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Help with hammer kit selection


MrRick

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Trying to select the correct hammer kit for my Shadow 2. I already have all the springs and extended firing pin installed so just need hammer/sear kit and T3 disconnector to complete CHW S-2 kit 

https://cajungunworks.com/product/75800-shadow-s-2-kit/

 

Not a 100% sure if it uses this Hammer kit

https://cajungunworks.com/product/race-hammer-kit/

 

or this one

https://cajungunworks.com/product/production-legal-drop-in-hammer-kit/

 

I believe it uses the RHK kit. If it does, do I need the spacer?

 

Thanks

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16 hours ago, MrRick said:

Trying to select the correct hammer kit for my Shadow 2. I already have all the springs and extended firing pin installed so just need hammer/sear kit and T3 disconnector to complete CHW S-2 kit 

https://cajungunworks.com/product/75800-shadow-s-2-kit/

 

Not a 100% sure if it uses this Hammer kit

https://cajungunworks.com/product/race-hammer-kit/

 

or this one

https://cajungunworks.com/product/production-legal-drop-in-hammer-kit/

 

I believe it uses the RHK kit. If it does, do I need the spacer?

 

Thanks

It uses the Race Hammer Kit. The spacer takes the place of the nonexistent FPB.

Edited by SlvrDragon50
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The CZ production race hammer is every bit as good if not better than the CGW. I have a CGW race hammer with a T3 and it has more creep and the same take up as a CZ production race hammer and pre-b disco from CZC (I have both). The CZ hammer is full width for a Shadow instead of narrow for a CZ 75B. Frankly, I'm not all that impressed with the CGW race hammers. 

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1 hour ago, 858 said:

The CZ production race hammer is every bit as good if not better than the CGW. I have a CGW race hammer with a T3 and it has more creep and the same take up as a CZ production race hammer and pre-b disco from CZC (I have both). The CZ hammer is full width for a Shadow instead of narrow for a CZ 75B. Frankly, I'm not all that impressed with the CGW race hammers. 

If you have creep in your CGW Race hammer then it is likely defective and should be replaced. Every CGW hammer I've had has had a crisper break than my NP3 coated CZC hammer. That's not to say that the CZC hammer is bad, but CZC is a smooth pull while the CGWs are a clean break, especially with a tight fitting T3.

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The cz factory comp hammer is a good hammer but has inferior hook design. I have had to send 2 different comp hammers to CGW to be recut at a different angle.

 

I personally like the look of the CZ comp hammer more then the CGW hammer but the machining is much better on the CGW hammer over the CZ factory comp hammer.

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4 hours ago, SlvrDragon50 said:

If you have creep in your CGW Race hammer then it is likely defective and should be replaced. Every CGW hammer I've had has had a crisper break than my NP3 coated CZC hammer. That's not to say that the CZC hammer is bad, but CZC is a smooth pull while the CGWs are a clean break, especially with a tight fitting T3.

 

I have 5k rounds on it, it's not defective. Short of hand cutting hammer hooks and the sear nose, you're entirely reliant on the component tolerance for performance. Some a great, some aren't. My experience is the CGW is just OK, certainly nothing to dismiss the factory parts over. 

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1 hour ago, 858 said:

 

I have 5k rounds on it, it's not defective. Short of hand cutting hammer hooks and the sear nose, you're entirely reliant on the component tolerance for performance. Some a great, some aren't. My experience is the CGW is just OK, certainly nothing to dismiss the factory parts over. 

If you have creep, something is definitely wrong with the hammer hooks. I'm sure if you talked to Scott/David at CGW they would replace the hammer for you. They were advertised as zero-creep, and they will make sure that is what you get. 5k rounds are not enough to cause a significant amount of creep. I'm sure I've dryfired my hammer way more than that, and it feels the same as day 1.

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I've replaced the factory hammers on two CZ pistols with the Cajun Gun Works race hammers and adjustable sears.  Amazing improvement vs. the factory hammer.

 

Somethings not right about either the hammer you bought or with your trigger/trigger bar.  Did you leave the firing pin block in?  I did on one pistol and took it out on another.  With the firing pin block left installed you will feel the trigger sort of bump/stop when the lifter arm starts to lift the firing pin block safety, then stop when the sear has to start moving.  That first little bump of the lifter arm to the sear movement isn't creep.

 

 

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I actually used a SP01 rhk in my TS which already had a great trigger and it was DEFINITELY a good buy!  Not sure how you're getting creep.  I'd agree that yours is defective or something else is wrong.

Mine is my favorite trigger I own now.  It has a very similar feel to my CMC flat trigger on my AR, but lighter.

There are many who sit in a quiet place and try to find creep or grit in a trigger and then judge the trigger based on that.  I'm not saying that what they find isn't real, but if you have to look for the problem and pull the trigger in a different way than you normally would...... Does it really matter?

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