pretty grippy but still mild enough that I could carry the gun all day.  I will say this: 60/90 is rough enough that the gun will not move in my hands if I clamp down on it with 75% of the force that I used to use when it was stippled.

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On 10/21/2019 at 4:07 PM, Sheepman223 said:

Anyone tried running one of the lasermax G17 laser guide rods in a P10C? 

Not sure a laser under the barrel is allowed.  Flashlights are forbidden and there's very specific rules on where the electronic site can be mounted. 

 

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20 hours ago, Superpipe9 said:

Would like to see a pic of the silicon carbide grit job you did. I’m thinking of doing this myself. Do you think the 60/90 grit is course enough and did you use the JB weld liquid epoxy or the paste that turns into steel almost? Thanks

 

Here you go, right side1233027289_P-10carbide.jpg.4a5d5cdbbb276b3005986ee78e3ca95a.jpg

 

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Left side.  The white stuff is skin from my left hand.  I used JB Weld steel reinforced epoxy because that's what I have on my workbench.  The exact epoxy matters a whole lot less than proper surface preparation, mixing, masking, and application.  Plenty of youtube tutorials on how to sprinkle the grit.  I used blue 3M painters tape for the edges and silly putty around the mag release.  Not pretty, but works very well.

 

1453604828_P-10carbide1.jpg.2eadc999e6c16a2dbee646f9334a76c0.jpg

 

Edited by SGT_Schultz
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I noticed that CZ had the their co-witness sites and RMR/Holosun adapter back in stock last week.  Came home today to find a CZ bundle of joy on my porch.  Installed the new sites (originals were NS front and standard [no dot] rear) tonight and planning to try them out with my HS 507C tomorrow.  I know some folks don't believe that co-witness should be used with USPSA toys, but I needed to find out for myself. 

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Tested out the co-witness setup offered by CZ. Both sites sit low enough to not distract you, however do help with indexing.  No substitute for practicing your presentation and muscle memory though. With that in mind I’m going to keep them installed for the time being. 

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Going to try out cowitnessing. But mainly because I dont want to take irons off and put then on all the time. I dont really care for cowitnessing, esp for competition, but it wont hurt to try!

 

P.s. sights

Edited by blueorison
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13 hours ago, rocket99 said:

abda4902572e75c22b5c2f975e5e8c6f.jpg

Here is the SC job I did on my OR version, I am shooting this one until I get my milled slide back from Cajun


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Looks like you gritted your backstrap in place for good. Did you use the liquid epoxy or the putty stick type or both for the grip job? Thanks. Grip looks good. 

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IMO grit on the front and rear backstraps makes minor grip adjustments difficult during the initial phase of the draw and also interfere with rotating the pistol in your hand to drop a magazine.

 

Some love it, but that's the reason why I only added aggressive stippling on the front and back of mine.

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5 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:

IMO grit on the front and rear backstraps makes minor grip adjustments difficult during the initial phase of the draw and also interfere with rotating the pistol in your hand to drop a magazine.

 

Some love it, but that's the reason why I only added aggressive stippling on the front and back of mine.

 

I have this exact same viewpoint... I thought I was alone on it! Like many things, it isn't a good/bad but more pros/cons. I think some added grippiness is good, but as you ramp up, you lose the ability to easily shift your grip when needed. 

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Looks like you gritted your backstrap in place for good. Did you use the liquid epoxy or the putty stick type or both for the grip job? Thanks. Grip looks good. 


I used the old JB Weld, 2 part 24 hour stuff


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