jmorris Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) I have built a number of my own but it takes some ability and machinery to do so. A recent thread over at Castboolits http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator peaked my interest once I learned how cheap 3D printers have become. 20 years ago they could build wax models and were very expensive, enough I really didn’t pay them much attention in recent years but in the thread above Hatch linked (also provided me post purchase support, thanks again if you happen to read this) to the Anet A8 3D printer that was just under $160 shipped. This isn’t the link he posted but it’s the same printer. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-Leveling-DIY-3D-Printer-Upgraded-Quality-High-Printing-Precision-Desktop-Prusa-I3-3D-Printer/187752683?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5957&adid=22222222227064219129&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=t&wl3=169624311263&wl4=pla-299485524634&wl5=1026339&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=114220812&wl11=online&wl12=187752683&wl13=&veh=sem It’s a kit that has to be assembled, takes a few hours, hardest part for me was getting all of the protective paper off all the parts. The subject of the thread though comes from AmmoMike83’s work. He has designed, a bullet collator that the files can be downloaded for free and printed off. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314 There are a number of parts that you will need and he has a number of different configurations in the files as well. Like base down for loading or nose down to feed sizing machines. He is also very helpful and has created new design files for users with specific needs. There is a little learning curve (the plastic doesn’t cost much) and the process is very slow from a machinist perspective (the part is built in layers .1mm thick) but in the end you get a bullet collator(s) with very little effort, created by AmmoMike83 and equipment you can set on your wife’s dining room table. FWIW the thing runs pretty much all the time making all sorts of things, thingiverse.com has an incredible amount of files there people have created and distribute for free. Edited April 3, 2018 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 I didn't know they were that cheap either. Wow. How's the quality so far? I'm guessing pretty suitable for a hobbyist's first printer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smeeg Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 So $160 for the printer how much for the other parts motor,spring,plastic ect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 $25 for the motor. https://www.doublealpha.biz/mr-bulletfeeder-motor $12 for the spring. https://www.doublealpha.biz/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor $15 for a 2.2 lb spool of the filament. http://www.microcenter.com/product/485634/175mm_Black_PLA_3D_Printer_Filament_-_1kg_Spool_22_lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caspian guy Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Did you have any issues with the kit quality of the printer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Buy once, cry once. I have a pair of genuine Prusa MK2s printers. https://www.prusa3d.com/ If you hate the Lee Loadmaster, buying a cheap 3d printer is not for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, caspian guy said: Did you have any issues with the kit quality of the printer? I thought the instructions kind of sucked. Then, after I built it from the printed leaflet, I loaded my first file to print onto the included SD card and realized the instructions were in a file on it. I added a glass tile to the bed but masking tape works too. I wouldn’t put it in the same category as my other CNC equipment but am pretty impressed anyone can make something with the same capabilities at the price point. I’ve seen them in the many thousands of dollars price range, so I have no doubt there are better choices. I just wasn’t going to spend the money for just playing around and it can turn out a functional collator. Edited April 4, 2018 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbinpa59 Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 Neat idea but think I'd stay old school and go with the cutting board / drill Press / router table then again I've got all those in the shop?, And no real size limits unlike the bed of a printer has But it's still a intriguing thought? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted April 6, 2018 Author Share Posted April 6, 2018 (edited) On 4/4/2018 at 1:23 PM, Brassaholic13 said: Buy once, cry once. I have a pair of genuine Prusa MK2s printers. https://www.prusa3d.com/ If you hate the Lee Loadmaster, buying a cheap 3d printer is not for you. Just clicked on your link, that looks very similar to the Anet 8, what does it do different/better for the extra $440? Edited April 6, 2018 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 41 minutes ago, jmorris said: Just clicked on your link, that looks very similar to the Anet 8, what does it do different/better for the extra $440? No idea, I didn't buy something to tinker with, or a facsimile thereof. As such, I have no experience with the A8, other than to see people constantly asking for help with it on the Facebook 3d printing groups. I've had my MK2 Prusas, upgraded to MK2S specs now for almost two years. No issues. I slice the models I want to print, load them onto the memory card, and hit print. Prints come out dimensionally accurate every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted April 6, 2018 Author Share Posted April 6, 2018 No issues. I slice the models I want to print, load them onto the memory card, and hit print. Prints come out dimensionally accurate every time. Sounds the same. I remember 21 years ago when the wax model 3D printers were becoming available they were very expensive and made less useful parts. Pretty neat they can make them so cheap now. It will be cool if I live long enough for the metal 3D printers to become affordable. Would be a real game changer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 3 hours ago, jmorris said: It will be cool if I live long enough for the metal 3D printers to become affordable. Would be a real game changer. My Prusa can print metal filament. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted April 6, 2018 Author Share Posted April 6, 2018 You are saying a $600 3D printer can print something like the video I linked? Tell me more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caspian guy Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 (edited) Yea i think that's more likely to be filament with metal particles in it with plastic as a binder rather than metal, kinda like the "wood" and "carbon fiber" filament you see(anything that would actually print metal using a filament would have a hot end that looked a lot more like a mig welder i am guessing) i think the above was printed with a direct laser sintering/melting process from powdered metal. Edited April 6, 2018 by caspian guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Seems to hold up so far, however, don't think the barrel was printed. That would be the real test ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 10 hours ago, jmorris said: You are saying a $600 3D printer can print something like the video I linked? Tell me more! Right off their page. I've printed the carbon fiber filament, and it's some damn tough stuff. I'd use it to print a polymer frame if I had the need/desire. Supported materials – PLA, ABS, PET, HIPS, Flex PP, Ninjaflex, Laywood, Laybrick, Nylon, Bamboofill, Bronzefill, ASA, T-Glase, Carbon-fibers enhanced filaments, Polycarbonates... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted April 7, 2018 Author Share Posted April 7, 2018 I don’t see any metals in “supported materials”. The steelfill filament, that is metal particles in PLA would be as close to metal as a metallic paint job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 On 4/7/2018 at 7:49 AM, jmorris said: I don’t see any metals in “supported materials”. The steelfill filament, that is metal particles in PLA would be as close to metal as a metallic paint job. Bronze isn't a metal? Hmm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 (edited) Quote With a bit of sanding and polishing the bronze particles will start to shine and shimmer unlike any 3d printing filament you have seen As I said above, might be as much metal as a metallic paint job. You could find out how much bronze was embedded in the PLA if you took a known length of it and weighed it. It would be a small fraction of what the same length and diameter of actual bronze wire would weigh. Edited April 13, 2018 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 ah the marvelous things the're doing with plastics nowadays tom lerhr I am still reading about the bullet collator. the nose down version seems easy. for round noses any way. at some point some kind of logic circuit may be needed for the wad cutters. and I can imagine that carbon fiber can do a lot to reinforce a thermo plastic metal powder will not add to tensile strength. miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmantoo Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 6 hours ago, Miranda said: metal powder will not add to tensile strength. 1 I'm only a very newb at this, but that's my take, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 at some point some kind of logic circuit may be needed for the wad cutters. In the castboolits thread I linked to in the OP he has a video of the design he made for hollow base wadcutters. Regular wadcutters would be easy because it doesn’t matter what end is down as both are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azwinter Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Any chance someone would print one of these for me? I would gladly cover material, cost and shipping. Thanks Chad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorfish Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 I got inspired by Jmorris and the others on the Cast Boolits forum and printed myself a dedicated nose down collator. Works great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExStreetWalker Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 On 4/15/2018 at 4:22 PM, jmorris said: In the castboolits thread I linked to in the OP he has a video of the design he made for hollow base wadcutters. Regular wadcutters would be easy because it doesn’t matter what end is down as both are the same. Most wadcutters are button nose so it does make a difference. I prefer the actual beer can wadcutters where it doesn't make a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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